# GoodKit > Honest reviews of tools, sensors, and gear for RV owners, boaters, and DIYers. Tested by people who actually build and install this stuff. Public Ghost content for AI and LLM tooling. This file includes a bounded export of public pages first, then recent public posts. Append `.md` to any post or page URL to get the content in Markdown (for example, `/example-post.md`). ## Pages ### About GoodKit URL: https://www.goodkit.io/about/ Last updated: 2026-08-14T14:05:00.000Z ## Who We Are GoodKit is run by **Braden and Erin** — a family of four cruising the Caribbean aboard our 2009 Dean 441 catamaran, **Yoto**, and traveling the country in our RV. We're builders and full-time gear-testers. Everything we write about, we use. This isn't a content site. It's a notebook. When we install something on Yoto or in the RV, when something breaks, when something works better than expected — that's what gets written here. ## The Crew **Braden** worked in software for years before turning his attention full-time to boat and RV systems. He runs the Victron + Signal K + Home Assistant stack on Yoto, manages 2,600W of solar, the lithium house bank, Starlink, and a custom CAN-bus monitoring system he built on a Raspberry Pi. When you read a Cerbo GX setup guide here, it's because he's wired one and lived with it. **Erin** is the other half of the operation — she handles provisioning, content, and keeps the family running while we cross oceans. The galley reviews, the cooking gear, the family-friendly cruising perspective — that's her voice. The kids handle morale. We're not the only ones writing here. Other contributors — people as passionate about gear as we are — put pieces in the notebook when they have something worth saying. Same rule as the rest of this site: they actually use the gear. ## What We Cover A narrow lane, defended hard: - **Marine electronics** — Victron, Furuno, Raymarine, Signal K, NMEA 2000 - **Connectivity** — Starlink, cellular bonding, marine networking - **Smart automation on 12V** — Shelly, Home Assistant, BLE sensors, Mopeka - **RV systems** — same systems, different vehicle - **Practical liveaboard gear** — fans, fridges, tools that actually survive salt air We don't cover destinations, fishing reports, or general boating lifestyle. Plenty of other sites do that better. ## Our Boat (and RV) Yoto is a 2009 Dean 441 catamaran, \~44 feet, twin Vetus 42hp diesels, Neil Pryde mainsail, 2,600W solar, Dessalator D100 watermaker, three cabins, induction galley, Starlink, Furuno electronics, and a stack of Victron and Raspberry Pi gear we keep adding to. When we're not on the water, we travel in our RV — same systems philosophy applied to a different platform, and the source of most of our RV-focused content. → [Full systems breakdown on the Yoto page](https://www.goodkit.io/the-boat/) ## What We Make and Sell We also run [**Dupree Products**](https://dupreeproducts.com/?ref=goodkit.io) — a marine and RV parts shop where we sell the gear we trust, including our own manufactured valves that have been in production since 1964\. When we link to a product on Dupree, it's because we stock it for the same reason we recommend it. ## Our Review Policy - We don't review things we haven't used - No paid placements - No vendor-supplied units (yet — if that ever changes, we'll disclose it) - If something is good, we say so. If it has problems, we tell you. The Wera Joker review and the Magna Caddy review are examples — both are products we wanted to love but couldn't fully recommend. When we link to a product, some of those links are affiliate links. If you buy through them, we earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. We pick what to recommend first; the affiliate decision comes after. ## Get in Touch Have a question, want to suggest a product, or interested in marine/RV systems consulting? **Email:** braden@goodkit.io **Family blog:** [bradenanderin.com](https://bradenanderin.com/?ref=goodkit.io) **Shop:** [dupreeproducts.com](https://dupreeproducts.com/?ref=goodkit.io) ### Affiliate Disclosure URL: https://www.goodkit.io/affiliate-disclosure/ Last updated: 2026-03-28T16:36:52.000Z ## Affiliate Disclosure GoodKit participates in affiliate programs, including the Amazon Associates program. When you click on product links in our articles and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. This commission helps support the site and allows us to continue reviewing and recommending gear. ## Our Commitment Affiliate relationships never influence our reviews. We only recommend products we have personally used or thoroughly evaluated. If a product has problems, we say so — regardless of whether we earn a commission on it. We will always disclose when an article contains affiliate links. You'll see a disclosure banner at the top of articles that include them. ## Questions? If you have any questions about our affiliate relationships, email us at [braden@goodkit.io](mailto:braden@goodkit.io). ### The Boat URL: https://www.goodkit.io/the-boat/ Last updated: 2026-05-01T16:58:08.000Z ## Yoto **Yoto** is a 2009 Dean 441 catamaran. \~44 feet. We're a family of four, cruising the Caribbean full-time. She's our home, our test platform, and the reason most of what's written here exists. The previous owners were French and named her Yoto. We have no idea what it means. We never could find them. We kept the name. This page is the canonical reference for what's installed on Yoto. When a post says "on Yoto we run the…" — this is what they mean. Everything here is what we actually live with. ## The Boat | | | | -------------- | ------------------------------------------------ | | **Make/Model** | Dean 441 catamaran | | **Year** | 2009 | | **Length** | \~44 feet | | **Engines** | 2x Vetus 42hp diesels | | **Sail** | Neil Pryde mainsail (new) | | **Cabins** | 3 | | **Showers** | 3 | | **Tender** | 10ft AB aluminum inflatable, 20hp Honda outboard | ## Power System This is the part we obsess about most. **Solar:** \~2,600W of panels across the bimini. Enough to fully replenish the bank on most days at anchor and run high-draw appliances (induction cooktop, watermaker) during the day. **Battery bank:** Lithium house bank. **Charge controllers:** Multiple Victron SmartSolar MPPTs sized for the panel layout. **Inverter/charger:** Victron Quattro II handling shore power, generator input, and AC distribution. **Battery monitoring:** Victron SmartShunt 500A as primary monitor, feeding into Cerbo GX → VRM portal for remote monitoring. **Shore power:** 30A inlet with Marinco connector, surge-protected at the panel. → Posts referencing this system: [SmartShunt review](https://www.goodkit.io/best-marine-battery-monitor-victron-smartshunt-500a-review/), [Cerbo GX setup guide](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-cerbo-gx-setup-guide-from-install-to-remote-monitoring/), [Wiring the SmartShunt](https://www.goodkit.io/how-to-wire-a-victron-smartshunt-step-by-step-install-guide/) ## Monitoring & Automation The reason GoodKit exists at all. We've layered three monitoring stacks: **Victron VRM** — manufacturer's cloud dashboard for the entire Victron ecosystem. Solar input, battery state, AC loads, all visible from anywhere. **Signal K + Raspberry Pi** — open-source marine data hub. Pulls in NMEA 2000, NMEA 0183, and AIS data and republishes it in a standard format. Runs on a Pi 4 at the nav station. **Home Assistant + Shelly** — smart 12V control. We use Shelly relays to control lights, fans, and pumps from anywhere on the boat (or remotely). Home Assistant ties everything together — Victron data, Signal K data, tank levels, weather. **Tank monitoring:** Mopeka Pro Check sensors on water and propane tanks, BLE-broadcast to Home Assistant. → Posts: [Shelly on a boat](https://www.goodkit.io/shelly-on-a-boat-cheap-smart-automation-for-12v-marine-systems/), [Home Assistant + Shelly on 12V](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/), [Best RV tank sensors](https://www.goodkit.io/best-rv-tank-monitoring-sensors-2026/) ## Connectivity **Starlink:** One original High Performance dish on the boat (we have a separate dish for our RV). Combined with cellular failover for harbor areas where Starlink obstruction is bad. **Cellular:** Multi-carrier failover via dedicated marine router. **Network:** Boat-wide WiFi, hardwired backbone where it matters (nav station, salon). ## Galley & Living **Refrigeration:** Built-in fridge/freezer + Dometic CFX5 75DZ portable as supplemental. **Cooking:** Induction cooktop, electric counter-top oven, microwave/grill combo, bread machine, instant pot, hot water kettle. **Watermaker:** Dessalator D100, DC-powered, \~30 gallons/hour. **Washer/dryer:** Combo unit. → Posts: [Dometic CFX5 review](https://www.goodkit.io/dometic-cfx5-75dz-review-3-years-on-a-boat/), [Best 12V fridge](https://www.goodkit.io/best-12v-fridge-for-rvs-and-boats-compressor-fridges-compared/) ## Comfort **Fans:** Caframo Sirocco II hardwired in main locations, plus Koonie rechargeable clip-ons for everywhere else. **A/C:** Yes, when on shore power or running the generator. → Posts: [Sirocco II vs Elite](https://www.goodkit.io/caframo-sirocco-ii-vs-sirocco-ii-elite-which-fan-do-you-actually-need/), [Koonie portable fan](https://www.goodkit.io/the-best-portable-fan-for-boats-and-rvs-koonie-review/) ## Navigation & Comms We've upgraded the boat's electronics slowly rather than all at once. The current state: **MFD:** Furuno TZT12F at the helm — replaced the original 2009 Raymarine MFD. **Radar:** Furuno DRSDL+ — replaced the original Raymarine radar. Vendor lock and the lack of a Raymarine upgrade path drove us to Furuno. **Instruments and autopilot:** Still original Raymarine. The autopilot works fine and replacing it isn't a priority. **Software:** TimeZero on the laptop as the primary chart/route planner, integrating with the Furuno MFD. **VHF:** Standard Horizon HX210 handhelds (we keep two — one in the cockpit, one on the dinghy). → Posts: [TimeZero review](https://www.goodkit.io/timezero-review-the-best-integrated-marine-navigation-software-with-some-frustrating-gaps/), [Standard Horizon HX210 review](https://www.goodkit.io/best-handheld-marine-vhf-radio-standard-horizon-hx210-vs-icom-ic-m25/) ## What's Next Eventually we'll replace the remaining Raymarine instruments and autopilot — but the autopilot is reliable and the instruments work, so we're in no hurry. If you're working on something similar and want to compare notes, [get in touch](mailto:braden@goodkit.io). --- Want to follow our cruising adventures (less technical, more family/destination)? That happens at [bradenanderin.com](https://bradenanderin.com/?ref=goodkit.io). ### The RV URL: https://www.goodkit.io/the-rv/ Last updated: 2026-05-01T17:22:04.000Z ## The Wanderlodge When we're not on the water, we're on the road. Our RV is a **1990 Blue Bird Wanderlodge Wide Body**, 40 feet long, powered by a Detroit Diesel 8V92TA. It's a classic motorcoach from the era when Blue Bird's coach division built them on the same chassis as their school buses — overbuilt, mechanical, and about as far from a modern fiberglass RV as you can get. We've taken it from Minnesota to Yellowstone, the Grand Canyon, Zion, the Pacific Coast, Texas, Tennessee, and most points in between. It's been to a Wanderlodge owners rally in Casper, Wyoming for the 2017 solar eclipse, alongside 100+ other coaches. It's our home when we're not on Yoto. ## The Coach | | | | ----------------- | ------------------------------- | | **Make/Model** | Blue Bird Wanderlodge Wide Body | | **Year** | 1990 | | **Length** | 40 feet | | **Engine** | Detroit Diesel 8V92TA | | **Transmission** | Allison | | **Generator** | Kohler 12.5kW | | **Fuel capacity** | 300 gallons (diesel) | ## Philosophy The Wanderlodge is the **opposite** of Yoto in one important way: she's much less automated. No Cerbo GX, no Home Assistant, no Signal K, no MQTT. The dashboard gauges are the dashboard gauges. When something needs attention, you walk over and look at it. This is by design. A 35-year-old coach has earned the right to be left alone. We've upgraded what needed upgrading and left the rest mechanical. It works. ## Power System **Inverter** — installed, providing 110V from the house bank for the appliances that need it. **Battery bank** — currently lead-acid. **A lithium upgrade is on the to-do list** and will be the next major project. When we do it, you'll see a build post here. **Solar** — minimal compared to Yoto. The Wanderlodge spends most of its time at full hookups or running the generator. Solar makes more sense on a boat anchored for weeks at a time than on a coach that's plugged in at an RV park. **Generator** — Kohler 12.5kW diesel, sharing the 300-gallon main fuel tank. For boondocking it does the heavy lifting. ## Connectivity **Starlink** — Standard residential dish dedicated to the RV (separate from the dish on Yoto). **Cellular backup** — Teltonika router with cellular failover. When Starlink loses signal in the trees, cellular picks up. This is a much simpler stack than the boat — we don't run multi-WAN bonding or anything fancy. The RV moves between locations with reliable cellular, and Starlink handles the rest. ## Living Systems **Refrigeration** — RV propane absorption fridge. Runs on 110V when on shore power, propane when boondocking. Not as efficient as a 12V compressor fridge but reliable for what it is. **Cooking** — Propane range and oven. Same logic as the fridge — when you have a 35-year-old coach with propane infrastructure already plumbed, you don't rip it out for induction. **Holding tanks** — 105 gallons black, 105 gallons gray. Substantial capacity for a coach this size, which means longer between dump runs. **Waste valves** — This is where it gets interesting. ## The Twis-Loc Story Our 1990 Wanderlodge came from the factory with **Dupree Twis-Loc Power Valves** on both the black and gray waste tanks. Those valves are still on the coach. **Same valves. 35 years. No replacements.** We've replaced the seals a couple of times — five-minute job each time, two screws, drop in a new $25 seal — but the valve bodies themselves are original. This isn't marketing. It's our actual coach. The Twis-Loc was designed in 1964 to outlast the rig, and ours has held up that promise for three and a half decades. When we wrote [why the Twis-Loc outlasts everything else](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-waste-valves-why-the-twis-loc-outlasts-everything-else/), this Wanderlodge is the coach we're talking about. → [Twis-Loc valves at Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/collections/all-valves?ref=goodkit.io) ## Where We Go The RV is for North American travel — national parks, family in Minnesota and Tennessee, road trips with the kids when school's not in session. The boat doesn't move very fast and the world is big, so the RV fills in the gaps. Highlights from past trips: Glacier, Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, Zion, Yosemite, the Redwoods, Arches, Canyonlands, the Pacific Coast Highway. Many of them documented in detail at [bradenanderin.com](https://www.bradenanderin.com/tag/the-bus/?ref=goodkit.io). ## Why Not Modernize It Like Yoto? We've thought about it. We could install a Cerbo, run Home Assistant, automate the lights, monitor everything from VRM. We probably will when we do the lithium upgrade — it makes too much sense not to add a SmartShunt at minimum. But part of the appeal of a 1990 Wanderlodge is that it's a 1990 Wanderlodge. The Detroit Diesel doesn't need a CAN bus to run. The aluminum body doesn't have wood rot. The chassis was designed to last a million miles. There's something refreshing about getting in, turning a key, and driving — without checking a dashboard on your phone first. Yoto is the technology project. The Wanderlodge is the road trip. --- Want to follow our family travel adventures (less technical, more destination-focused)? That happens at [bradenanderin.com](https://bradenanderin.com/?ref=goodkit.io). ### Calculators & Resources URL: https://www.goodkit.io/tools/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T16:14:58.000Z Free, accurate calculators built around the standards marine surveyors and competent boat builders actually reference — primarily ABYC E-11\. We use these on Yoto. They don't track you, they don't gate behind email signups, and they don't pretend automotive wire is okay for boats. ## Electrical Calculators ### [Marine Wire Gauge Calculator (ABYC E-11)](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-wire-gauge-calculator-abyc-e-11/) Pick the right AWG for any DC circuit on your boat. Handles voltage drop and ampacity in one calculation, supports 12V/24V/32V/48V systems, and tells you which constraint actually drove the answer (almost always voltage drop, not ampacity). ### [Marine Fuse Sizing Calculator (ABYC E-11)](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-fuse-sizing-calculator-abyc-e-11/) Sizes the right fuse for any load — continuous, intermittent, motor, or inverter — using ABYC's 125%/156% rules. Optional wire-size check warns you if the recommended fuse can't be safely protected by the wire you've run. Includes Class T recommendations for lithium banks. ### [Battery Bank Sizing Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-battery-bank-sizing-calculator/) Plug in daily Wh consumption, days of autonomy, and battery chemistry. Get the right bank size in Ah at your chosen system voltage. Handles LiFePO4, AGM, gel, and flooded lead-acid with the right depth-of-discharge for each chemistry. ### [Solar Sizing Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-solar-sizing-calculator/) Daily energy need + peak sun hours + realistic loss factors → recommended panel wattage. Tuned to what we actually see on Yoto in the tropics, with honest derating for marine reality (shading, MPPT efficiency, panel temperature). ## Other Tools We Recommend Tools we didn't build but use ourselves and trust enough to send you to: ### [Catamaran Haul Out Map](https://thecruisersco.com/catamaran-haul-out-map/?ref=goodkit.io) Interactive map of every boat yard on the US East Coast, Gulf Coast, Bahamas, and Caribbean that can actually haul a wide-beam catamaran. Filterable by beam, mast height, and displacement. Built by The Cruisers Company. If you have a cat over 18 feet wide, this saves you hours of phone calls — most travel lifts can't fit you, and this tool tells you which ones can before you arrive. ## Coming Soon - **Voltage drop reverse calculator** — pick a wire size, see actual drop at a given current and length ## Why These Exist Most marine calculators online are wrong, gated behind ads, or quietly using automotive standards instead of marine ones. We built ours because we needed them and couldn't trust what was out there. If you find a bug or want a calculator built, email **braden@goodkit.io**. ## About the Standards ABYC E-11 ("AC and DC Electrical Systems on Boats") is the rule book the marine industry follows for boat electrical work. It's what surveyors check, what insurance companies expect, and what ABS, Lloyd's, and ABYC-certified technicians are trained on. These calculators reference E-11 directly for resistance values, ampacity tables, voltage drop limits, and overcurrent protection sizing. For RV applications, the relevant standards differ (NEC Article 551 and RVIA codes) but the underlying physics and many of the practical rules are similar. ### Guides URL: https://www.goodkit.io/guides/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T16:18:25.000Z Practical installation, troubleshooting, and setup guides built from real work on boats and RVs. Choose the system you are working on rather than digging through a chronological list. [**Power & Electrical**Solar, battery monitoring, shunts, and Victron systems](#power-electrical) [**Automation & Monitoring**Home Assistant, Shelly, and useful onboard automations](#automation-monitoring) [**RV Maintenance**Hands-on repairs and seasonal checklists](#rv-maintenance) [**New Technology**What AI and connected systems can actually do today](#new-technology) ## Power & Electrical Build it correctly [![Victron Cerbo GX installation](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/04/cerbo.jpg)](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-cerbo-gx-setup-guide-from-install-to-remote-monitoring/) ### [Victron Cerbo GX: Install to Remote Monitoring](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-cerbo-gx-setup-guide-from-install-to-remote-monitoring/) Connect the system, configure devices, and get reliable remote access through VRM. [Read the guide →](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-cerbo-gx-setup-guide-from-install-to-remote-monitoring/) [![Victron SmartShunt wiring](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/04/smartshunt-product.jpg)](https://www.goodkit.io/how-to-wire-a-victron-smartshunt-step-by-step-install-guide/) ### [How to Wire a Victron SmartShunt](https://www.goodkit.io/how-to-wire-a-victron-smartshunt-step-by-step-install-guide/) The one wiring rule that matters, the common mistakes, and how to verify the finished installation. [Read the guide →](https://www.goodkit.io/how-to-wire-a-victron-smartshunt-step-by-step-install-guide/) [![RV solar system components](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/03/rv_solar-2.png)](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-solar-system-sizing-how-to-calculate-what-you-need/) ### [RV Solar System Sizing](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-solar-system-sizing-how-to-calculate-what-you-need/) Calculate the panels, batteries, and charge controller you need from your actual daily loads. [Read the guide →](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-solar-system-sizing-how-to-calculate-what-you-need/) [![RV battery monitoring dashboard](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/03/bat_monitoring-2.png)](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/) ### [RV Battery Monitoring: What Actually Works](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/) CAN bus, Bluetooth sensors, shunts, and lessons from building a monitoring system. [Read the guide →](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/) ## Automation & Monitoring Make systems quieter [![Home Assistant dashboard for a boat or RV](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/07/ha-hero.png)](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-boat-rv-setup-guide/) ### [Home Assistant on a Boat or RV](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-boat-rv-setup-guide/) Start with the right hardware, build your first automations, and use AI to shorten the setup work. [Start here →](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-boat-rv-setup-guide/) [![Home Assistant and Shelly devices](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/03/shelly-ha-hero.svg)](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/) ### [Home Assistant + Shelly on 12V DC](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/) Wire compact Shelly devices directly into a boat or RV system and control them through Home Assistant. [Read the guide →](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/) [![Battery-powered hot water automation](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/06/Screenshot-2024-08-28-at-12.29.27-AM.png)](https://www.goodkit.io/hot-water-heater-on-battery-power/) ### [Hot Water from Surplus Solar Power](https://www.goodkit.io/hot-water-heater-on-battery-power/) Automatically send excess solar energy into the water heater after the batteries are full. [See the automation →](https://www.goodkit.io/hot-water-heater-on-battery-power/) [![Automated anchor light at sunset](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/06/PXL_20231229_221405374.jpg)](https://www.goodkit.io/anchor-light-automation/) ### [Anchor Light Automation](https://www.goodkit.io/anchor-light-automation/) Switch the anchor light on at sunset and off at sunrise without adding another nightly chore. [See the automation →](https://www.goodkit.io/anchor-light-automation/) ## RV Maintenance Prevent the expensive failures [![RV winterization supplies](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/04/winterization.jpg)](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-winterization-checklist-every-step-to-protect-your-rig/) ### [Complete RV Winterization Checklist](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-winterization-checklist-every-step-to-protect-your-rig/) Protect the water system, batteries, exterior, interior, and waste system before freezing weather. [Use the checklist →](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-winterization-checklist-every-step-to-protect-your-rig/) [![RV waste valve replacement](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/03/rv_waste-1.png)](https://www.goodkit.io/how-to-replace-your-rv-waste-valve/) ### [How to Replace an RV Waste Valve](https://www.goodkit.io/how-to-replace-your-rv-waste-valve/) A direct, step-by-step replacement procedure that does not require dropping the tank. [Read the guide →](https://www.goodkit.io/how-to-replace-your-rv-waste-valve/) ## New Technology Useful now, not someday [![AI-assisted marine navigation](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/03/ai_nav-3.png)](https://www.goodkit.io/ai-tools-for-marine-navigation-and-boat-monitoring/) ### [AI for Marine Navigation and Monitoring](https://www.goodkit.io/ai-tools-for-marine-navigation-and-boat-monitoring/) Weather routing, engine-health prediction, and monitoring tools that are already practical onboard. [See what works →](https://www.goodkit.io/ai-tools-for-marine-navigation-and-boat-monitoring/) [![AI tools for RV maintenance](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/03/ai_maint-2.png)](https://www.goodkit.io/how-ai-is-changing-rv-maintenance-and-monitoring/) ### [AI for RV Maintenance and Monitoring](https://www.goodkit.io/how-ai-is-changing-rv-maintenance-and-monitoring/) Separate useful predictive maintenance and connected controls from the current marketing hype. [See what is real →](https://www.goodkit.io/how-ai-is-changing-rv-maintenance-and-monitoring/) ## Posts ### Treatzall Review: The Holding Tank Treatment Tour Buses Buy by the Case URL: https://www.goodkit.io/treatzall-review-the-holding-tank-treatment-tour-buses-buy-by-the-case/ Last updated: 2026-08-14T14:02:38.000Z **Disclosure:** We own Dupree Products, which makes Treatzall. We used it for years before we bought the company. That is the point of this review, not a footnote. Holding tank treatments are a crowded aisle of blue liquids, perfume bombs, and formaldehyde leftovers. Most of them exist to make the toilet smell like something else. Treatzall exists to make the tank stop smelling like a tank. We have used it since before Dupree was ours. Entertainer coaches buy it by the case for the same reason: no touring band wants to smell sewer. It has been around since the 1980s, it still has a following that hunts it down, and the job is simple. Liquefy the waste. Kill the odor. Don't cake in the toilet. Don't perfume the coach. ## What it actually is ![Treatzall holding tank treatment jar, filled with small white balls](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/08/treatzall-holding-tank-treatment.jpg) Treatzall is small balls, not powder. One scoop treats 50 gallons. Treatzall comes as small balls. One scoop treats 50 gallons. A single container does that 40 times, which is why a $40 jar lasts a weekend warrior a long time and why people who live in the rig buy the case. The formula is odorless and colorless. No dyes, no perfumes, no formaldehyde. It is biodegradable and labeled as septic-safe. The thing people mention first, once they have used it, is that it does not clump. A lot of tank treatments cake in the bowl or sit in a lump at the bottom of the tank. This one doesn't. ## Why entertainer coaches care A bus that hauls a band is a small house with a sewer on board, parked behind venues, lived in by people who cannot just open the windows and hope. If the black tank smells, the whole coach smells. There is no "we'll dump in the morning" when you have a load-in at 2 p.m. and six people sleeping on top of the tank. Those coaches buy Treatzall by the case because it works. Not because the label is pretty. Not because it smells like cherry. Because the alternative is a bus that stinks, and that is not a professional option. That is the same test we care about on the Wanderlodge and anywhere else we live with a holding tank. If it keeps a tour bus honest, it will keep a family coach honest. ## What we use it for Black tank, every dump cycle. One scoop in the toilet with water, then flush twice so it actually gets into the tank instead of sitting in the bowl. Same scoop down a sink or shower drain for the grey tank, with plenty of water behind it. The goal is not a scented bathroom. The goal is opening the valve later and not getting hit with a wall of sewer, and not fishing a cake of treatment out of the toilet. It also helps with tank buildup over time. Those balls liquefy waste, which is a maintenance job, not a cover-up job. That matters more the longer you live with the same tanks. ## What it is not It is not a perfume. If you want the blue stuff that makes the bathroom smell like a gas station urinal cake, this will disappoint you. We consider that a feature. It is not new, and it is not a secret lab formula we invented last year. Dupree added Treatzall in the 1980s. For a long time it was annoying to find, which is why the people who used it tended to stay with it and order in bulk. We sell it on Dupree and it is on Amazon now. That part is new. The product is not. And yes: we own it. Read the rest of this site. We also tell you when a Wera wrench slips and when a "marine" speaker falls apart. We used Treatzall when it was someone else's product. We kept using it. Then we bought the company. That sequence is the review. ## How to buy it A jar is $39.99\. A case of 12 is $350, which is how the coaches that actually live on the road buy it. Three or more jars on the Dupree site discount 10%. If you already run a [Twis-Loc](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-waste-valves-why-the-twis-loc-outlasts-everything-else/), this is the other half of not thinking about the sewer: a valve you service instead of replace, and a treatment that does not cake or perfume. ## The bottom line Treatzall does one job and has done it for forty years. It liquefies waste, it keeps the odor down, it does not cake, and it does not try to smell like candy. Entertainer coaches buy it by the case because a stinking bus is not optional. We used it before we owned Dupree for the same reason. If you camp two weekends a year and dump at the gate, almost anything will muddle through. If you live in the rig, or you haul people who will notice, this is the one we put in the tank. What we liked - We used it for years before we owned the company - Liquefies waste instead of covering the smell with perfume - Does not cake in the toilet or the tank - No dyes, no perfume, no formaldehyde - One scoop per 50 gallons; a jar lasts, a case is how full-timers buy it - The entertainer-coach test: nobody on that bus wants sewer What to know - We own Dupree Products, which makes Treatzall - No perfume, no blue dye -- that is the design, not a missing feature - Small balls and a scoop, not a drop-in pod ## Where to buy Treatzall is made by Dupree Products. We also sell it on Amazon. - [Treatzall on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/treatzall%C2%AE?ref=goodkit.io) — jars and case of 12 - [Treatzall on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P93D8W8?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) The verdict It works. That's why the coaches buy it by the case. odor control9 / 10 liquefying9 / 10 mess (caking)10 / 10 value8 / 10 ### NOCO GENIUS10 Review: A Maintainer That Can Actually Charge URL: https://www.goodkit.io/noco-genius10-review-a-maintainer-that-can-actually-charge/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T21:11:57.000Z The NOCO GENIUS10 occupies a useful middle ground. It is small enough to mount permanently on a garage shelf and leave connected as a battery maintainer, but its 10-amp output makes it a real charger—not merely a trickle charger. We use ours to maintain a car battery while we are away on extended trips. We have also used it to charge many dead batteries, including batteries that ordinary smart chargers may not recognize. It is compact, well built, easy to mount, and versatile enough to handle the common battery types we encounter. ## More than a maintainer A low-output maintainer is fine for keeping a healthy battery topped up, but it can take a very long time to restore a discharged automotive or marine battery. The GENIUS10 supplies up to 10 amps, so it can perform both jobs. That is why it works well in our garage. It can remain connected to the car during a long absence and maintain the battery after charging is complete, but it also has enough output to be useful when we bring it another battery that is already dead. ## It can start charging an extremely dead battery Many automatic chargers first look for battery voltage before they begin. If a battery is deeply discharged, the charger may decide that nothing is connected and refuse to start. The GENIUS10 has Force Mode for that situation. NOCO says it normally detects batteries down to 1 volt and can manually begin charging batteries below 1 volt with Force Mode. We have used this charger on many dead batteries, and that ability is one of the biggest reasons we value it. Force Mode is a manual override, not a routine setting. Its normal safety protections are disabled while the mode is active, so polarity and battery voltage must be confirmed before using it. A battery that became extremely discharged may also be damaged and should not be assumed healthy simply because it accepts a charge. ## Useful modes without needing several chargers The GENIUS10 supports both 6-volt and 12-volt batteries. Its dedicated modes cover conventional lead-acid batteries, AGM batteries, and 12-volt lithium-ion batteries—including LiFePO4 batteries equipped with a battery-management system. It also offers 12V Repair Mode for certain old or sulfated lead-acid batteries and a 12V Supply Mode. That range makes the charger useful across cars, boats, RVs, powersports equipment, and older 6-volt equipment without keeping several specialized chargers on the shelf. ## Easy to install and easy to read The unit is compact, and the included mounting strap made it easy to secure ours to shelving in the garage. The charging cables are long enough that the charger does not need to sit on top of the battery or hang awkwardly from the vehicle. ![Our NOCO GENIUS10 secured to garage shelving with its included mounting strap](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/08/noco_mount.jpg) Our GENIUS10 stays secured to the garage shelving with the included strap, leaving the controls and charge indicators visible. The indicator lights are straightforward. At a glance, we can tell whether the battery is below 25%, moving through 50% or 75%, fully charged, or in maintenance mode. That sounds basic, but clear feedback matters on a charger that may remain connected while you walk away and do something else. ## Runs from a standard outlet The GENIUS10 plugs into an ordinary wall outlet. It does not require a dedicated high-current AC circuit, yet it delivers substantially more charging current than a one- or two-amp maintainer. For our use, 10 amps is the practical size: capable of restoring a normal car or boat battery in a reasonable period, but still compact enough to install on a shelf and leave ready to use. ## The bottom line The NOCO GENIUS10 is a very good general-purpose battery charger. It handles the common battery chemistries, works with both 6- and 12-volt systems, has recovered many dead batteries for us, and can stay connected to maintain our car while we travel. Its compact size, long leads, mounting strap, readable charge indicators, and real 10-amp output make it more useful than a basic maintainer without turning it into a bulky shop charger. We recommend it. What we liked - Real 10-amp charging output in a compact unit - Maintains our car battery during extended trips - Force Mode can begin charging extremely discharged batteries - Supports common lead-acid, AGM, and 12V lithium battery types - Works with both 6V and 12V batteries - Long cables and a useful mounting strap - Clear charge-progress and maintenance indicators What to know - Force Mode disables normal safety protections and requires careful polarity and voltage checks - A charger can restore voltage, but it cannot make a physically damaged battery healthy ## Where to buy **Affiliate disclosure:** As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - [NOCO GENIUS10 on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3QT226?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) The verdict A maintainer that can actually charge. versatility10 / 10 dead-battery recovery9 / 10 installation9 / 10 value9 / 10 ### FIXCLIP Review: The Boat Clips That Stay Put and Don't Rust URL: https://www.goodkit.io/fixclip-review-the-boat-clips-that-stay-put-and-dont-rust/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T19:16:14.000Z Ordinary clothes clips do not last long on our boat. They blow off, fall overboard, or eventually rust and leave streaks down the boat. FIXCLIP takes a different approach: a large all-plastic clip that closes around the rail and locks in place. They work extremely well on our round boat rails. They grip both our thicker and thinner rails securely, stay attached when the wind is blowing hard, and have no exposed metal to rust. We like them enough that we plan to buy more. ## They fit both sizes of round rail Our boat has round rails in more than one diameter, and the FIXCLIP works on both. It closes securely around a thicker round rail as well as a thinner one, so we are not limited to using it in one specific location. The fit is particularly useful aboard a boat because railings are often the best available place to hang wet clothes and towels. A clip that only works on a conventional clothesline is much less versatile. ## The lock keeps laundry aboard The clip locks closed instead of relying only on spring pressure. In strong wind, that means the clip remains attached to the rail and the clothing stays on the line rather than blowing away. That security is the main reason we prefer these to ordinary clips. Standard clips can release, slide, or disappear overboard. We have gone through enough of them that their low purchase price stopped feeling like much of an advantage. ## All plastic means no rust streaks The FIXCLIP is plastic, with no exposed metal spring or closure to corrode. Conventional clips eventually rust in the marine environment, and that rust can run down the boat in visible streaks. Aboard a boat, corrosion resistance is not cosmetic. Hardware that lives outside is continually exposed to rain, spray, humidity, and salt. Eliminating the metal also eliminates one common failure point and the cleanup that follows it. ## Bigger and more expensive These clips are larger than a standard clothespin or towel clip, and they cost considerably more. If you only need clips for a backyard clothesline in calm weather, the extra size and expense may be unnecessary. For us, the higher price is justified by how many cheaper clips we have lost or discarded after they rusted. A clip that remains on the rail and lasts longer can be the better value even if it costs more initially. ## Designed for round rails We can recommend the FIXCLIP for round boat rails because that is where we have used it. Product reviews suggest it may not work properly on square rails, but we have not personally tested that configuration. If your railing is square, confirm the fit before buying. ## The bottom line FIXCLIP costs more and takes up more space than an ordinary clip, but it also does the job far better on our boat. It locks securely onto both our thick and thin round rails, holds laundry in strong wind, and cannot create rust streaks because it is all plastic. We have lost and worn out enough conventional clips to appreciate one that stays aboard. We love these and plan to buy more. What we liked - Locks securely onto round rails - Fits both our thick and thin railings - Keeps laundry attached in strong wind - All-plastic construction cannot leave rust streaks - Lasts longer than the conventional clips we have used What we didn't - Larger than a standard clip - Considerably more expensive - May not fit square rails; we have only tested round rails ## Where to buy **Affiliate disclosure:** As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - [FIXCLIP lockable towel clips on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q5VN5DS?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Secure, rustproof, and worth buying again. rail grip10 / 10 wind security10 / 10 marine durability9 / 10 value8 / 10 ### Geedel Rotary Cheese Grater Review: Fast, Stable, and No Power Required URL: https://www.goodkit.io/geedel-rotary-cheese-grater-review-fast-stable-and-no-power-required/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T19:14:08.000Z A rotary grater sounds like one more kitchen gadget until you use one that actually stays put. The suction base is the best part of this Geedel: it holds firmly to the countertop, so you can feed cheese into it and turn the handle without chasing the machine around. It is fast, efficient, and completely manual. That makes it a particularly good fit for a boat, RV, or small kitchen where counter space and electrical appliances are limited. ## Excellent suction makes it work The suction base works extremely well on our countertop. That matters because a hand-cranked grater is only convenient if one hand can operate the handle while the other feeds the cheese. With a weak base, the whole idea falls apart. This one stays planted. Once attached, it feels like a useful appliance rather than a lightweight gadget that needs to be held in place. ## Fast with hard and soft cheeses We have used it with both hard and soft cheeses, and it handles both well. It grates quickly and does not leave food trapped inside the mechanism. You get the speed and consistency of a larger food processor without needing power or giving up the storage space to one. For the job it is designed to do, it is genuinely efficient. This is not a manual tool you tolerate because electricity is unavailable; it is fast enough that we are happy to use it even when power is not an issue. ## Easy blade changes and sensible storage The interchangeable attachments are easy to switch, so changing the type of cut is not a project. The handle and other pieces also come apart, which makes the grater easier to put away than its assembled shape suggests. It does not take up much room in storage. That is important aboard a boat or in an RV, where a single-purpose appliance has to justify every inch it occupies. ## Cleanup is fine Cleanup is okay—not the reason to buy it, but not a reason to avoid it either. The grater comes apart and food does not remain packed inside it, so there are no frustrating hidden clumps to dig out afterward. ## The bottom line The Geedel rotary grater solves a real problem well. It suctions firmly to the counter, works quickly with hard and soft cheeses, wastes little food, changes attachments easily, and breaks down into a reasonably compact package. If you want fast, consistent grating without a powered food processor—especially on a boat, in an RV, or in a small kitchen—it is a very good solution. We recommend it. What we liked - Excellent suction on the countertop - Fast with both hard and soft cheeses - No food left trapped inside - Attachments are easy to change - Comes apart for compact storage - Works without electricity What we didn't - Cleanup is fine, but it is not the standout feature ## Where to buy **Affiliate disclosure:** As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - [Geedel rotary cheese grater on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YBVF4JY?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Fast grating, no power required. suction10 / 10 speed9 / 10 cleanup8 / 10 storage9 / 10 ### HITSTER Review: The Music Game Everyone Wants to Play Again URL: https://www.goodkit.io/hitster-review-the-music-game-everyone-wants-to-play-again/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T19:04:08.000Z We have played HITSTER with adults, kids, mixed-age families, and groups of friends. We have played it in houses and cabins, and late into the night aboard boats. Every one of those groups had a great time. The best endorsement is what happens after the first round: people usually want to play again. Several people we introduced to HITSTER enjoyed it enough to buy their own copy. ## A music game almost anyone can join HITSTER plays songs and asks players to place them in chronological order. The premise is easy to understand, and you do not need to know every artist or remember exact release years to participate. Recognizing a decade, style, or where a song fits relative to the cards already in front of you is often enough. That makes it unusually flexible for a party game. We have played with just adults, just kids, and adults and kids together. It has worked with families and friends across a wide range of ages and musical knowledge. ## It keeps people playing Plenty of games are fun once. HITSTER has repeatedly turned into several games in a row for us. A song starts, someone recognizes it immediately, someone else confidently puts it in the wrong decade, and the conversation and competition build from there. It works well as an organized game, but much of the fun comes from the music itself and the memories it triggers. That social energy is why it has kept working with so many different groups and in so many different settings. ## Great in houses, cabins, and aboard boats The game is easy to bring along and does not need a large dedicated playing area. We have played it at houses and cabins and late into the night on boats. As long as the group can hear the music and has enough table space for the cards, it works. For boat or RV travel, it is exactly the kind of entertainment we like: compact, easy to introduce to guests, and capable of filling an evening without carrying a shelf full of games. ## Spotify Premium makes it better The one real caveat is the music service. HITSTER works much better with a paid Spotify account. You can use a free account, but advertisements and other playback limitations can interrupt the rhythm of the game. That is not a dealbreaker for us, but it is worth knowing before buying. The experience is at its best when songs start cleanly and the game can keep moving without streaming interruptions. ## The bottom line HITSTER is one of the easiest games we have found to recommend to almost anyone. Adults enjoy it, kids enjoy it, mixed groups enjoy it, and people regularly ask for another round. Several of our friends and family members have bought it after playing with us, which says more than any rating could. If you have Spotify Premium and like music at all, this is a fantastic group game. We recommend it. What we liked - Works with adults, kids, families, and friends - People consistently want to play multiple rounds - Easy to bring to houses, cabins, boats, and RVs - Fun across a wide range of ages and musical knowledge - Several people bought their own copy after playing ours What we didn't - The experience is noticeably better with Spotify Premium - Ads and playback limitations can interrupt play with a free account ## Where to buy **Affiliate disclosure:** As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - [HITSTER Music Party Game on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D6WB39QC?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Everyone wants another round. group appeal10 / 10 replayability9 / 10 setup9 / 10 value9 / 10 ### CleverMade Laundry Duffel Backpack Review: Great Capacity, Poor Durability URL: https://www.goodkit.io/clevermade-laundry-duffel-backpack-review-great-capacity-poor-durability/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T19:04:08.000Z The CleverMade Laundry Duffel Backpack LUXE gets two important things right: it holds a lot of laundry, and its backpack-style design makes a large load easier to carry. Unfortunately, the construction is not strong enough for the capacity. When we filled it with real laundry and carried it any meaningful distance, the handles did not hold up and the fabric tore. A 62-liter laundry bag has to be built for the weight that 62 liters of laundry can create. This one is not. ## The capacity is excellent This is a genuinely large laundry bag. If you need to move a substantial load from a boat, RV, apartment, or dorm to a laundromat, the volume is useful. You can consolidate laundry instead of carrying several smaller bags. The ergonomics are also good. The backpack format is a sensible way to move a bulky load, particularly when you need your hands free or have stairs, docks, or longer walks between you and the washing machine. ## The construction cannot support the capacity The problem appears when you use all that space. Loaded with a realistic amount of laundry and carried any distance, the bag's handles do not hold up. The fabric also tears. The build quality simply is not where it needs to be for a bag of this size. That is more than a minor durability complaint. Capacity is the product's main advantage, but using that capacity exposes its main weakness. A large laundry carrier needs reinforced handles, strong attachment points, and fabric capable of supporting a full load repeatedly. ## Fine for light loads misses the point You could avoid overloading the CleverMade by putting less laundry in it. With a light load, it would probably be fine. But then there is little reason to own such a large bag. If you only need to carry a small amount of laundry, a smaller bag will take up less storage space and place less stress on its handles. Buying a 62-liter carrier and deliberately leaving much of it empty is not a satisfying solution to inadequate construction. ## The bottom line The CleverMade Laundry Duffel Backpack LUXE has great capacity and good ergonomics. Those strengths make its poor durability even more disappointing. It is designed to hold a large load, but the handles and fabric do not reliably withstand carrying one. A laundry bag should not require you to choose between using its advertised capacity and preserving the bag. Pass. What we liked - Excellent capacity - Good backpack-style ergonomics - Convenient for consolidating a large laundry load What failed - Handles do not hold up under a full, realistic load - Fabric tears when the bag is loaded and carried - Construction is inadequate for the bag's own capacity - Using it lightly defeats the reason to buy such a large bag ## Identify the product We do not recommend this bag. The link is included so readers can confirm the exact model reviewed. **Affiliate disclosure:** As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - [CleverMade Laundry Duffel Backpack LUXE 62L on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BXVZFZN?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Great capacity. Poor construction. Pass. capacity9 / 10 ergonomics8 / 10 durability2 / 10 value3 / 10 ### Draw-Tite OML 0127 Outboard Motor Lock Review: Rusted Out and Defeated in 3 Minutes URL: https://www.goodkit.io/draw-tite-oml-0127-outboard-motor-lock-review-rusted-out-and-defeated-in-3-minutes/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T18:07:30.000Z ## It failed both jobs a motor lock has We bought the Draw-Tite OML 0127 outboard motor lock on December 11, 2025 for a new outboard. The boat then spent the next six months cruising the Caribbean, with the lock exposed to the salt air and spray that any piece of marine security hardware should be designed to handle. In June 2026, roughly six months later, we tried to remove it. By then, it had failed as marine hardware and as security hardware. *The feature photo shows the reviewed lock still installed on May 31, 2026\. Rust was already forming along its top edge before we attempted to remove it in June.* ## Six months to a seized, rusted lock The lock was completely rusted internally. The key would not operate it normally, and the key itself was made from metal thin and soft enough that it broke off in the cylinder while we tried to unlock it. This was not an old lock on a neglected motor. It had been installed new, on a new outboard, only about six months earlier. A lock sold for an outboard does not get to treat saltwater exposure as an edge case. That is the environment. ## The security test we did not plan With the key broken in the seized cylinder, we had to remove the lock another way. We expected that to mean drilling, cutting, or making a noisy mess with power tools. Instead, we used a screwdriver. The retaining tabs at the openings were easy to bend out of the way. Working from one end to the other, the entire lock came off in roughly three minutes. That matters more than the rust. Corrosion can disable plenty of locks, but a security product should still require meaningful tools, time, and noise to defeat. This one required a common screwdriver and a few minutes. A thief would not need the key, and would not need to attack the lock cylinder at all. ## Why the design does not earn our trust The OML 0127 slides over the outboard's clamp handles so they cannot be turned. The basic idea is sound: cover the fasteners, lock the cover in place, and make removal difficult. But the security of the whole system depends on the ends resisting deformation. In our real removal, they did not. Once the tabs were bent, the lock's cylinder and heavy-looking outer body were irrelevant. The product listing describes a heavy-duty lock intended to provide maximum security. Our example delivered neither durable saltwater operation nor meaningful resistance to a basic hand tool. ## What we would look for instead We have not completed a long-term test of a replacement yet, so we are not naming a new GoodKit-approved lock. The next one should have: - A lock body and critical hardware made from 316 stainless steel - A protected cylinder designed for saltwater exposure - Ends or retainers that cannot simply be bent open with a screwdriver - Anti-drill protection and a more substantial security key - A design that secures the mounting bolts directly, when the outboard installation allows it ## What we are testing next Our next lock will be the [STAZO SmartLock](https://stazo.nl/en/product/stazo-smartlock/?ref=goodkit.io). It takes a different approach: a compact, thick-walled stainless-steel body encloses one of the outboard's clamp screws, with a marine cylinder and key-code card. STAZO says it fits clamp-on outboards up to roughly 35–40 horsepower. It is harder to find in the United States than the OML 0127, although [RowKraft currently lists the SmartLock](https://rowkraft.com/shop/stazo-smartlock/?ref=goodkit.io). We have not tested it yet, so this is not a recommendation. We will review it after it has spent meaningful time on the boat. ## The bottom line What we liked - Simple concept - Fits over common outboard clamp handles - No separate padlock to manage What failed - Severe internal corrosion after about six months in the Caribbean - Flimsy key broke off in the seized cylinder - Retaining tabs bent open with a screwdriver - Removed in roughly three minutes without cutting or drilling The Draw-Tite OML 0127 failed because it could not survive the environment it was sold for. It failed more seriously because, once the key broke, we learned how little security the outer shell actually provided. A motor lock has one purpose: make the outboard meaningfully harder to steal. We would not trust this one to do that. ## Identify the product Amazon identifies the lock we purchased as the Draw-Tite OML 0127\. Fulton also lists the same OML 0127 part number and matching design. We do not recommend it; these links are provided so readers can confirm the product. **Affiliate disclosure:** As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - [Draw-Tite OML 0127 on Amazon](https://amzn.to/4htQOT3?ref=goodkit.io) - [Fulton OML 0127 — official product page](https://www.fultonperformance.com/product/oml-0127%5Foutboard-motor-lock?ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Failed in six months. Pass. saltwater durability1 / 10 lock and key1 / 10 theft resistance2 / 10 value1 / 10 ### Oyster Tempo Review: The Best-Looking Cooler Ever Made URL: https://www.goodkit.io/oyster-tempo-cooler-review/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T21:30:39.000Z We don't usually care what a cooler looks like. A cooler's job is to be cold, stay shut, and survive being stood on. But the Oyster Tempo made us care. It's a $500-plus vacuum-insulated aluminum box, and without fail, the first thing anyone says at the dinghy dock is some version of: "Wait — that's a cooler?" It is. And it's the best-looking one ever made — brushed aluminum, machined latches, a lid that sits perfectly flush. It looks less like camping gear and more like something that escaped a design museum. We love it. We also can't, in good conscience, just tell you to buy one. This one's complicated, so let's walk through the good, the bad, and the expensive. ## A masterclass in industrial design Get the obvious out of the way: it's breathtaking. Next to the Tempo, high-end rotomolded coolers look like oversized toy chests. If aesthetic cohesion in your kit matters to you at all, nothing else in the cooler world is in the same conversation. ## It actually performs It's not just eye candy. The double-wall vacuum insulation is the real deal: because it doesn't need thick foam walls, the Tempo holds temperature better than any traditional cooler we've tested — Yeti and RTIC included — from a body half as thick. That also means far more interior volume per exterior inch than any rotomolded box. Oyster markets it as a "no ice necessary" cooler, built around frozen packs. We wouldn't go that far for a multi-day heatwave, but loaded with pre-chilled provisions it kept things cold through three-day passages without complaint. On raw performance, it pulls its weight. ## The real-world quirks A season aboard turned up two head-scratchers: - **No drain plug.** You'll end up tossing real ice in eventually — it's human nature — and when it melts, the only way to empty the water is to pick the whole cooler up and pour. Minor on paper, genuinely annoying in practice, and a bizarre omission at this price. - **The double-edged lid.** It opens from either side, which is great in a tight cockpit. But because it's fully removable, it detaches easily — convenient right up until it pops off in your hands when you just wanted a soda. You learn to handle it gently. And one more from life aboard: aluminum dents, and stays dented. There's no polymer forgiveness here. On a boat, that first ding is a matter of when. ![Close-up of the red shoulder strap and a small ding in the aluminum shell of our Oyster Tempo cooler](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/08/oyster-tempo-strap-and-ding-v2.jpg) The small ding beside the shoulder strap is the reality of using a thin aluminum cooler aboard a boat. ## The $500 elephant in the room Here's where the recommendation gets tricky. It's simply too expensive for what it is — not by a little, by a lot. It works brilliantly, it insulates better than anything else we own, and nobody needs to spend half a grand to keep a 12-pack cold on a Saturday. > Think of the $40 Yeti tumbler. A $15 cup holds your coffee just as warm — millions of people happily pay the premium for the fit-and-finish anyway. The Tempo is that exact same splurge, except the gap isn't $25\. It's several hundred dollars. ## The bottom line The Oyster Tempo is a brilliant, functional piece of art that happens to keep your food ice-cold — sitting right on the outer edge of what a reasonable person can pay for a cooler. - **If you want a gorgeous object** and the price doesn't make your eyes water: you'll love it. We do. - **If you want the smart-money buy:** a mid-tier rotomolded cooler keeps groceries just as cold at a fraction of the price, with no paranoia about scratches. - **If you're on a boat or in an RV:** a dedicated [12V compressor fridge](https://www.goodkit.io/best-12v-fridge-for-rvs-and-boats-compressor-fridges-compared/) sidesteps the whole ice-and-meltwater problem for similar money. What we liked - Yeti-class ice retention from a body half as thick - More interior volume per exterior inch than any rotomolded box - Machined latches and aluminum shell — a genuinely beautiful object What we didn't - No drain plug — lift and pour - Aluminum dents and stays dented - Not worth it for most people All three are valid. Just know which buyer you are before you hit "add to cart." ## Where to buy - [Oyster Tempo Cooler — official store](https://oystercooler.com/pages/the-tempo-cooler?ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Pretty, pricey. insulation9 / 10 build & looks10 / 10 durability aboard6 / 10 value4 / 10 ### Home Assistant on a Boat or RV: Setup, First Automations, and the AI Shortcut URL: https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-boat-rv-setup-guide/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T16:04:10.000Z Our boat runs on Home Assistant. The anchor light, the water heater, the battery bank — it all lives in one dashboard, with a handful of automations quietly doing jobs we used to do by hand. If you live in an RV or on a boat, Home Assistant is the closest thing there is to hiring a crew member who works for free. It has a reputation for being a tinkerer's rabbit hole. It can be. But getting to genuinely useful is easier than you have heard — especially now, because the hardest part of Home Assistant has quietly disappeared. More on that at the end. ![Home Assistant dashboard on a phone showing battery state of charge, fuel tank gauge, fresh water level, and freezer temperature aboard a boat](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/07/ha_ss1_web.png) Our actual dashboard: state of charge, fuel, water tanks, freezer temperature — and whether anyone is aboard. All running locally on the boat. ## Why Home Assistant (Especially Off-Grid) Home Assistant is free, open source, and — the part that matters for us — it runs entirely locally on a little computer you own. There is no cloud in the loop. At anchor with no cell signal, or boondocking miles from a tower, every automation keeps working. Smart-home products that phone home to a server somewhere are a bad fit for people who are frequently nowhere. Home Assistant doesn't care. It also speaks the weird mix of gear our world runs on: [Shelly relays](https://www.goodkit.io/shelly-on-a-boat-cheap-smart-automation-for-12v-marine-systems/), Victron solar and battery equipment, tank sensors, GPS from your phone. Nothing else ties all of that together. ## The Hardware You Need Any always-on computer works. The usual pick is a Raspberry Pi or the plug-and-play Home Assistant Green box — about $100 either way, and they draw just a few watts, which a house bank won't notice running 24/7\. Ours runs straight off the 12V system; we covered the clean way to power small DC electronics like this in our [Home Assistant and Shelly on 12V DC](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/) guide. ## Install and First Boot Installation is genuinely simple: flash Home Assistant OS onto an SD card or SSD following the instructions at [home-assistant.io](https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/?ref=goodkit.io), plug it in, and open `homeassistant.local:8123` in a browser. Create an account and follow the onboarding. Budget half an hour. The nice surprise: it finds things on its own. Shelly relays on your network show up and ask to be adopted. You are not configuring from a blank page — you are mostly saying yes to things it already discovered. ## The Integrations Worth Adding First - **Shelly** — the workhorse relays that switch your actual circuits. Cheap, small, and they run happily on 12V. Our [Shelly on a boat](https://www.goodkit.io/shelly-on-a-boat-cheap-smart-automation-for-12v-marine-systems/) writeup covers which ones and why. - **Victron** — if you have a Cerbo GX or other GX device, Home Assistant can pull in battery state of charge, solar output, and loads. Our [Cerbo GX setup guide](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-cerbo-gx-setup-guide-from-install-to-remote-monitoring/) gets you to that point. - **The companion app** — put Home Assistant on your phone and you get two big things: notifications from your automations, and presence (the boat knows whether you are aboard). - **Tank sensors** — RVers, if you have Bluetooth senders like the ones in our [tank monitoring roundup](https://www.goodkit.io/best-rv-tank-monitoring-sensors-2026/), they feed straight in. ## First Automations That Earn Their Keep Skip the party tricks. The automations worth building are the ones that delete a recurring chore or catch a problem while it is still small. These are the ones we actually run: 1. **Anchor light at sunset.** On at sunset, off at sunrise, never touched again. Legal every night without thinking about it. We wrote up the whole thing in [our anchor light automation](https://www.goodkit.io/anchor-light-automation/). 2. **Hot water from surplus solar.** When the batteries are full and the sun is still working, dump the extra into the water heater. Free hot showers from electrons that had nowhere else to go — full writeup in [our water heater automation](https://www.goodkit.io/hot-water-heater-on-battery-power/). 3. **Low battery alert.** State of charge crosses a threshold, your phone buzzes — while the fix is still easy. Pairs with real monitoring; see [what actually works for battery monitoring](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/). 4. **Tank warning.** Fresh water low or black tank high — get told before it becomes an emergency instead of after. ![Home Assistant solar power history graph showing daily peaks around 3 kW, with freezer and fridge temperatures](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/07/ha_ss2_web.png) Solar output, day by day — peaks around 3 kW. That midday surplus is exactly what the water-heater automation turns into hot showers. ## The AI Shortcut: Stop Writing YAML Here is the part that changed everything for us. Home Assistant automations are written in a configuration format called YAML, and learning its syntax used to be the wall people quit at. My new favorite way to build automations: don't write them. Describe them. Open your favorite AI — Claude, ChatGPT, whichever — and type what you want in plain English: *“Write a Home Assistant automation that turns on switch.anchor\_light at sunset and off at sunrise.”* Paste the result into a new automation using Edit in YAML. In our experience it works on the first try more often than not, and the fix is one follow-up message when it doesn't. Three habits that make it nearly foolproof: - **Give it your real entity names.** Copy them from Developer Tools → States. “switch.water\_heater” gets a working automation; “my water heater” gets a guess. - **Paste errors back.** If Home Assistant complains, feed the AI the exact error. It fixes its own mistakes. - **Say when it should NOT run.** The conditions are where automations get smart — “only if we're aboard,” “only if the battery is above 80%.” Describe the exceptions and the AI handles the logic. Ask it to explain the YAML it wrote and you will learn the system faster than any tutorial ever taught it. The learning curve didn't get smaller — it got optional. ## The Bottom Line A $100 box, an afternoon, and one automation that deletes a daily chore — that is the honest starting line, and it compounds from there. Start with the anchor light or the water heater, let the AI write it, and enjoy being the kind of boat where things just handle themselves. ## Hardware to get started Home Assistant itself is free. The Green is the simplest plug-and-play option; a Raspberry Pi is the more flexible DIY route. **Affiliate disclosure:** As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - [Home Assistant Green — official product and retailer list](https://www.home-assistant.io/green/?ref=goodkit.io) - [Raspberry Pi 4 kits on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Raspberry+Pi+4+kit&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [High-endurance microSD cards and SSDs on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Home+Assistant+Raspberry+Pi+high+endurance+microSD+SSD&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [12V-to-5V DC converters for a Raspberry Pi on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=12V+to+5V+DC+converter+Raspberry+Pi&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Shelly 1 Mini Gen4 relays on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Shelly+1+Mini+Gen4&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) Parts & tools Raspberry Pi / HA Green\~$100 SD card or SSD\~$15 12V→5V supply\~$10 ### CRKT Squid Review: Nine Years in My Pocket URL: https://www.goodkit.io/crkt-squid-review/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T18:21:31.000Z The CRKT Squid is a small folding knife — a Lucas Burnley design with a stonewashed blade a hair over two inches, a stainless frame lock, and a price that usually lands around $25\. One has been riding in our pocket since 2017\. Nine years later it's still the knife we reach for every day, and it has earned a GoodKit recommendation about as thoroughly as a product can. ## Just the right size The Squid gets the size exactly right: compact enough to drop in a pocket and forget, with enough blade and handle to do real work. The shape is the other half — a short, wide blade and a rounded handle that just feels good. Some knives make you adjust your grip around them. This one you don't think about at all. ## Nine years in The steel is 8Cr13MoV — a budget steel, and we don't care. It holds a working edge, and when it needs a touch-up it sharpens easily. The action has held up the same way: opens smoothly, frame lock still locks up with no wiggle. Nothing has loosened, nothing rattles, nothing needs babying. It just keeps being a knife. ## The knife we pick over the expensive one Here's the part that says the most. We own nicer knives, including a beautifully made Böker Plus Panchenko — similar size, a lot more money. And heading out the door, we grab the Squid every time. When the cheap knife beats the expensive knife in the only test that matters — which one you actually carry — that's the whole review. ## The bottom line Around $25 for nine years of daily service and counting. It joins a running theme around here — like our [plastic calipers](https://www.goodkit.io/cheap-plastic-calipers/), it's the affordable tool that outperforms the fancy alternative in real use. Easy recommendation, and a GoodKit pick. What we liked - Nine years of daily carry and still going - Beats knives three times the price - The everyday-carry knife we actually recommend What we didn't - Budget 8Cr13MoV steel — sharpens easily, just not premium [See the CRKT Squid on Amazon](https://amzn.to/3TDXV14?ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Nine years. Still first pick. build quality9 / 10 edge & blade8 / 10 longevity10 / 10 value10 / 10 ### Mantus M3 Chain Hook Review — The Anchor Bridle Hook That Won't Fall Off URL: https://www.goodkit.io/mantus-m3-chain-hook-review/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T16:06:40.000Z The Mantus M3 chain hook is the piece of hardware connecting your snubber or bridle to your anchor chain — and unlike a plain chain grabber, it actually stays there. We've run this one for two years of daily anchoring, and it's been a massive upgrade over both the standard hook it replaced and the older Mantus we used before it. GoodKit-recommended, no hesitation. ![Catamaran anchored in clear turquoise water with the anchor bridle running down toward the chain hook](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/07/boat-at-anchor-mantus.jpg) Our boat riding to that hook. The bridle lines end at the Mantus, latched to the chain a few feet down. ## What a chain hook is supposed to do (and usually doesn't) When you anchor, you take the load off the windlass by hooking a bridle onto the chain and cleating it off. The hook has one job: hold on. The trouble with a standard grabber is that the moment the chain goes slack — the boat swings, a gust lets off, the bow drops into a trough — the hook can fall right off. Now your bridle is dangling, the load is back on the windlass, and you may not notice until something has already gone wrong. The Mantus solves that. It latches around the link and stays latched even when the chain is completely unloaded. It does not fall off. That's the whole point, and it's worth the price of admission on its own. ## Beefy, secure, built to last It's a serious chunk of stainless — about three pounds of heavy duplex steel. After two years in salt water, ours shows no wear. Against a standard grabber it's not a close call; against the previous Mantus hook it's still a clear step up. If you anchor regularly, this is the upgrade you make once and never think about again. ## The one quirk — and the fix Honest note: it can be sticky to open, mostly after sitting underwater in one anchorage for a long stretch — salt and a little growth stiffen the latch. The fix is easy: squeeze the clamp arms together while you pull the pin. Tension comes off the latch and it pops open without a fight. ## The bottom line At around $129 it isn't cheap, but a chain hook is a safety item — the one thing keeping your bridle on the chain while you sleep, right alongside a good [anchor alarm](https://www.goodkit.io/anchor-alarm-you-can-set-from-shore/). The M3 does that job better than anything we've used, it's built to outlast the boat, and its only downside has a two-second workaround. A GoodKit pick. What we liked - Latches to the chain even when slack — the bridle never falls off - Three pounds of duplex stainless, no wear after two years - A massive upgrade over a standard chain grabber What we didn't - Gets sticky to open after long soaks (squeeze the arms, pull the pin) [See the Mantus M3 chain hook at Mantus Marine](https://www.mantusmarine.com/product/m3-5-16-stainless-steel-chain-hook-copy/?v=28886f13f578&affiliates=296&ref=goodkit.io) The verdict The bridle hook, solved. hold on chain10 / 10 build9 / 10 ease of use7 / 10 value8 / 10 ### SE Sport 200 Hydrofoil: The Fix for a Small Outboard That Won't Plane URL: https://www.goodkit.io/se-sport-200-hydrofoil-review/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T18:17:19.000Z If you have a smaller outboard — roughly 8 to 40 horsepower — that struggles to get a loaded boat on plane, the SE Sport 200 hydrofoil is a cheap fix that genuinely works. We've run it on more than one engine, with it and without it, and the difference in how fast the boat planes (especially loaded) is not subtle. ## What we tested This isn't a spec-sheet review. We've had this foil on multiple outboards and run those boats both ways — foil on, foil off. That back-to-back is the only honest way to know what a hydrofoil actually does. ## What it fixes: getting on plane Without the foil, a small outboard pushing a loaded boat plows — bow up, stern squatting, throttle wide open, taking forever to climb over its own wake. Sometimes it never quite gets there. With the foil, the boat planes noticeably faster and at a lower speed. Add weight — people, gear, fuel — and the gap only grows. A boat that was a struggle to plane just goes. That, plus less bow rise and a steadier ride at low-to-mid speed, is the real benefit. ## The tradeoff: top speed Here's the honest part: the foil feels like it costs a little top-end. That makes sense — you're bolting a wing into the water, and at wide-open throttle that's drag. We wouldn't put it on an engine whose only job is to run flat-out with a light load. But that's not most small-outboard problems. Trading a couple of miles per hour at the top for much better planing is a deal worth taking every time. ## Installation: four holes and a box wrench The foil bolts onto the cavitation plate; you drill four holes to mount it, and those holes are permanent — be sure going in. One practical tip: a couple of the fasteners sit where a ratchet won't go squarely — bring a box-end wrench. We've installed one on a beach with hand tools and the outboard tilted up. No shop, no lift, a few minutes. ## The bottom line For a small outboard that won't plane a loaded boat — or does it slowly and thirstily — this is one of the best cheap upgrades you can make. You give up a little top speed, and on the boats that actually need it, that's not a real cost. Recommended. What we liked - Planes a loaded boat far faster - Tested on multiple small outboards, with and without - Cheap fix for an underpowered dinghy What we didn't - Costs a little top speed - Drill-on install — the four holes are permanent [Check price on Amazon](https://amzn.to/4w4tdg6?ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Worth the trade. time to plane9 / 10 top speed6 / 10 install8 / 10 value8 / 10 ### Helinox Beach Chair Review — Low, Light, and It Goes Everywhere URL: https://www.goodkit.io/helinox-beach-chair-review/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T16:06:44.000Z We've hauled this Helinox Beach Chair just about everywhere — onto the boat, to more beaches than we can count, and once strapped to a pack on a hike out to go salmon fishing. That last one is the tell: this is a beach chair light and small enough that carrying it up a trail didn't feel absurd. ## Yes, it sits low The one caveat first: this chair sits *low*. If you like to pop straight up out of a chair, or your knees are cranky, know that going in. But once you're in it, it's genuinely comfortable — enough give in the seat, mesh that keeps you from sweating through on a hot day. For a beach, a deck, or the water's edge, low is where you want to be anyway. ## Light, and it packs down tiny Under four pounds, folds into a small bag — toss it in the dinghy, a backpack, or the corner of a locker without thinking. The poles are shock-corded like a tent, so setup is a few seconds of snapping the frame together and dropping the seat over the corners. Nice detail: the stuff bag tucks into a pocket on the headrest, so you don't lose it the moment the chair is up. Small thing — but it's the kind that separates gear designed by people who use it from gear that isn't. ## The feet don't sink This is the feature that matters on a beach. The legs splay out to wide, flat feet that sit on top of the sand instead of burying into it — same in soft soil out fishing. Cheap chairs with skinny legs sink until you're tilted and half-buried; this one stays put where you set it. ## Is it worth it? It isn't cheap — Helinox never is. If your chair lives in a trunk and only comes out at tailgates, a $25 folder is fine. But if you actually *carry* your chair — onto a boat, down a beach, up a trail — the mix of weight, pack size, fast setup, and feet that don't sink is worth paying for. We've gotten our money back out of this one many times over. ## The bottom line Comfortable despite sitting low, light enough to forget, quick to set up, and it stays on top of the sand. If you need a chair that travels, this is the one we reach for. Recommended. What we liked - Packs down tiny, sets up in seconds - Feet don’t sink in sand - Survived boat, dozens of beaches, and a salmon trail What we didn't - Sits low — getting up is a commitment - Helinox pricing [Check price on Amazon](https://amzn.to/4f00Ycu?ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Goes everywhere. comfort8 / 10 packability10 / 10 setup speed9 / 10 value7 / 10 ### Cheap Plastic Calipers That Won't Rust — and We Use Constantly URL: https://www.goodkit.io/cheap-plastic-calipers/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T16:06:46.000Z We're always reaching for calipers, and almost never for the precision a machinist set offers. We don't need a thousandth of an inch — we need to know roughly what size something is, right now, without hunting down the good tool or worrying about wrecking it. That's exactly what these cheap plastic calipers are for, and they've quietly become one of the most-used tools on the boat. ## Cheap and rust-proof is the whole point A nice stainless caliper is a precision instrument you baby: keep it dry, keep it in its case, don't drop it. On a boat, "keep it dry" is a losing battle, and a steel caliper left in a damp locker turns into a rusty paperweight. These are plastic. They don't rust, they weigh nothing, and they cost so little that dropping one over the side is a shrug, not a tragedy. So we leave them wherever we actually use them instead of locking them away. ## What we actually measure This is the "what size is that?" tool: - Shower door glass thickness - Line diameter — matching new line or sizing a block or clutch - Cable and wire sizes - Screw, bolt, and nut diameters - Hoses, fittings, dowels, drill bits — anything where "about this big" isn't good enough but machinist-exact is overkill ![Plastic vernier caliper measuring the thickness of a pane of glass](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/06/calipers-glass-thickness.jpg) Checking glass thickness — exactly the kind of quick, who-cares-about-microns job these are made for. ## About the accuracy These will not get you micrometer accuracy. They read to about half a millimeter and the jaws have a little play — a rough-and-ready tool, not a precision instrument. If your work genuinely needs tight tolerances, buy a real steel caliper and baby it. But most measuring isn't that. Most of the time you need to know whether that line is 12mm or 14mm, that screw an M5 or an M6\. For that, half a millimeter is plenty, and these answer in two seconds. ## The bottom line Everyone should have calipers, and for most people most of the time, the right set is a cheap plastic one you don't have to think about. Rust-proof, light, accurate enough, cheap enough to keep a few around. Buy a couple and stash them where you actually measure things. What we liked - Never rust — live happily in a boat toolbag - Cost almost nothing - Accurate enough for the everyday “what size is that?” What we didn't - Not machinist precision — that’s the point [Check price on Amazon](https://amzn.to/4xLyeLC?ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Buy two. accuracy6 / 10 corrosion resistance10 / 10 usefulness9 / 10 value10 / 10 ### Sony XS-MP1611 Marine Speakers: 'Marine Certified' That Didn't Last URL: https://www.goodkit.io/sony-xs-mp1611-marine-speakers/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T16:06:48.000Z We installed a pair of Sony XS-MP1611 marine speakers on the boat in 2023\. They were the easy choice — a name brand, sold specifically as marine speakers, "marine certified" right on the box. When a company the size of Sony puts "marine" on the label, you assume it will shrug off salt air and sun. That's the entire reason you pay for the marine version. ![Sony XS-MP1611 marine speaker mounted in the cockpit of a boat](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/06/sony-speaker-on-boat.jpg) The actual speaker on our boat. From the outside it still looks fine — it's the cones, behind the grille, that crumbled. This season we found the cones had completely fallen apart. Deteriorated, crumbling, done. Not blown, not water-logged — the cones themselves broke down. The speakers don't work, and there is nothing to fix. ## What "marine" is supposed to buy you A marine speaker costs more because it's built to survive the thing that kills normal speakers outdoors: UV, salt, humidity, heat. The cone, the surround, the adhesives — all of it chosen to hold up on the water for years. That is the product. That's what the word on the box is promising. Ours delivered barely a year and a half of real use before the cones disintegrated. For a speaker whose one job is to outlast the marine environment, that's a plain failure. ## The part that failed was the part that matters This wasn't water in the wiring or a corroded terminal. The cones — the part doing the actual work — crumbled. That's exactly the failure a marine rating exists to prevent. Sun and salt eat cheap cone materials alive; whatever Sony used here didn't resist them. ## Why this one stings A no-name speaker dying fast, we'd understand. The frustrating part is we did the responsible thing: recognized brand, paid for the version explicitly labeled for marine use, and still ended up with junk in under two seasons. The marine label did its marketing job and not much else. ## What we're looking for in a replacement - **Cone and surround material.** UV-treated polypropylene or composite cones with rubber surrounds, not paper or foam — the exact part that died on ours. - **A real IP rating, not just the word "marine."** An ingress-protection number is something a manufacturer has to stand behind. A word on a box is not. - **Where they mount.** Even good speakers last longer out of direct sun — use an overhang or covers if you can. - **Brands that live or die on marine gear.** A marine-audio company has more to lose from crumbling cones than one for which marine is a rounding error. ## The bottom line A marine label and a trusted name, and the cones still fell apart after eighteen months on the water. We can't recommend them, and we're shopping for something actually built to survive the environment it's sold for. What we liked - Looked and worked fine when new — for about 18 months What we didn't - Cones completely deteriorated by this season - “Marine certified” on the box guaranteed nothing - Bought 2023, dead by 2026 [The speakers we're warning you about — Sony XS-MP1611 on Amazon](https://amzn.to/4eYqrCT?ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Avoid. durability2 / 10 “marine certified”2 / 10 value3 / 10 ### Hot Water Heater on Battery Power? URL: https://www.goodkit.io/hot-water-heater-on-battery-power/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T16:06:54.000Z The boat is in the tropics and we don't have air conditioning — but we still like a hot-ish shower at night. On Yoto there are four ways to get one: 1. Plug into shore power 2. Run the generator 3. Run the engine \~20 minutes (the coolant loop runs through the water heater) 4. Power the heater from the inverter — which boats are correctly wired *not* to do on battery Here's how those options actually looked for us. We didn't touch a dock from November 2023 through the end of May 2024, so no shore power. Our generator has never worked properly, so no generator. The inverter was wired (correctly) to keep heavy loads off battery power, and we were on battery 100% of the time. That left the engine — which sits directly under Olivia's bed, and running a diesel just to make shower water never felt good. So for the first stretch of the cruise, hot water was hit or miss. ## The realization: we had power to burn Then the clouds parted — in my head, anyway. On plenty of days we had significant surplus solar. The batteries would be full by early afternoon and the panels would spend the rest of the day doing nothing. What if the water heater could soak up that surplus? The first plan was crude: rewire the heater to run off the inverter like the other AC loads, and add a manual switch to flip on when there was power to spare. ## The better answer was already aboard Reading the Victron manual, I hit the section on **programmable switches** via VEConfigure Assistants — rules that can switch a load based on triggers like battery state of charge. The plan rewrote itself: 1. Create a rule on the inverter that turns the water heater load on and off 2. Trigger it on battery state of charge ![VEConfigure programmable relay options](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/06/Screenshot-2024-08-28-at-12.31.11-AM.png) I didn't have the cable to connect to the inverter — but it turns out you don't need one. Configuration can be changed through the VRM online portal by downloading the config file, editing it, and uploading it back. I had real apprehensions about doing that to the key component of the boat's electrical system. I held my breath and uploaded. The whole boat shut down… and a minute later everything came back online, working. ## Dialing in the trigger The strategy: heater on at 93% state of charge, off below 90%. Even if the sun vanished the moment it kicked on, we were only ever risking 3% of the bank for warm water. First day, we all watched the SOC climb. It hit 93% and… nothing. The gotcha: the boat's display rounds — it showed 93% while the actual SOC was 92.7%. A little later the real number crossed 93%, and within seconds the AC load jumped almost 1,800 watts. That's the sound of shower water heating. ![VEConfigure assistant SOC trigger settings](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/06/Screenshot-2024-08-28-at-12.32.16-AM.png) It has run perfectly ever since, and cold showers have been rare. ## Gear in this build The whole trick runs on Victron gear you may already have aboard — no new hardware: - [Victron MultiPlus](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D9ZJYRVR?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) — the inverter/charger whose programmable switch does the work; match voltage/VA to your system - [Victron Cerbo GX](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D6LVZWGX?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) — where you watch state of charge; our [setup guide](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-cerbo-gx-setup-guide-from-install-to-remote-monitoring/) gets you there Configuration happens for free through the VRM portal — no cable, no dongle. New to Home Assistant? Our [setup guide for boats and RVs](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-boat-rv-setup-guide/) covers the install and the first automations worth doing — this one included. How it’s done Victron inverteralready aboard controlVEConfigure Assistant triggerSOC 93% on / 90% off new hardwarenone ### Anchor Light Automation URL: https://www.goodkit.io/anchor-light-automation/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T16:06:56.000Z There are easy, off-the-shelf ways to automate an anchor light: a new housing or bulb with a photocell. Both mean going up the mast, and both are decently pricey. We took the path less traveled — and ended up with something better. ## The detour: fancy marine hardware Back on land our house has been "smart" for years — we've been through most of the protocols (Z-Wave, Zigbee, BLE, LoRaWAN) and most of the hubs (SmartThings, Wink, Crestron, openHAB, [Home Assistant](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/)). The original plan for Yoto was proprietary CZone gear, bought used on eBay and shipped to Grenada. A couple of hours into the CZone software told the real story: automating one light circuit would mean rewiring a big chunk of the distribution panel, making the physical switch inoperable without even more rewiring — and the simple CZone module we'd planned to use has no internal clock, so it can't even know when sunset is. We paused before rewiring anything. Good call. ## The fix: one $20 relay A Raspberry Pi we'd shipped out as a navigation backup was sitting unused. Two Amazon purchases later (a Zigbee/Z-Wave USB adapter and a [Shelly](https://www.goodkit.io/shelly-on-a-boat-cheap-smart-automation-for-12v-marine-systems/) relay rated for DC loads), we had everything — and only needed one of the two, since the Shelly speaks Wi-Fi on its own. Five minutes of wiring put the Shelly in as a bypass alongside the physical anchor-light switch — the panel switch still works exactly as before. That alone gave us app control. Installing Home Assistant on the Pi and adopting the Shelly took it the rest of the way: an automation that turns the light on at sunset and off at sunrise, every night, without a thought. Connecting to Nabu Casa added remote access. ## The payoff There was real joy in checking from shore that the anchor light was, in fact, on. But the most satisfying moment was hopping in the dinghy at night in the crowded harbor at Charlotte Amalie and toggling the light on and off from a phone to find which towering mast was ours in the inky dark. The anchor light was the first win, not the last — temperature tags and local weather came next, NMEA 2000 data and more automations are on the list. If you want to go deeper, the best resource we found on boat automation is [boathackers.com](https://boathackers.com/?ref=goodkit.io). ## Gear in this build - [Shelly Plus 1 (DC-rated relay)](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CN19JZKB?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) — the Wi-Fi relay that switches the light - [Raspberry Pi 4](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TC2BK1X?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) — runs Home Assistant aboard - [Home Assistant](https://www.home-assistant.io/?ref=goodkit.io) — the free, open-source brain behind the sunset/sunrise rule If you don't run Home Assistant yet, this is a perfect first project — our [setup guide for boats and RVs](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-boat-rv-setup-guide/) gets you from zero to exactly here. Parts & tools Shelly switch (DC-rated)the one part Raspberry Pi + Home Assistantruns it Nabu Casaoptional (remote) ### Paddle North Loon's Nest vs. the Sunchill: The Two Differences That Matter URL: https://www.goodkit.io/paddle-north-loons-nest-vs-sunchill/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T15:35:28.000Z **Disclosure:* Paddle North gave us a discount on this gear in exchange for a few social media photos — not in exchange for this article. We are writing it up because we genuinely like it, and the opinions here are our own.* ## What the Loon’s Nest Is The Paddle North Loon’s Nest is a 10-foot inflatable floating lounger — a stiff drop-stitch ring wrapped around a tough mesh center you can sink into. Inflate it hard and it behaves more like a floating dock than a pool toy: stable, big enough for a small crowd, and built to take a beating. The float most people will line it up against is the Sunchill, the round mesh-center lounger you have probably seen at the lake. We spent time with the Loon’s Nest with exactly that comparison in mind, and two differences stand out — plus a couple of build details worth knowing. ## Difference #1: A Ring You Can Actually Sit On On the Loon’s Nest, the outer ring is wide enough and buoyant enough to sit on. That sounds minor until you are on the water. Instead of everyone piling into the mesh center, people perch on the edge, dangle their legs over, and use the ring as a bench. It roughly doubles how the thing gets used. The Sunchill’s ring is not built for that. It will float you in the middle, but the tube around the outside is not something you sit on. With the Loon’s Nest the ring is part of the seating — and on a float full of people, that matters more than any spec sheet. ## Difference #2: Screw-Down Attachment Points The Loon’s Nest has solid screw-down attachment points spaced around the ring. These are real mounts, not just D-rings — you thread on what you want and it stays put. We use them for drink holders and a GoPro mount, but they will take any standard action-mount accessory. That turns the float into a platform you can rig out: cup holders where you actually want them, a camera mount for the cannonball contests, a spot for a phone or a speaker. The Sunchill does not give you that kind of build-it-out flexibility. ## Built Like It Will Last The build is where you feel the price difference. The rub rail around the edge — the part that gets dragged up docks and knocked against the boat — is thick and genuinely heavy, not the thin trim you find on cheaper floats. Pumped up firm, the Nest is stiff and solid underfoot, with none of the flex or squish that makes a budget lounger feel disposable. It should still be around in ten summers. ## The Overpressure Relief Valve This is the detail we did not expect to care about and now would not skip: every Paddle North inflatable has an overpressure relief valve. Here is why it matters. A hard-inflated drop-stitch float left in the summer sun heats up, the air inside expands, and the internal pressure climbs. On a lot of inflatables that stress goes straight into the seams. The relief valve simply vents the excess before it becomes a problem. It is a small thing that quietly protects your investment — better safety on a hot dock, and real longevity over the life of the float. ## The Bottom Line If you are deciding between the Loon’s Nest and the Sunchill, the Nest is the one we would buy. The sit-on ring and the screw-down mounts change how you actually use it, and the rub rail, heavy PVC, and overpressure valve mean it should outlast the cheaper option by years. It costs a bit more, for reasons you can feel the first time you use it. What we liked - A ring you can actually sit on - Screw-down mounts for drink holders and GoPros - Tough rub rail and an overpressure valve built to last What we didn’t - Pricier than the Sunchill — you feel it in the build (that’s the trade) [See the Loon’s Nest at Paddle North](https://paddlenorth.com/products/loons-nest?ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Two differences that matter. ring you can sit onLoon’s Nest screw-down mountsLoon’s Nest build detailsrub rail + valve ### Splinter Out: The Disposable Splinter Remover You'll Be Glad You Have URL: https://www.goodkit.io/splinter-out-disposable-splinter-remover/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T18:21:32.000Z This is not an exciting product. It is a little disposable splinter remover that costs a few dollars. But we have reached for Splinter Out more times than we can count, and every single time we were glad it was in the drawer. ## What It Is Splinter Out is a single-use splinter remover — a small handle with a fine, sharp point. You slide the point under the splinter and lift it out, instead of digging around with tweezers or jabbing at it with a sewing needle. When you are done, you throw it away. They come twenty to a box, so there is always a fresh one ready. ## Why Disposable Is Actually the Point The disposable part sounds like a gimmick until you have used one. Every remover has a fresh, sharp tip — no dull tweezers, no hunting for a needle and a lighter to sterilize it. You use it once, on one splinter, and toss it. For something you grab at random moments (often with a kid involved), “always sharp, always clean, always findable” is worth more than the dollar it costs. ## It Just Works Better Than Tweezers Tweezers grab the end of a splinter, which is great when there is an end sticking out. Most of the time there is not. The fine point on the Splinter Out slips under the splinter and lifts it from below, which hurts less and tends to get the whole thing instead of breaking it off. It is not magic, but it is noticeably better than the usual fumbling. ## Keep Them Everywhere This is the kind of thing that is useless right up until the moment you need it, and then nothing else will do. Splinters come from docks, teak decks, dock lines, firewood, that one rough cabinet edge in the RV, the back deck at home. A box of twenty is cheap enough to split up: a few on the boat, a few in the RV first-aid kit, a few in the kitchen junk drawer. Stash them and forget about them until someone yelps. ## The Bottom Line Nothing fancy. It is a cheap, disposable splinter remover that does one small job better than the tweezers you would otherwise reach for. Buy a box, scatter them around the boat, the rig, and the house, and you will be glad you did the next time someone catches a sliver of teak. What we liked - Cheap and disposable — keep them everywhere - Exactly what you want the moment someone catches a splinter - On the boat, in the RV, and at home What we didn't - Single-use [Check price on Amazon](https://amzn.to/4ocFL1S?ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Glad you have it. effectiveness9 / 10 cost10 / 10 shelf life9 / 10 ### We Built a Boat Tracker — and an Anchor Alarm You Can Set From Shore URL: https://www.goodkit.io/anchor-alarm-you-can-set-from-shore/ Last updated: 2026-07-15T14:11:07.000Z ## What We Built WhereIsOurBoat started as a simple idea: one link that always shows where our boat is, so family and friends can stop asking and just look. It has grown into two things we now rely on every day — live position tracking and an anchor alarm — and both have earned their keep. Since leaving the Dominican Republic, the system has tracked us through Puerto Rico, the US Virgin Islands, and now the British Virgin Islands without missing a beat. ## The Anchor Alarm You Can Set From Shore This is the feature we did not expect to love as much as we do. Here is the scenario every cruiser knows. You drop the hook, get settled, and head ashore for dinner. Halfway through the meal a gust rolls through and you remember you never set the anchor alarm. Now you are sitting at a bar a half mile away, watching the palm trees bend, wondering if your home is still where you left it. Our anchor alarm fixes exactly that. We can set it, monitor it, and get alerts from anywhere — including from a phone on shore. Honestly, we almost never remember to set it while we are still aboard. We set it from the dinghy dock, or from the dinner table, the moment the worry kicks in. It just works. It is brilliant. ## Why It Works From Anywhere The trick is where the GPS comes from. Every anchor alarm app we have ever used runs on your phone’s GPS, which means it only works while you are aboard with the app awake and open. Walk away with the phone in your pocket and the watch walks off with you. Ours uses the boat’s own GPS instead — the position coming straight off the boat’s [NMEA 2000](https://www.goodkit.io/yacht-devices-ydnr-02-review-3-years-of-nmea-2000-to-wi-fi/) network — and reports it online. The anchor watch is tied to the boat, not to your phone. So it keeps running whether you are in the cockpit or two rum punches deep at a beach bar, and it can reach you wherever you are. Set it from shore, monitor it from shore, get the alert on shore. The boat is watching itself. ## Tracking That Has Not Missed a Beat The other half is the part that started it all: one clean, always-current page that shows where the boat is. No app for anyone to install, no commercial vessel-traffic site to decipher — just a link you can text to your mom. It shows our current position and recent track, and it has quietly logged the entire run from the Dominican Republic through the BVI. For the people back home, the answer to “where are you?” is now a link. For us, it is knowing that someone can always see where we are. ## How It Connects Today the system reads the boat’s data through a direct NMEA 2000-to-WiFi connection. If you already run a NMEA 2000 network with a WiFi gateway — and plenty of boats do — you can be up and tracking with the exact setup we use right now. It has run flawlessly for us across an entire Caribbean season. ## What Is Coming We are not stopping there. The next piece is a dedicated, plug-and-play device: connect it to your NMEA 2000 network, get it online, and the tracking and anchor alarm just work — no gateway to configure, nothing to rig. It is in testing now, and it will make the whole thing effortless for any boat that wants it. And that is just the start. There is more coming. ## Follow Along The tracking and the anchor alarm are real, we use them every single day, and they have proven themselves across a few hundred miles of open water. If you want to follow our boat — or be among the first to get the dedicated device when it ships — you can find us at [whereisourboat.com](https://whereisourboat.com/?ref=goodkit.io). ### Show Me Your Dinghy Light — A Full Season Aboard (Including a Night on the Seabed) URL: https://www.goodkit.io/show-me-your-dinghy-light/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T18:14:35.000Z ## A Dinghy Light That Earns Its Spot We have run a Show Me Your Dinghy light for a full season now, and it has quietly become one of those pieces of gear we would replace the same day if we lost it. It is a small, solar-powered, all-around LED light built to make your dinghy visible at anchor and underway — and unlike most of the disposable marine electronics we have owned, this one is built to survive the abuse a tender actually takes. We have the white sealed manual model. Here is what a season of real use taught us. ## You Can Actually Turn It Off That sounds convenient until the dinghy is hanging from the davits while you are anchored or sailing at night. With the boat’s proper anchor or navigation lights already operating, you want the dinghy light off—not glowing alongside them and creating an unnecessary or confusing extra light. The sealed manual version gives you a simple on/off control. You decide when it is lit. For us that flexibility is the entire reason to choose this one over the automatic version — on for the night, off when we do not want it, no fuss. ## The Sealed Touch Button Is the Whole Point The on/off control is a sealed, touch-sensitive “button.” There is no mechanical switch poking through the housing, which means no gap for water to work its way into and no moving part to corrode shut. On a piece of gear that lives outdoors in salt air and spray, that matters more than almost anything else. A traditional toggle or rubber-boot switch is usually the first thing to die on marine electronics. Eliminating it entirely is the right call, and after a full season of daily use ours actuates exactly like it did on day one. We expect this to outlast everything else on the dinghy. ## Solar-Powered, Set and Forget The light charges itself from a small solar panel, so there is nothing to plug in and no charging routine to remember. We mounted it on the dinghy and it has kept itself topped up ever since. The practical result is the only spec that matters: it has worked every single time we have needed it at night. No wiring, no battery swaps, no dead light when it counts. ![Two dinghies illuminated by Show Me Your Dinghy lights at night](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/06/light.jpg) The lights in actual use: two dinghies remain easy to spot at night without flooding the anchorage with light. ## We Dropped It Overboard. It Did Not Care. The real test was unplanned. One night it came off and went to the bottom in about 15 feet of water. The next morning we dove down and brought it back up. It still works perfectly — a full night fully submerged on the seabed, and it came up exactly as it went down. Show Me Your Dinghy rates these as fully waterproof to roughly 30 feet and crush proof, and now we believe it. For something that lives on a boat that flips, swamps, and gets dropped, “survives a night underwater” is the durability claim that actually counts. ## One Is Not Enough Right now we have ours Velcro’d to the outboard cowling. The unit has proper mounting holes if you want to bolt it down, but Velcro has held fine all season and makes it easy to move or bring inside. It works great — but one light is not really enough once you see how useful it is. Our plan from here: - **A second one for the bow of the dinghy** — better visibility from more angles, whether we are underway or tied up in a crowded anchorage. - **A red unit for the cockpit on night passages** — red light preserves your night vision, so you can move around and read instruments without ruining your eyes for the dark. Show Me Your Dinghy makes red and red/green sealed manual versions, and the white pairs with a red/green split unit for a proper all-around nav light setup. [Shop the red and split-unit options](https://showmeyourdinghy.com/collections/all?ref=goodkit.io) ## What It Costs The white sealed manual model runs about $60\. The automatic photocell versions are a bit less (around $40) if you would rather have the dusk-to-dawn behavior and do not care about manual control. They come in white, red, green, blue, tri-color, and red/green, so you can match the light to its job — all-around white for visibility, red or green for channel marking and night use. For the money, a single light that is solar-powered, sealed, crush proof, and genuinely waterproof is a bargain next to the rechargeable lights we have killed in a season or two. [Check prices at Show Me Your Dinghy](https://showmeyourdinghy.com/collections/all?ref=goodkit.io) ## The Bottom Line What we liked - A full season on the outboard - Spent an accidental night on the seabed in 15 feet of water — still works perfectly What we didn’t - You’ll want a second (and a red one) once you see how useful it is A full season in, one accidental night on the seabed, and ours still works like new. The manual on/off control is the feature that sets it apart, the sealed touch button should last for years, and the solar power means we never think about it. We are buying more — and that is the highest recommendation we give. Highly recommend. The verdict Survived the seabed. durability10 / 10 waterproofing10 / 10 set & forget9 / 10 ### Marine Solar Sizing Calculator URL: https://www.goodkit.io/marine-solar-sizing-calculator/ Last updated: 2026-05-11T01:09:12.000Z Daily Energy Need (Wh) How much energy you want solar to replace each day. If you want it to fully cover daily consumption, use the same number from your battery sizing. Peak Sun Hours per Day 6 hours — Tropics, summer (Caribbean, Mexico, FL summer) 5 hours — Tropics year-round / temperate summer 4 hours — Temperate spring/fall 3 hours — Temperate winter / Pacific NW summer 2 hours — Northern winter / heavy clouds "Peak sun hours" is daily kWh/m² — not total daylight. Look up your location at [Global Solar Atlas](https://globalsolaratlas.info/?ref=goodkit.io) for accuracy. System Losses 25% (typical marine — shading, MPPT, heat, soiling) 35% (heavy shading or dirty panels) 15% (clean install, no shading, MPPT) Real-world panels never deliver nameplate. Marine installs lose about 25% to MPPT efficiency, panel temperature, mast/rigging shadows, salt spray, and panel angle. Charge Controller MPPT (recommended) PWM (simpler, \~30% less efficient) Calculate ## How to Use This **Enter daily Wh need.** Same number you used for battery sizing. If you want solar to fully recharge the bank each day, that's the answer. If you're okay running the engine or generator part of the time, use a smaller number. **Peak sun hours, not daylight hours.** This is the most-misunderstood input. "Peak sun hours" means the equivalent number of hours of full 1000 W/m² sun. Caribbean noon is full sun. Caribbean 8 AM is maybe 30% of full sun. The total energy delivered across the day is rolled up into "peak sun hours." A summer day in the tropics gives 5–6 peak sun hours, even though there are 13 hours of daylight. **Losses are real and big.** Marine installs lose 20–30% between nameplate and what hits the battery: MPPT controller efficiency (\~95%), panel temperature derating (panels get hot, output drops), shading from rigging or biminis, salt and dirt on glass, and panel angle (most marine panels are mounted flat, missing 10–15% vs optimum tilt). The 25% default is realistic. **MPPT vs PWM.** Use MPPT. The 30% efficiency hit from PWM is rarely worth the small cost savings. Victron SmartSolar MPPT controllers are the gold standard. ## Real-World Example On Yoto we have \~2,600W of panels in the tropics. Math: - 2,600W × 5 sun hours × 75% efficiency = **9,750 Wh/day** - We typically see 7,500–10,000 Wh/day in clean conditions, dropping to 3,000–5,000 Wh on cloudy days That covers our typical 6,000–8,000 Wh daily consumption with surplus most of the time. On heavy cloud days we either run the watermaker only when the sun's out, or top up with the engine alternators. This calculator's defaults are calibrated to roughly match what we actually see. ## What This Doesn't Account For **Latitude and seasonal variation.** Peak sun hours change by month and location. The selector is a rough average. For accuracy, look up your specific location on [Global Solar Atlas](https://globalsolaratlas.info/?ref=goodkit.io) and pick the worst-case month for your usage pattern. **Shading patterns.** A panel is only as good as its worst-shaded cell on most strings. If you have rigging shadows that move across panels through the day, model the worst case, not the average. **Heat derating in detail.** Panels get derated about 0.4% per °C above 25°C cell temperature. In tropical summer, panel surface temperature can hit 60–70°C. That's another 15–18% loss baked into the typical 25% loss factor. **Cloudy-day reality.** This calculator assumes the average sun day. Your week of overcast might deliver 30% of expected output. Size your battery for the autonomy days; size your solar for the average day. ## Common Mistakes **Confusing daylight hours with peak sun hours.** "13 hours of sunlight" doesn't mean 13 peak sun hours. The actual number is closer to 4–6 even in the tropics. **Trusting nameplate.** A "400W panel" delivers 400W only at standard test conditions: 25°C, 1000 W/m², no losses, perpendicular sun. You will not see 400W in real use. The calculator's loss factor accounts for this. **Skipping the MPPT.** People save $80 buying a PWM controller and lose 30% of their solar output for the life of the system. Pay for MPPT. **Sizing solar to fully charge a too-big bank.** If you have 10,000 Wh of solar capacity per day but a 25,000 Wh bank, you'll never fully recharge during the days you actually need it. Size battery and solar together — solar should be capable of fully replenishing the bank in 1–2 days of normal sun. ## Where to Buy Solar charge controllers, panels, and complete kits: → [Solar and Charge Controllers on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/collections/electrical?ref=goodkit.io) ## Cross-References - [Battery Bank Sizing Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-battery-bank-sizing-calculator/) — pair the right bank to the right solar array - [Victron vs Renogy: Which Solar Setup?](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-vs-renogy-which-solar-setup-is-right-for-your-rv/) - [Marine Wire Gauge Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-wire-gauge-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — solar wires from panel to MPPT to battery - [Marine Fuse Sizing Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-fuse-sizing-calculator-abyc-e-11/) --- Spotted something off? Email braden@goodkit.io. ### Marine Battery Bank Sizing Calculator URL: https://www.goodkit.io/marine-battery-bank-sizing-calculator/ Last updated: 2026-05-11T01:09:11.000Z Daily Energy Consumption (Wh) Add up everything you use in 24 hours. Fridge \~600 Wh, lights/fans \~300 Wh, laptop \~150 Wh, watermaker varies. System Voltage 12V 24V 48V Days of Autonomy Days you want to run without charging. Cruisers typically 1–3, off-grid liveaboards 3–5, conservative 5–7. Battery Chemistry LiFePO4 (Lithium) — 80% usable AGM — 50% usable Gel — 50% usable Flooded Lead-Acid — 50% usable Charging Reserve No reserve (size to exactly meet need) 20% reserve (recommended — handles cloudy days, surprises) 50% reserve (very conservative) Calculate ## How to Use This **Start with daily Wh consumption.** That's the input that matters most. Add up your fridge, lights, electronics, watermaker, and anything else that runs from the bank in a typical 24-hour day. If you don't know — start measuring with a battery monitor (the [Victron SmartShunt](https://www.goodkit.io/best-marine-battery-monitor-victron-smartshunt-500a-review/) is what we use on Yoto). **Days of autonomy is judgment.** Most cruisers size for 1–3 days. Off-grid liveaboards 3–5\. Belt-and-suspenders 5–7\. The bigger the bank, the more it costs and the longer it takes to recharge — but the more cushion you have for cloudy weeks. **Pick the right chemistry.** LiFePO4 is the right answer for almost any new install — 80% usable vs 50% for lead-acid means a 100Ah lithium bank does the same job as a 200Ah lead-acid bank, weighs half as much, and lasts 3–5× longer. The price gap has narrowed significantly. Lead-acid still wins on cold-weather use (LiFePO4 won't charge below \~32°F without internal heating) and absolute lowest upfront cost. **The reserve multiplier matters more than people think.** Sizing exactly to your daily need leaves zero margin for cloudy weeks, surprise loads, or aging cells. 20% reserve is the practical default. 50% is paranoid but cheap insurance on a system you live with for years. ## What This Doesn't Account For A few things this calculator simplifies that you should think about separately: **Temperature derating.** All batteries lose capacity in cold. LiFePO4 drops about 10–20% at freezing. Lead-acid drops more. If you're cold-weather cruising or storing the boat in winter, size up. **Aging.** Both lithium and lead-acid lose capacity over the bank's life. Plan to replace lead-acid every 3–7 years, lithium every 8–15 years. The numbers above are for a new bank. **Peak loads.** A windlass or thruster pulls 100–300A momentarily. The bank has to deliver that without sagging out of spec. Most modern lithium and AGM banks handle this, but flooded lead-acid struggles with high-current pulses. **Inverter efficiency.** If you're powering AC loads through an inverter, the inverter itself is 85–95% efficient. The Wh you measure on the AC side gets a 5–15% bump on the DC side. The 95% round-trip efficiency for lithium in this calculator approximates this for typical use. ## Common Mistakes **Sizing for "100Ah lithium = 100Ah lead-acid."** It doesn't. 100Ah lithium gives you 80Ah usable. 100Ah lead-acid gives you 50Ah usable. To replace a 200Ah lead-acid bank with lithium, you only need about 125Ah of lithium for the same usable capacity. **Forgetting the inverter and watermaker.** The big draws are easy to forget. A watermaker can pull 30A while running, and even an hour a day adds up to 360 Wh. Inverter standby pulls 10–30W constantly even with no AC load. **Not accounting for charge time.** A bigger bank takes longer to recharge. If you have 2,000 Wh of solar but a 10,000 Wh bank, you'll never fully recharge on a sunny day. **Going lead-acid because lithium "is too expensive."** Run the math over 10 years. Lithium has been cheaper in total cost of ownership for at least 5 years now. ## Where to Buy Cells, BMS, and complete LiFePO4 systems for marine and RV builds: → [Battery Chargers and Monitoring on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/collections/electrical?ref=goodkit.io) ## Cross-References - [Best Marine Battery Monitor: Victron SmartShunt 500A Review](https://www.goodkit.io/best-marine-battery-monitor-victron-smartshunt-500a-review/) — measure your actual consumption before sizing - [Marine Wire Gauge Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-wire-gauge-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — size the cables to your bank - [Marine Fuse Sizing Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-fuse-sizing-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — required within 7 inches of the battery - [RV Battery Monitoring: What Actually Works](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/) --- Spotted something off? Email braden@goodkit.io. We use this on Yoto. ### Marine Fuse Sizing Calculator (ABYC E-11) URL: https://www.goodkit.io/marine-fuse-sizing-calculator-abyc-e-11/ Last updated: 2026-05-11T01:09:10.000Z Load Current (Amps) Load Type Continuous (3+ hours: lights, fridge, electronics, charger) Intermittent (under 3 hours: bilge pump, windlass, horn) Motor / inductive (windlass, thruster, autopilot) Inverter / charger Wire Size Used (Optional — for safety check) Skip — I'll match wire to fuse later 18 AWG 16 AWG 14 AWG 12 AWG 10 AWG 8 AWG 6 AWG 4 AWG 2 AWG 1 AWG 1/0 AWG 2/0 AWG 3/0 AWG 4/0 AWG Wire Location Outside engine room (≤50°C) Inside engine room (50–75°C) Calculate ## How to Use This **Pick the right load type — this matters more than people think.** ABYC defines a "continuous load" as anything running 3 hours or more. Continuous loads are sized at 125% of nameplate current. Intermittent loads are sized at 100%. Motors get 156% to handle inrush. **The wire size dropdown is optional** but recommended. The calculator will warn you if your fuse rating exceeds the wire's ampacity — which is a fire hazard. **The fuse exists to protect the wire, not the device.** If your wire melts before your fuse blows, the fuse is wrong. **This is for branch circuits**, not engine starting. Starter circuits have special rules — typically no fuse on the starter cable itself, with battery protection handled differently. ## What ABYC E-11 Says About Fusing ABYC Standard E-11 has specific rules for overcurrent protection on boats: - **Every positive lead from a battery must be fused within 7 inches of the battery** (175mm). The exceptions are limited: engine cranking circuits, and certain devices with their own internal protection. - **The fuse rating must not exceed the wire's ampacity.** This is the rule people miss most often. A 40A fuse on 14 AWG wire is a fire waiting to happen — the wire's ampacity is 20A. - **Standard fuse sizes** are accepted: 1, 2, 3, 5, 7.5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 60, 70, 80, 100, 125, 150, 175, 200, 250, 300, 400, 500\. Round up to the next standard size, never down. - **Continuous loads sized at 125%.** Anything running 3+ hours. - **Motor / inductive loads sized at 156%** to handle locked rotor / inrush current without nuisance trips. ## Fuse Type Guide The right fuse depends on current and battery chemistry: | Current | Recommended fuse | Notes | | --------- | ------------------------ | --------------------------------------------------------------------- | | Up to 30A | ATO/ATC blade fuse | Easy to find, cheap, standard automotive | | 30–100A | MIDI / MEGA / ANL | Bolt-down, marine standard | | 100–300A | ANL or MEGA | Common for inverter feeds, alternator output | | 300–500A | ANL or Class T | Class T strongly recommended for lithium | | 500A+ | \*\*Class T required\*\* | Only Class T has the interrupting capacity for lithium fault currents | **Lithium note:** Lithium batteries can deliver enormous fault currents (10,000+ amps in a dead short). Standard ANL fuses can fail to interrupt at these currents, melting closed and turning the fuse into a fire source. Class T fuses have a 20,000A interrupting rating and are the safe choice for any lithium bank. ## Common Mistakes **Sizing fuse to load instead of wire.** This is backwards. The wire dictates max fuse size. If your load needs 80A but you ran 8 AWG (55A ampacity), the maximum fuse you can use is 55A — and that won't be enough for the load. Upsize the wire. **Forgetting the 125% multiplier.** A 30A continuous load needs at least a 40A fuse, not a 30A fuse. A 30A fuse will nuisance-trip on a load that's actually drawing 30A continuously. **Using the wrong fuse type for lithium.** Standard ANL fuses are not safe on lithium banks above \~300A. Class T or DC-rated breakers only. **Mounting the fuse far from the battery.** ABYC requires within 7 inches. Run the wire from the battery directly to the fuse, then from the fuse to wherever it needs to go. The unfused section between battery and fuse is the part that fails dangerously. ## Where to Buy Marine fuses, fuse blocks, and Class T setups for lithium banks: → [Marine Fuse Blocks & Fuses on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/collections/electrical-fuse-blocks-fuses?ref=goodkit.io) ## Cross-References - [Marine Wire Gauge Calculator (ABYC E-11)](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-wire-gauge-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — pair the right wire with the right fuse - [How to Wire a Victron SmartShunt: Step-by-Step](https://www.goodkit.io/how-to-wire-a-victron-smartshunt-step-by-step-install-guide/) — fusing the SmartShunt sense lead - [Best Marine Battery Monitor: Victron SmartShunt Review](https://www.goodkit.io/best-marine-battery-monitor-victron-smartshunt-500a-review/) --- Spotted something off in the calculation? Email braden@goodkit.io. We use this on Yoto and update it when we hit edge cases. ### Marine Wire Gauge Calculator (ABYC E-11) URL: https://www.goodkit.io/marine-wire-gauge-calculator-abyc-e-11/ Last updated: 2026-08-14T01:59:29.000Z Current Draw (Amps) One-Way Distance (Feet) System Voltage 12V 24V 32V 48V Allowable Voltage Drop 3% — Critical loads (panels, electronics, navigation, bilge) 10% — Non-critical (lights, cabin accessories, fans) Location Outside engine room (≤50°C) Inside engine room (50–75°C) Calculate ## How to Use This **Critical loads vs. non-critical:** ABYC E-11 sets two voltage drop limits. Use **3%** for anything where reduced voltage causes problems — bilge pumps, navigation electronics, panel feeds, autopilot, MFDs, refrigeration. Use **10%** for everything else — cabin lights, fans, USB outlets, accessories. **Engine room vs outside:** Wires inside an engine room (or anywhere the ambient temp regularly exceeds 50°C) need to be derated for ampacity. Toggle the dropdown if your wire run is in a hot location. **The "limited by" line tells you what really matters.** Most marine runs are limited by voltage drop, not ampacity. That's why short runs use thinner wire than the gauge ratings suggest, and long runs use thicker wire than you'd expect from current alone. ## What ABYC E-11 Actually Says ABYC Standard E-11 ("AC and DC Electrical Systems on Boats") is the rule book that marine surveyors, insurance companies, and competent boat builders all reference. The relevant rules for wire sizing: - **Round-trip length** is what counts. A 20-foot run from battery to bilge pump is 40 feet of total wire (positive + negative), and that's what's used to calculate voltage drop. This calculator doubles your one-way input internally. - **3% voltage drop** for critical loads, **10%** for non-critical. - **Tinned copper marine wire** is required (UL 1426 type BC-5W2 or equivalent) for any wet location. Standard automotive wire is not sufficient. - **Stranded wire only.** Solid wire fails from vibration in marine environments. - **Insulation rated for at least 105°C** for general use. This calculator uses the standard resistance values for stranded copper conductors and the ABYC E-11 ampacity tables for 105°C insulation, both inside and outside the engine room. ## Where to Buy Marine-Grade Wire You need **tinned copper, stranded, 105°C insulation, marine-grade**. Ancor is the standard. Pacer and Cobra also work. Don't substitute automotive wire — the bare copper corrodes inside the insulation in salt air. → [Marine Wire Selection on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/collections/electrical-wire?ref=goodkit.io) ## Common Mistakes **Sizing for ampacity only.** This is the #1 mistake. A 14 AWG wire is rated for 20A, but for a 25-foot run at 20A you actually need 10 AWG to keep voltage drop under 10%. The wire wouldn't melt — it would just deliver 9V to a 12V appliance. **Using one-way distance somewhere it shouldn't be.** This calculator already doubles for round trip. If you're getting unusably thick recommendations from another calculator, check whether you're feeding it round-trip length when it expects one-way (or vice versa). **Forgetting fuses.** Wire size determines fuse size, not the other way around. The fuse protects the wire from overheating, so the fuse rating must be at or below the wire's ampacity rating. ABYC requires fuses on every positive lead within 7 inches of the battery (with a few specific exceptions). **Mixing AC and DC sizing.** This calculator is for DC systems only. AC wire sizing follows the same physics but uses NEC tables and different voltage drop conventions. ## Cross-References - [How to Wire a Victron SmartShunt: Step-by-Step](https://www.goodkit.io/how-to-wire-a-victron-smartshunt-step-by-step-install-guide/) — practical example of running 4 AWG wire from battery to shunt - [Victron Cerbo GX Setup Guide](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-cerbo-gx-setup-guide-from-install-to-remote-monitoring/) — sizing the power feed to the Cerbo - [Best Marine Battery Monitor: Victron SmartShunt Review](https://www.goodkit.io/best-marine-battery-monitor-victron-smartshunt-500a-review/) — the device that goes on the negative side - [Marine Fuse Sizing Calculator (ABYC E-11)](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-fuse-sizing-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — pick the fuse after you size the wire --- Found a bug or disagreement with the calculation? Email braden@goodkit.io. We use this calculator on Yoto and update it when ABYC publishes errata. ### Yacht Devices YDNR-02 Review: 3 Years of NMEA 2000 to Wi-Fi URL: https://www.goodkit.io/yacht-devices-ydnr-02-review-3-years-of-nmea-2000-to-wi-fi/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:47:31.000Z ## What It Does The Yacht Devices YDNR-02 is a NMEA 2000 Wi-Fi router. It plugs into your N2K backbone and serves up your boat's data — depth, wind, GPS, AIS, engine, tank levels, anything on the bus — to any device on your Wi-Fi network. Open Navionics on your phone. Open iNavX, Aqua Map, [TimeZero](https://www.goodkit.io/timezero-review-the-best-integrated-marine-navigation-software-with-some-frustrating-gaps/), or any chart app that speaks NMEA 0183 or NMEA 2000 over Wi-Fi. Suddenly your phone shows everything your MFD does. No cables, no paid cloud service, no monthly fee. Just a $250 box that does one job and does it well. We've had a YDNR-02 on Yoto for three years. ## Why It Just Works The pitch is "plug it into your NMEA 2000 backbone and it works." That's actually true. **Setup is a web page.** Plug it into the N2K backbone, give it power, and connect it to your boat's existing Wi-Fi network. Browse to its IP from any device on that network and configure SSID join, output protocols, and which sentences to publish. Save. Done. No app, no account, no firmware update flow that requires their cloud. The web interface is functional, fast, and built like 2010 — which on a boat is a feature, not a bug. It loads on a flaky Starlink connection or no connection at all. **It doesn't drift.** In three years, we've rebooted it maybe four times — all because we power-cycled the whole nav station for unrelated work. It hasn't lost configuration. It hasn't required a firmware patch to keep working. It hasn't gotten slower over time. **It just shows up.** Every time we step aboard, every device that's ever connected to the Yoto network can find the YDNR-02 at its known IP and start receiving N2K data. We have never had to debug "why isn't my chart app showing depth?" in three years. This is what good marine electronics feel like: present, reliable, invisible. ## What We Use It For - **Backup chart plotter on a phone** when we want to check a route or anchorage from the cockpit without going to the helm - **Crew can see speed, wind, and depth** from anywhere on the boat - **Signal K integration** — our Raspberry Pi pulls the YDNR-02 stream and republishes everything in Signal K format alongside the rest of our data - **Engine monitoring** — fuel rate, RPM, oil pressure visible on a phone in real time when we're underway - **AIS targets on a tablet** at the nav station as a second screen If you have a Furuno or Garmin or Raymarine MFD, you do not *need* this — your MFD shows everything already. What the YDNR-02 buys you is ubiquity. Every device on the boat becomes a screen for boat data. ## YDNR-02 vs YDWG-02 vs the Rest Yacht Devices has a confusing product matrix. Here's the short version: | Model | What It Is | | ----------- | --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | **YDNR-02** | NMEA 2000 input. Can run as Wi-Fi router (own network) **or** join an existing network. The flexible one. | | **YDWG-02** | NMEA 2000 input. Joins an existing Wi-Fi network only. Simpler. | | **YDWN-02** | NMEA 0183 input + own Wi-Fi | | **YDWR-02** | NMEA 0183 input + joins existing Wi-Fi | | **YDEN-02** | NMEA 2000 input + Ethernet output | We have ours running as a client on the existing Yoto Wi-Fi network — every device on the boat is already on that network, so the data just shows up wherever we want it. The YDNR-02 was the right pick because it is flexible: if the main Wi-Fi ever drops, we can flip it to AP mode and still get data on a phone or tablet directly. That fallback isn't a feature we've needed yet, but it is why we picked the router model over the simpler YDWG. ## The Company Question This is the honest part of the review. **Yacht Devices is opaque about its origins.** Their listed "Yacht Devices Ltd." business address is a mail-forwarding center in Vancouver, BC. The team page lists employees with Russian names — one bio mentions crossing the Atlantic in 2013 as first mate on s/v *Mur Mur*. Marine forums have speculated the engineering is in Russia or Eastern Europe; the company hasn't said either way. We're not raising a security flag here. The YDNR-02 doesn't phone home (we've watched its traffic). It doesn't need cloud accounts. Firmware updates are optional and pulled manually. If you are security-conscious, it is actually one of the *better* devices to put on a boat — it just sits on its local network and does its job. But if knowing where your gear comes from matters to you, **be aware that the answer here is "we don't really know."** Some buyers won't care. Some will. We don't, but we noted it. The product itself is excellent. That's the bottom line. ## If You Want a Western-Distributed Alternative If the Yacht Devices opacity is a dealbreaker, the closest equivalent is the **Digital Yacht NavLink 2** — same job, NMEA 2000 to Wi-Fi, available through Western marine distributors. We haven't run one, but Digital Yacht is a UK-based marine electronics company with a clear corporate trail and a long track record. Slightly different feature set, slightly different price, but in the same ballpark for capability. [→ Digital Yacht NavLink 2 on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/digital-yacht-navlink-2-nmea-2000-to-wifi-gateway-zdignlink?ref=goodkit.io) — $245.99 ## What We'd Change Nothing major. A few minor wishes: - **Better diagnostics on the web page.** It would be nice to see a real-time count of N2K messages flowing through, not just the configured output streams. - **Modern Wi-Fi.** It is 2.4GHz only, single-band. Fine for marine instrument data — which is low-bandwidth — but the network feels dated next to a Starlink or modern access point. - **Status LED that means something.** The single status LED is essentially "I'm on" with no further info. A second LED for "data flowing" would help debug installs. These are quibbles. The device does what it claims and does it for years. ## The Bottom Line Three years in, the YDNR-02 has been a textbook example of marine gear done right: install once, configure once, forget about it. If you want NMEA 2000 data on every device on your boat — phones, tablets, laptops, third-party software — and you don't want a subscription or a cloud account or a fragile setup, this is the box. The company's opacity is the only thing keeping this from being a no-reservations recommendation. We'd buy it again knowing what we know. [→ Yacht Devices YDNR-02 (manufacturer's site)](https://www.yachtd.com/products/wifi%5Frouter.html?ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Zero drift in three years. reliability10 / 10 ease9 / 10 value8 / 10 ### The Best Portable Fan for Boats and RVs: Koonie Review URL: https://www.goodkit.io/the-best-portable-fan-for-boats-and-rvs-koonie-review/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:47:28.000Z ## The Case for a Rechargeable Fan Hardwired 12V fans are the right answer for permanent locations — saloon, pilothouse, bedrooms. We have written about the [Caframo Sirocco](https://www.goodkit.io/caframo-sirocco-ii-vs-sirocco-ii-elite-which-fan-do-you-actually-need/) for that. But there is a different problem they cannot solve: the spot you did not plan for. The hot corner of the cockpit. The forepeak when the wind dies. The galley while you are cooking. The friend's V-berth on a guest night. For those situations, you want a fan with no installation, no wiring, and no fixed location. That is what the Koonie rechargeable clip-on fan solves, and it has earned a permanent spot in our kit after two years aboard. ## What We Run We have had two of these on the boat for two years. They have lived in the cockpit, on the nav station, clipped to bunk rails, on the galley counter, and in every guest cabin we have hosted. They get bounced around and recharged a few times a week. Both still work. Battery life has not noticeably degraded. That is two years of real-world marine use without a single failure — better than we expected from a $30 fan. ## Why It Works **Battery life is the headline.** Fully charged, the Koonie runs through an entire night on low speed. That is the single feature that matters most for a fan you sleep next to. We have tested this dozens of times — start it at bedtime fully charged, wake up with 10-20% battery and the fan still moving air. No need to plug it in overnight, no fan noise from a hardwired motor, no power draw on the house bank. **USB-C charging.** This is the right port on a boat in 2026\. You probably already have USB-C on your nav station, in your bunks, in your shore power adapters. One cable does everything. We never carry a separate charger for the fans — they share the same cable as our phones, headlamps, handheld VHF, and everything else. **Easy to clean.** Marine environments are dusty, salty, and oily. The front grille pops off without tools, the blade comes off the motor shaft with a twist, and you can wipe everything down with a damp cloth in two minutes. Fans you cannot clean become noisy, then stop working. This one stays quiet because we can actually maintain it. **Operation is dead simple.** One button cycles through speeds and off. No app, no Bluetooth, no firmware. The clamp grips firmly to anything from a thin shelf edge to a 1-inch rail, and the head pivots so you can aim it without moving the clamp. ## Where It Fits The Koonie is not a replacement for a permanent fan. If you have a saloon, a master cabin, or any other location where the fan needs to run all day every day, install a [Caframo Sirocco](https://www.goodkit.io/caframo-sirocco-ii-vs-sirocco-ii-elite-which-fan-do-you-actually-need/). The Koonie is what you add on top of that — the fan you grab when you need air *somewhere else*. We keep two on the boat. One lives in the cockpit, the other floats around wherever we need it. Total investment: about $60\. Best $60 we have spent on creature comforts. ## The Bottom Line If you have a boat or RV and you do not own a portable rechargeable fan, you are missing a tool. The Koonie is the one we trust after two years of hard use. Battery lasts overnight, USB-C charges, easy to clean, and built well enough to survive the marine environment. [→ Koonie Rechargeable Fan on Amazon](https://amzn.to/49iQn8W?ref=goodkit.io) ## Common Questions About Portable Boat Fans ### Is a clip-on fan good for a boat? Yes — a rechargeable clip-on fan is one of the most useful comfort items aboard. It clamps anywhere, runs off its own battery so it never touches your house bank, and moves to whatever hot corner you are stuck in. The things that matter: battery life long enough to run a full night, and USB-C charging so it shares a cable with the rest of your gear. ### How do you power a fan on a boat without wiring? You don't have to. A rechargeable fan like the Koonie has its own internal battery and charges over USB-C, so there is no wiring and no draw on your 12V system — top it off a couple of times a week off any USB port. For a permanent, always-on fan you would instead hardwire a 12V unit like the [Caframo Sirocco](https://www.goodkit.io/caframo-sirocco-ii-vs-sirocco-ii-elite-which-fan-do-you-actually-need/). ### Portable fan or hardwired 12V fan — which do you need? Both, and for different jobs. A hardwired fan (the [Caframo Sirocco](https://www.goodkit.io/caframo-sirocco-ii-vs-sirocco-ii-elite-which-fan-do-you-actually-need/)) for the spots a fan runs every day; a rechargeable clip-on like the Koonie for everywhere else — the cockpit, the forepeak, a guest cabin. They solve different problems, and most boats want one of each. ### How long does the battery last? On low speed the Koonie runs through an entire night on a single charge — the one spec that actually matters for a fan you sleep next to. After two years aboard, ours still make it to morning with charge to spare. The verdict All-night air, clamps anywhere. battery10 / 10 airflow8 / 10 mounting9 / 10 value9 / 10 ### Wera Self-Setting Joker Review: Great Idea, Disappointing Execution URL: https://www.goodkit.io/wera-joker-wrench-set-review-great-idea-disappointing-in-practice/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T16:04:06.000Z ## Wera makes great tools. This one has problems. We're big fans of Wera. Their screwdriver sets, Zyklop ratchets, and bit kits are excellent — well-made, thoughtfully designed, and they last. So when we got the 6004 Joker self-setting — a ratcheting wrench with a spring-loaded jaw that grips the fastener automatically — we were excited. On paper it solves a real problem: the jaw adjusts to the fastener, locks on, and ratchets without backing off. No thumb wheel, no repositioning. In practice, it doesn't deliver where it counts. ## Where it falls short The situations where you actually need a ratcheting adjustable wrench are almost always the hard ones — tight spaces, awkward angles, fasteners you can't see. And in exactly those situations, the self-setting Joker starts playing jokes. **It slips off.** The self-setting jaw doesn't grip like a real wrench. At an odd angle or under real torque, it lets go — not every time, but enough to lose your trust. **The ratcheting arc is too wide.** In a tight space — exactly where you want a ratcheting wrench — the swing needed to re-engage the next tooth is often more room than you have. That defeats the entire purpose of the tool. **It's harder than finding the right wrench.** After wrestling with it in a few difficult spots, we kept putting it down and digging out a standard combination wrench or a crow's foot. Faster, more reliable, less frustration. ## Where it works fine On easy-access fasteners with room to swing, it's a nice tool. Build quality is classic Wera — solid, good finish, comfortable. The holding function that keeps it on the nut when you pull away is genuinely clever. Light assembly, furniture, accessible automotive work: you'd probably like it. ## The bottom line What we liked - We love Wera tools generally - Self-setting concept is genuinely clever - Classic Wera build quality What we didn't - Slips in tight spaces - Ratcheting arc is too wide - More trouble than a standard wrench when it matters A great idea that doesn't survive contact with the situations where you actually need it. In easy spots it's a nice wrench; in hard spots it slips, can't complete its arc, and costs you more time than a traditional wrench. It's been relegated to novelty status in our toolbox. We wanted to love it. We can't recommend it. ## Check the options We do not recommend the self-setting Joker for tight-space work, but the current price and conventional alternatives are here for comparison. **Affiliate disclosure:** As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - [Wera 6004 Joker self-setting wrenches on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Wera+6004+Joker+self-setting+wrench+set&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Standard SAE and metric combination wrench sets on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=combination+wrench+set+SAE+metric&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Great idea. Pass. concept9 / 10 tight-space use3 / 10 build7 / 10 value4 / 10 ### Victron Cerbo GX Setup Guide: From Install to Remote Monitoring URL: https://www.goodkit.io/victron-cerbo-gx-setup-guide-from-install-to-remote-monitoring/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T15:35:23.000Z ## What the Cerbo GX Does The Victron Cerbo GX is the brain of a Victron monitoring system. It connects to your solar charge controllers, battery monitors, inverters, and tank sensors over VE.Direct, VE.Can, and VE.Bus — then gives you a single dashboard showing everything happening in your electrical system. It also pushes that data to Victron's VRM portal over the internet, so you can check your battery state of charge, solar production, and shore power status from anywhere in the world. Lose AC at the dock while you're at the grocery store? You'll know. We've run a Cerbo GX MK2 on **Yoto** (our 2009 Dean 441 catamaran) for years. It is the single most-checked piece of monitoring hardware aboard. This guide walks through exactly how we have it set up, what we wish we'd known before installing, and how to get the most out of it. > !\[PLACEHOLDER: Photo of the Cerbo GX MK2 mounted near the electrical panel on Yoto\] ## Where the Cerbo Fits in Our System On Yoto, the Cerbo aggregates data from: - **Victron Quattro II** inverter/charger (via VE.Bus) - **Victron SmartShunt 500A** house battery monitor (via VE.Direct) - **Multiple Victron SmartSolar MPPT** charge controllers (via VE.Direct) - **Mopeka Pro Check** tank sensors (via Bluetooth, USB Bluetooth dongle on the Cerbo) - **Two temperature probes** monitoring battery compartment and engine room - **Generator start/stop** signaling (relay output) All of that data goes three places at once: 1. **VRM cloud portal** for remote monitoring 2. **GX Touch 50 display** at the nav station for at-a-glance status 3. **Home Assistant** running on a Raspberry Pi aboard, via MQTT The Cerbo isn't doing anything fancy — it's a router for marine system data. But because it speaks every Victron protocol natively and exposes everything via MQTT, it's the cleanest way to get that data anywhere else you want it. > !\[PLACEHOLDER: Network diagram showing Cerbo connections to Quattro II, SmartShunt, MPPTs, GX Touch, and the Pi running Home Assistant\] ## Cerbo GX vs MK2 vs Ekrano vs Cerbo S Victron has muddied the lineup over the past few years. Here's the short version: | Model | When to Buy | | ----------------------- | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | **Cerbo GX MK2** | The default. Faster CPU than original Cerbo, better Wi-Fi, more RAM. Buy this. | | **Cerbo GX (original)** | Don't buy new — buy MK2 instead. Used market is fine. | | **Cerbo S GX** | Stripped-down, fewer ports, cheaper. Only worth it for very small systems with 1-2 devices. | | **Ekrano GX** | Cerbo + built-in 7" touchscreen. Good if you want one device instead of Cerbo + GX Touch. | We run the **MK2 + a separate GX Touch 50** because the GX Touch can be mounted somewhere convenient at the nav station while the Cerbo lives near the electrical panel where the wiring lives. If you want a single device at one location, the Ekrano is cleaner. → [Victron Cerbo GX MK2 on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-cerbo-gx-mk2-bpp900451100?ref=goodkit.io) — $272.85 ## What You Need For a basic install: | Item | Approx Price | Why | | --------------------------- | ------------- | -------------------------------------------- | | Cerbo GX MK2 | $273 | The brain | | GX Touch 50 (optional) | $260 | Local 5" touchscreen display | | VE.Direct cables (2-3) | $10 each | One per device. Various lengths (0.3m to 5m) | | Power cable | included | 8-70V DC input | | Ethernet cable | a few dollars | If you're going wired (recommended) | | At least one Victron device | varies | SmartShunt, MPPT, or MultiPlus | **Optional but useful:** - **GX Tank 140** (\~$130) — adds 4 resistive tank level inputs if you don't have BLE Mopekas - **USB-to-VE.Direct adapter** ($25) — for adding more VE.Direct devices beyond the 2 built-in ports - **USB Bluetooth dongle** (\~$15) — required if you want the Cerbo to read Mopeka tank sensors directly - **Temperature sensors** ($20 each) — Victron-branded, plug into the Cerbo's temp inputs Total realistic system cost on the low end: **around $300 + your existing Victron gear**. For a fully-featured install with display and tank monitoring: **$650-800**. ## Choosing a Mounting Location The Cerbo isn't waterproof. It needs to be in a dry locker or behind a panel. Beyond that, three things matter: **1\. Cable runs.** Every VE.Direct device, the VE.Bus to your MultiPlus, and the Ethernet to your network all terminate at the Cerbo. Mount it where those cables can reach without absurd routing. We mounted ours about 18 inches from the SmartShunt and Quattro II, and the Ethernet runs under the salon sole to a switch at the nav station. **2\. Access.** You'll occasionally plug in USB devices, factory-reset, or just check the status LEDs. A locker that requires removing five screws to open is a bad choice. Behind a hinged panel is ideal. **3\. Heat and humidity.** Don't mount it in the engine room. Don't mount it next to the inverter where it cooks at 50°C in the summer. A salon locker or near the nav station works best. > !\[PLACEHOLDER: Photo of Cerbo mounted in the locker on Yoto, showing cable routing\] ## Power Wiring The Cerbo runs on 8-70V DC and draws about 3W. Wire it to a fused circuit on your house bank — we use a 2A inline fuse from a circuit breaker on the DC distribution panel. The included power cable has ferrule terminals. Don't strip and tin and crimp into a generic terminal block — Victron specifically provides ferrules so the connection stays gas-tight in marine environments. Use the included cable. Keep the Cerbo on the **always-on** house bank circuit, not switched. You want it monitoring even when the rest of the boat is off. ## Connecting Devices This is where most people get tripped up. Each Victron device speaks one of three protocols: ### VE.Direct (2 ports on the MK2) Used by: SmartShunt, MPPT solar controllers, Phoenix inverters, Orion XS DC-DC chargers. Each device needs its own cable. The cables come in 0.3m, 0.9m, 1.8m, 3m, 5m, and 10m lengths — buy the right length, don't coil 10 meters of excess in a locker. If you have more than 2 VE.Direct devices (and you will — a typical setup is SmartShunt + 2-3 MPPTs), buy the **USB-to-VE.Direct adapter** ($25) and plug it into one of the Cerbo's USB ports. Adds another VE.Direct port. ### VE.Bus (1 port) Used by: MultiPlus and Quattro inverter/chargers. This is how the Cerbo controls your inverter — remote on/off, charge current limiting, AC input current limit. The cable is RJ45-style. **Important:** the VE.Bus port is also how the GX Touch 50 connects to the Cerbo if you have one. ### VE.Can (1 port) Used by: Lynx Smart BMS, NMEA 2000 networks (with adapter), Skylla-i chargers. You can also bridge to NMEA 2000 here using a **VE.Can to NMEA 2000 cable** ($30). This lets the Cerbo see other NMEA 2000 devices on your boat — depth, wind, AIS — though most installs don't need this. We use it on Yoto to pull in tank levels from a Maretron module on the N2K backbone. ### USB GPS dongles (for putting your boat's location on VRM), cellular modems for backup connectivity, Bluetooth dongles for Mopeka tank sensors, Zigbee or Z-Wave radios for Home Assistant integration. ### Tank inputs Four resistive tank level inputs on the Cerbo itself. These accept standard 0-180Ω, 10-180Ω, or 240-30Ω senders. Most factory tank senders work directly. If you have more than 4 tanks (or you're using BLE Mopekas), the inputs go unused. ### Temperature inputs Two temperature inputs accept Victron-branded probes (\~$20 each) for monitoring battery, alternator, fridge, or anywhere else you care about. > !\[PLACEHOLDER: Close-up of Cerbo back panel showing each port labeled\] ## Network Setup Connect the Cerbo to your boat's network via **Ethernet (recommended) or Wi-Fi**. **Ethernet** is more reliable. The built-in Wi-Fi antenna is weak — fine if your router is in the same locker, marginal across a saloon, useless across the boat. We hard-wire ours. **Wi-Fi** works if your router is close. Settings are in the Cerbo's local web interface (point a browser at its IP address) or the GX Touch. ### First-time setup 1. Power up the Cerbo 2. From a phone or laptop on the same network, browse to `http://venus.local` or the Cerbo's IP 3. The local web UI gives you Settings → Wi-Fi or Settings → Ethernet to configure the network 4. Once online, the Cerbo automatically registers with VRM 5. Log in at [**vrm.victronenergy.com**](http://vrm.victronenergy.com/?ref=goodkit.io) with your Victron account 6. Your system appears under "Installations" within a few minutes **Set a static IP or a DHCP reservation.** You'll want to know where to find the Cerbo on your network for MQTT, Home Assistant, and troubleshooting. ## What You See in VRM > !\[PLACEHOLDER: Screenshot of the VRM dashboard for Yoto showing battery SOC, solar production, AC loads\] The VRM dashboard shows: - **Battery state of charge, voltage, current, and time-to-empty** (from the SmartShunt) - **Solar production** — total and per-controller if you have multiple MPPTs - **Shore power / generator input** — AC voltage, current, and frequency - **AC loads and DC loads** — what's drawing power right now - **Tank levels** — fresh, black, gray, fuel (if connected) - **Temperature sensors** — battery, fridge, etc. - **Alarms and notifications** — low battery, high temperature, lost communication ### The historical data is the killer feature After a month of use, the **Advanced** tab gives you graphs of every metric on any time scale. We use this constantly: - "How much solar did we make last week vs the week before?" → tells us if a panel is shading or failing - "What's our average daily consumption at anchor?" → tells us how to size the bank - "What's the lowest the battery got overnight?" → tells us if we need to run the generator earlier You can also export data as CSV, set up custom alerts, and share access with crew or technicians. ## MQTT and Home Assistant This is where the Cerbo goes from "nice display" to "platform you can build on." The Cerbo publishes every data point to an internal MQTT broker. Enable it under **Settings → Services → MQTT on LAN (SSL)**. On Yoto, we have Home Assistant running on a Raspberry Pi connecting to the Cerbo's MQTT broker, pulling in topics like: ``` N//system/0/Dc/Battery/Soc N//system/0/Dc/Battery/Voltage N//system/0/Dc/Pv/Power N//system/0/Ac/Consumption/L1/Power ``` (Where `` is your unique Cerbo identifier, found in the local web UI.) Once those topics flow into Home Assistant, you can: - **Build dashboards** that combine Victron data with Shelly relay states, Mopeka tank levels, and weather - **Create automations** like: - Anchor light on at sunset - Cabin fans speed up when interior temperature exceeds 82°F - Telegram alert if battery SOC drops below 30% - Generator start command if SOC < 20% and no solar after 8pm - **Display everything on a tablet** mounted at the nav station (we use a wall-mounted iPad) The Cerbo also supports **Modbus TCP** if you prefer that over MQTT, and **Node-RED** can be installed directly on the Cerbo via the Venus OS Large image — useful for keeping automations on the device itself rather than running a separate Pi. We chose the Pi route because we wanted Home Assistant for things beyond the Victron data, but Node-RED on Venus is the cleanest pure-Victron automation path. → [How we use Shelly + Home Assistant on the boat](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/) ## Signal K Integration If you run Signal K (the open-source marine data hub), the Cerbo can pipe its data in. Signal K has a dedicated Victron Venus plugin that connects to the Cerbo's MQTT broker and republishes everything in Signal K format alongside your NMEA 2000 data, AIS, weather, and so on. This matters if you want one unified data layer for *everything* on the boat — navigation data and electrical data in one schema. We run Signal K on a separate Pi from the Home Assistant Pi (overkill, probably, but it keeps the concerns separated). ## Common Issues After a few years of running this, here are the things we've actually hit: **Wi-Fi drops.** The built-in antenna is weak. Solution: hardwire Ethernet, or add a USB Wi-Fi dongle with a real antenna. **VE.Direct cable limit.** Only 2 ports on the MK2\. If you outgrow it (we did), buy the USB-to-VE.Direct adapter — works perfectly, no caveats. **Firmware updates can change behavior.** The Cerbo auto-updates from VRM by default. Once, a firmware change moved an MQTT topic name and broke our Home Assistant integration. You can pin a firmware version in **Settings → General → Firmware → Auto update** if stability matters more than new features. **MQTT broker disconnects on poor LAN.** If your boat network drops out, the local MQTT broker needs a reconnect. Home Assistant handles this automatically, but custom integrations may not. Plan for it. **Tank inputs are picky about senders.** Some aftermarket tank senders read inverted, or use non-standard resistance ranges. Configure the curve manually under **Settings → Tank Sensor Setup**. **No way to trigger remote shutdown.** You can monitor everything but you can't, e.g., remotely turn off your fridge if it's draining the battery. For that, you need Shelly relays (or similar) controlled via Home Assistant. **GX Touch sometimes hangs.** Pull power and re-plug. Annoying but rare. **VRM history occasionally has gaps.** If your internet drops, the Cerbo buffers locally, then re-uploads when reconnected. Usually works. Occasionally a few minutes of data is lost. ## What We'd Do Differently If we were starting over: - **Run Ethernet from day one.** We tried Wi-Fi first. Spent two weeks troubleshooting drops before just running cable. - **Buy the GX Tank 140 only if you need it.** We use Mopekas for everything now. The GX Tank gives you 4 hardwired tank inputs for $130 — useful if you have factory senders, useless if you're going BLE. - **Mount it where you can see the LEDs.** Status LEDs are the fastest way to confirm "yes, the Cerbo is alive" when something else seems wrong. ## Performance and Uptime In 2+ years aboard, the Cerbo has had maybe a dozen reboots — most from us pulling power for unrelated work. It's never failed unexpectedly. Firmware updates have caused two minor issues (one fixed itself, one we rolled back). Total downtime: less than a day, all-time. For a piece of marine electronics that lives in a salt-air environment and runs 24/7/365, that's exceptional. ## The Bottom Line If you have any Victron equipment, the Cerbo GX ties it together and gives you visibility you cannot get any other way. The remote monitoring alone is worth the price — knowing your battery state from 1,000 miles away is not a luxury, it is peace of mind. Start with the Cerbo and a SmartShunt. Add solar and an inverter when you're ready. The platform grows with you, and the data you accumulate becomes more valuable over time. → [Victron Cerbo GX MK2 on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-cerbo-gx-mk2-bpp900451100?ref=goodkit.io) — $272.85 Want this data driving automations instead of just dashboards? Our [Home Assistant setup guide](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-boat-rv-setup-guide/) shows where the GX fits in a boat or RV Home Assistant install. ## Related Articles - [Best Marine Battery Monitor: Victron SmartShunt 500A Review](https://www.goodkit.io/best-marine-battery-monitor-victron-smartshunt-500a-review/) - [How to Wire a Victron SmartShunt: Step-by-Step](https://www.goodkit.io/how-to-wire-a-victron-smartshunt-step-by-step-install-guide/) - [Victron vs Renogy: Which Solar Setup?](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-vs-renogy-which-solar-setup-is-right-for-your-rv/) - [Home Assistant + Shelly on 12V DC](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/) Parts & tools Cerbo GX$305 GX Touch 50 (optional)$210 RJ45 VE.Bus cable$12 VE.Direct cables ×2$22 Inline fuse + holder$8 ### Best Handheld Marine VHF Radio: Standard Horizon HX210 vs Icom IC-M25 URL: https://www.goodkit.io/best-handheld-marine-vhf-radio-standard-horizon-hx210-vs-icom-ic-m25/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:47:42.000Z ## You Need a Handheld VHF Your fixed-mount VHF radio is the primary communication system on your boat. But a handheld VHF is the backup that saves you when the fixed mount fails, when you are in the dinghy, or when you need to communicate from the deck without running below. Every boat should have at least one handheld VHF aboard. If you are cruising offshore, carry two. ## What Actually Matters in a Handheld VHF Most handheld VHF radios sold today are fine. The feature wars between manufacturers are mostly irrelevant for practical use. Here is what actually matters: - **It must float.** You will drop it in the water eventually. A radio that sinks is a radio you no longer have. Non-negotiable. - **Waterproof rating.** IPX7 minimum (submersible to 1 meter for 30 minutes). IPX8 is better. JIS7 and JIS8 are the equivalent Japanese ratings — same thing. - **Battery life.** 10+ hours of typical use (90/5/5 duty cycle: 90% standby, 5% receive, 5% transmit). Rechargeable with a standard charging cradle, not proprietary nonsense. - **6 watts transmit power.** This is the legal maximum for marine VHF. All decent handhelds hit this. Range is about 3-5 miles depending on conditions and antenna height. - **Channel 16 quick access.** One-button access to the emergency/hailing channel. Every marine VHF has this, but verify the button is easy to find by feel in the dark. ## Our Pick: Standard Horizon HX210 We carry the Standard Horizon HX210 aboard. It floats, it is IPX8 rated (submersible beyond 1 meter), the battery lasts about 12 hours of normal use, and it is simple to operate. No menus to navigate in an emergency — everything important is accessible with physical buttons. The HX210 also has a built-in FM radio, which is a surprisingly useful feature at anchor or on the beach. Not a reason to buy it, but a nice bonus. At around $80-90, it is not the cheapest handheld VHF, but it is the best value when you factor in the float capability and build quality. Standard Horizon has been making marine radios for decades and the reliability shows. [→ Standard Horizon HX210 on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/standard-horizon-hx210-6w-floating-handheld-marine-vhf-transceiver-hx210?ref=goodkit.io) ## Runner Up: Icom IC-M25 The Icom IC-M25 is lighter and slimmer than the HX210, which makes it easier to clip to a PFD. It also floats, is IPX7 rated, and has a USB charging port instead of a proprietary cradle — a real advantage if you are cruising and want to charge from any USB source. The trade-off is a slightly shorter battery life (about 11 hours) and the body feels less rugged than the Standard Horizon. Both are good radios. The Icom wins on portability, the Standard Horizon wins on durability. ## What About DSC? Digital Selective Calling (DSC) lets you send a digital distress signal with your GPS position at the push of a button. On a fixed-mount radio, DSC is essential and you should absolutely have it configured with an MMSI number. On a handheld, DSC is a nice-to-have but not critical. The handhelds with DSC (like the Standard Horizon HX890) cost $200+ and are larger and heavier. Your fixed mount should be your primary DSC radio. The handheld is your backup voice radio. ## Tips for Carrying a Handheld VHF - Keep it in a waterproof bag with a lanyard when in the dinghy. Even floating radios are hard to spot in waves. - Program your local channels before you need them — harbor control, marina, bridge tenders, tow services. - Test the battery monthly. A dead handheld in the ditch bag is worse than no handheld at all. - Carry a spare battery pack if you are going offshore. Cold weather kills battery life. ## The Bottom Line Buy the Standard Horizon HX210 if you want the most reliable, durable floating handheld VHF for under $100\. Buy the Icom IC-M25 if weight and USB charging matter more to you. Either way, put one in your ditch bag and one in the cockpit locker. This is not gear to cheap out on. ## Related Articles - [AI Tools for Marine Navigation and Boat Monitoring](https://www.goodkit.io/ai-tools-for-marine-navigation-and-boat-monitoring/) - [TimeZero Review](https://www.goodkit.io/timezero-review-the-best-integrated-marine-navigation-software-with-some-frustrating-gaps/) - [Caframo Sirocco II vs Elite](https://www.goodkit.io/caframo-sirocco-ii-vs-sirocco-ii-elite-which-fan-do-you-actually-need/) The verdict The HX210, for most. floats + strobeHX210 batteryHX210 built-in GPSIC-M25 ### RV Winterization Checklist: Every Step to Protect Your Rig URL: https://www.goodkit.io/rv-winterization-checklist-every-step-to-protect-your-rig/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T16:04:12.000Z ## Why This Checklist Exists Frozen pipes, cracked fittings, and dead batteries are expensive and preventable. If you store your RV for winter — or even just let it sit for a few cold weeks — you need to winterize it properly. This checklist covers everything. Print it out and work through it. ## Water System This is where most winter damage happens. Water expands when it freezes. Anything with water in it can crack. 1. **Drain the fresh water tank completely.** Open the low-point drain valves (usually under the RV, one for hot, one for cold). 2. **Drain the water heater.** Turn it off, let it cool, open the drain plug and the pressure relief valve. Do not skip the relief valve — it lets air in so the tank actually drains. 3. **Bypass the water heater.** Your RV should have a bypass valve kit. If it does not, install one — otherwise you are pumping 6-10 gallons of antifreeze into the water heater for no reason. 4. **Pump RV antifreeze through the system.** Connect the water pump inlet to a jug of non-toxic RV antifreeze. Run every faucet (hot and cold), the shower, the outdoor shower, and the toilet until you see pink coming out. 5. **Pour antifreeze down every drain.** About half a cup in each sink, shower, and the toilet bowl. This protects the P-traps. 6. **Leave low-point drains open.** Any residual water can drip out instead of freezing in the lines. ## Waste System 1. **Dump and flush both tanks.** Black tank first, then gray. Use a tank rinser if you have one. 2. **Leave the valves closed after dumping.** You do not want critters climbing in through an open waste pipe. 3. **Add a cup of RV antifreeze to each tank** through the toilet (black) and a sink drain (gray). This protects the valve seals and any residual water in the tanks. [If your waste valve is already showing wear, replace it before winter storage](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-waste-valves-why-the-twis-loc-outlasts-everything-else/) ## Batteries 1. **Fully charge the battery bank before storage.** A half-charged battery freezes at a much higher temperature than a full one. Lithium batteries should be stored at 50-80% charge per manufacturer recommendations. 2. **Disconnect the batteries** or turn off the main disconnect switch. Parasitic draws (LP detectors, control boards) will slowly kill your batteries over winter. 3. **If storing lead-acid batteries, check water levels** and top off with distilled water. Consider a maintenance charger if you have shore power available at your storage location. 4. **For lithium banks:** Most lithium batteries have a low-temperature cutoff that prevents charging below freezing. Do not try to charge a lithium battery below 32°F — you will permanently damage the cells. If your storage location gets below freezing, bring the batteries inside or use heated battery blankets. [More on battery monitoring and maintenance](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/) ## Exterior 1. **Inspect and reseal the roof.** Check every seam, vent, and antenna mount for cracks in the sealant. Dicor self-leveling lap sealant is the standard for RV roofs. One tube and 30 minutes can prevent thousands in water damage. 2. **Clean and treat slide seals.** Wipe down the slide-out seals and apply a rubber seal conditioner. Dry, cracked seals let water in. 3. **Cover or close vents.** Vent covers keep rain and snow out. If you do not have covers, close the vents and consider foam vent insulators. 4. **Check tire pressure and consider tire covers.** UV degrades sidewalls over months of sun exposure. Inflate to the sidewall maximum for storage — they will lose pressure slowly over winter. ## Interior 1. **Clean out all food.** Everything. Canned goods can freeze and burst. 2. **Leave cabinet and fridge doors open.** Air circulation prevents mold and mildew. 3. **Place moisture absorbers** (DampRid or similar) in the main cabin, bathroom, and any enclosed spaces. 4. **Turn off the LP gas** at the tank valve. ## Spring De-Winterization When you bring it back in spring: flush the antifreeze by running fresh water through every fixture until it runs clear, sanitize the fresh water system with a dilute bleach solution (1/4 cup per 15 gallons), fill and drain twice, then refill with fresh water. Check every connection for leaks before your first trip. ## Winterization supplies **Affiliate disclosure:** As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - [Non-toxic RV antifreeze on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=non+toxic+RV+antifreeze&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [RV water-heater bypass kits on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=RV+water+heater+bypass+kit&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Dicor self-leveling roof sealant on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Dicor+self+leveling+lap+sealant&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [RV slide-seal conditioner on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=RV+slide+out+rubber+seal+conditioner&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Moisture absorbers on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=DampRid+moisture+absorber&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Battery maintainers on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=12V+battery+maintainer&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ## Related Articles - [RV Waste Valves: Why the Twis-Loc Outlasts Everything Else](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-waste-valves-why-the-twis-loc-outlasts-everything-else/) - [RV Battery Monitoring: What Actually Works](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/) - [Best RV Tank Monitoring Sensors](https://www.goodkit.io/best-rv-tank-monitoring-sensors-2026/) - [RV Solar System Sizing](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-solar-system-sizing-how-to-calculate-what-you-need/) - [Best Mail Forwarding & Virtual Mailbox Services for RVers](https://www.goodkit.io/best-mail-forwarding-services-for-full-time-rvers-and-cruisers-2026/) ### Best 12V Fridge for RVs and Boats: Engel vs Dometic and the Rest URL: https://www.goodkit.io/best-12v-fridge-for-rvs-and-boats-compressor-fridges-compared/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T16:04:07.000Z ## Three Fridges, Three Jobs We do not have one fridge recommendation. We have three, because the right 12V fridge depends entirely on how you use it. We run Engel drawer units built into the RV, an Engel MT45 portable that moves between the boat and the RV, and a Dometic CFX5 75DZ aboard the boat. Each one earns its spot for different reasons. ## Engel Drawer Fridges — Best Built-In for RVs The Engel drawer-style fridge/freezers are what we run in our RV, and they are the best built-in option we have found. Slide-out drawer design means you are not digging through a top-loading chest to find something buried at the bottom. Everything is visible and accessible. Engel uses Sawafuji swing motor compressors — a fundamentally different design from the reciprocating compressors in most other 12V fridges. The swing motor has only one moving part, which means less vibration, less noise, and a much longer service life. These compressors are legendary in the overlanding and marine world for running for a decade or more without issues. Power draw is excellent. The swing motor is inherently efficient, and the drawer design loses less cold air when you open it compared to a top-lid chest. In the RV, where you are opening the fridge dozens of times a day, that matters. The downside is price — Engel drawer units cost more than comparable Dometic or ARB built-ins. And they are harder to find at retail. But if you are building out an RV for full-time use, this is the fridge that will still be working five years from now without complaint. ## Engel MT45 — Best Portable That Goes Anywhere The MT45 is a 40-liter chest-style portable with the same Sawafuji swing motor compressor. We have had ours for years and it has lived in the RV, on the boat, in the truck, and at camp. It gets moved constantly and it does not care. The swing motor handles being tilted, bounced, and run at odd angles — situations that would kill a conventional compressor fridge. This is why Engel portables are the standard for off-road and marine use. You do not have to worry about keeping it level. It runs on 12V or 110V, draws about 1-2 amps at 12V once it reaches temperature, and is genuinely quiet. Not "quiet for a fridge" quiet — actually quiet. You can sleep next to it. The MT45 is our go-to recommendation for anyone who needs one fridge that does everything. It is not the cheapest, it is not the biggest, but it is the one we trust to work every time regardless of where we put it. ## Dometic CFX5 75DZ — Best Dual-Zone for Boats The Dometic CFX5 is what we run as the supplemental fridge/freezer aboard the boat. The dual-zone design is the reason we picked it — fridge on one side, freezer on the other, independently controlled. On a boat where provisioning for multi-day passages means you need both refrigeration and frozen storage, this layout is ideal. At 75 liters it holds a lot. The two separate lids mean you can grab something from the fridge side without exposing the freezer to warm air. Build quality is solid, the compressor is reliable, and the digital controls are straightforward. Where the Dometic falls short compared to Engel: the reciprocating compressor is less tolerant of extreme angles and vibration, it is louder, and based on our experience, we expect a shorter overall lifespan than the Engel swing motor units. The Dometic also weighs 55 lbs empty, which makes it less portable than the Engel MT45. For a permanent installation on a boat or in a large RV where dual-zone matters, the CFX5 is a great choice. For anything that moves around or gets rough treatment, Engel wins. [Read our full Dometic CFX5 review](https://www.goodkit.io/dometic-cfx5-75dz-review-3-years-on-a-boat/) ## What About Everything Else? ### ARB ARB makes solid portable fridges popular in the overlanding world. Good build quality, decent compressors, and a strong reputation in Australia where they are made. The ARB Elements and Zero series are competitive with Dometic. We have not run one long-term, but they are a legitimate option, especially if you find one on sale. ### Alpicool Budget compressor fridges starting around $150\. They work — we will give them that. But the compressors are louder, less efficient, and we would not trust them for full-time use. Fine for weekend camping or as a secondary drinks cooler. Not something we would rely on. ### Whynter Whynter makes dual-zone portables at a lower price than Dometic. Build quality is a step below, but they have a following in the RV community. Worth looking at if the Dometic is out of budget and you need dual-zone. ### Iceco Iceco has been gaining popularity as a mid-range option. Danfoss/Secop compressors in some models, which is a good sign. We have not tested one, but the specs and user feedback are promising. Keep an eye on this brand. ## Absorption Fridges: Just Replace Them If your RV came with a propane/electric absorption fridge and you are running on battery power for any meaningful time, replace it. Absorption fridges are inefficient, hate being off-level, and cannot keep up in hot weather. A compressor fridge replacement will cut your fridge power consumption by 50-70% and actually hold temperature when it is 95°F outside. Dometic CRX and Vitrifrigo C-series are the most common drop-in compressor replacements for standard RV fridge cutouts. ## The Bottom Line Buy Engel if you want the fridge that lasts forever and handles abuse — drawer style for a built-in RV install, MT45 for a portable that goes anywhere. Buy Dometic CFX5 if you need dual-zone capacity for a boat or large fixed installation. Skip the budget brands for full-time use. A fridge that fails when you are three days from a grocery store is not a bargain. ## Where to buy the fridges Availability changes often, particularly for Engel built-ins. These links go to the current manufacturer range or retailer results. **Affiliate disclosure:** As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - [Engel MT45 portable fridge/freezer on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Engel+MT45+fridge+freezer&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Engel built-in fridge/freezer range — official store](https://engelcoolers.com/collections/built-in-fridge-freezers?ref=goodkit.io) - [Dometic CFX5 75DZ on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHXMT21Z?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [ARB portable fridge/freezers on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ARB+portable+fridge+freezer&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [ICECO dual-zone fridge/freezers on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ICECO+dual+zone+fridge+freezer&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Alpicool portable fridge/freezers on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Alpicool+portable+fridge+freezer&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Whynter dual-zone fridge/freezers on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Whynter+dual+zone+portable+fridge+freezer&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ## Related Articles - [Dometic CFX5 75DZ Review: 3 Years on a Boat](https://www.goodkit.io/dometic-cfx5-75dz-review-3-years-on-a-boat/) - [RV Solar System Sizing](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-solar-system-sizing-how-to-calculate-what-you-need/) - [RV Battery Monitoring: What Actually Works](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/) - [Victron vs Renogy: Which Solar Setup?](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-vs-renogy-which-solar-setup-is-right-for-your-rv/) ## Don't Forget the Install Hardware If you go with a Dometic CFX5 (75DZ, 95DZ, or 100), Dupree Products carries the OEM slide mount kits and protective covers. The slide mount lets you pull the fridge fully out for cleaning and access, which matters more than you'd think. [→ CFX5 75DZ Slide Mount Kit on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/dometic-slide-mount-kit-f-cfx3-cfx5-75-dz-9610000653?ref=goodkit.io) [→ CFX5 95DZ/100 Slide Mount Kit on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/dometic-slide-mount-kit-f-cfx3-cfx5-95dz-100-coolers-9610000655?ref=goodkit.io) A fridge keeps the food cold; airflow keeps you comfortable. For the fan side of staying cool aboard, see our [Koonie portable fan review](https://www.goodkit.io/the-best-portable-fan-for-boats-and-rvs-koonie-review/). [→ CFX5 Protective Covers (25, 45, 95DZ sizes)](https://dupreeproducts.com/search?q=cfx5+protective&ref=goodkit.io) ### How to Wire a Victron SmartShunt: Step-by-Step Install Guide URL: https://www.goodkit.io/how-to-wire-a-victron-smartshunt-step-by-step-install-guide/ Last updated: 2026-07-13T16:23:42.000Z ## Before You Start This guide covers wiring a Victron [SmartShunt](https://www.goodkit.io/best-marine-battery-monitor-victron-smartshunt-500a-review/) 500A on a 12V system. The same principles apply to 24V and 48V systems — the SmartShunt does not care about system voltage. What matters is that every amp flowing in and out of your battery bank passes through the shunt. You will need: - Victron SmartShunt 500A (comes with shunt, wiring harness, and fuse) - Appropriately sized battery cable for your system (typically 2/0 AWG or 4/0 AWG) - Ring terminals and a crimping tool - A wrench for the shunt bolts (M10) - 30 minutes ## The Wiring Rule The SmartShunt has two sides: **BATTERY** and **SYSTEM**. - **BATTERY side:** connects to the negative terminal of your battery bank. Only the battery negative cable goes here. Nothing else. - **SYSTEM side:** connects to everything else — all negative loads, all charging sources, all ground connections. This is the most important concept. If any negative wire connects directly to the battery negative post instead of going through the shunt, those amps are invisible to the monitor. Your state of charge will drift and become inaccurate. ![Victron SmartShunt 500A wiring diagram showing battery side, system side, sense wire, and common mistakes](https://storage.ghost.io/c/55/3f/553fc35e-fadc-4f30-9b7a-6e7635a4b840/content/images/2026/04/smartshunt-diagram-v2.png) **Wiring diagram:** Battery negative connects to the BATTERY side of the shunt. Everything else connects to the SYSTEM side via the negative bus bar. The red dashed line is the sense wire to battery positive. ## Step by Step ### 1\. Disconnect the Battery Turn off all loads and disconnect the positive battery terminal first, then the negative. You are working on the negative side, so disconnecting power prevents accidental shorts. ### 2\. Mount the Shunt The SmartShunt mounts with two M6 screws. Pick a location close to your battery bank where the cable runs are short. The shunt does not need ventilation or cooling — it generates negligible heat at normal loads. ### 3\. Wire the Battery Side Run a cable from your battery bank's negative terminal to the **BATTERY** side of the shunt (the side with the single bolt marked "BATTERY MINUS"). Use the same gauge cable as your main battery cables — this carries your full system current. Crimp a ring terminal, bolt it to the shunt, and torque the M10 nut firmly. A loose connection here means voltage drop and heat. ### 4\. Wire the System Side Move all existing negative connections — load bus bar, inverter negative, charge controller negative, shore charger negative, everything — to the **SYSTEM** side of the shunt. If you have a negative bus bar, the cleanest approach is to run one heavy cable from the shunt SYSTEM side to the bus bar, and connect everything to the bus bar. ### 5\. Connect the Sense Wire The SmartShunt comes with a red sense wire and an inline fuse. Connect this wire from the B+ pin on the shunt's wiring harness to the **positive** terminal of your battery. This lets the shunt measure battery voltage. Do not skip the fuse. ### 6\. Connect the Wiring Harness Plug the RJ10 connector from the wiring harness into the shunt. The other end has a VE.Direct connector if you are connecting to a [Cerbo GX](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-cerbo-gx-setup-guide-from-install-to-remote-monitoring/) or GX Touch. If you are only using Bluetooth, you do not need to connect the VE.Direct end to anything. ### 7\. Reconnect and Configure Reconnect the battery — negative first, then positive. Open the Victron Connect app on your phone and connect to the SmartShunt via Bluetooth. Set your battery capacity (in Ah), chemistry type (lithium, AGM, flooded, etc.), and charge parameters. The defaults are conservative and work for most setups, but getting the charged voltage threshold right matters for auto-sync accuracy. ## Common Mistakes - **Grounding the engine or chassis directly to the battery.** This bypasses the shunt. Run the engine ground to the system side bus bar instead. - **Forgetting the starter battery.** If your house and starter batteries share a negative bus, the starter motor current will flow through the shunt and confuse the readings. Either isolate the starter battery negative or use Victron's "battery starts" setting to filter out starter current. - **Too-small sense wire.** The included sense wire is adequate. Do not substitute a thinner wire. ## Verifying It Works After installation, turn on a known load — a light that draws 1A, for example. The SmartShunt should show approximately -1A current draw. Charge your batteries to full. The SmartShunt should auto-sync to 100% when it detects the tail current dropping below the threshold you configured. If the current reading seems wrong or the state of charge drifts rapidly, you have a bypass — a negative wire somewhere that is not going through the shunt. Trace every wire connected to the battery negative post and move it to the system side. [→ Victron SmartShunt 500A on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-smartshunt-500amp-50mv-bluetooth-smart-battery-shunt-shu050150050?ref=goodkit.io) ## Related Articles - [Best Marine Battery Monitor: Victron SmartShunt 500A](https://www.goodkit.io/best-marine-battery-monitor-victron-smartshunt-500a-review/) - [RV Battery Monitoring: What Actually Works](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/) - [RV Solar System Sizing](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-solar-system-sizing-how-to-calculate-what-you-need/) ## Free Tools Sizing wire and fuses correctly is non-negotiable for any electrical work on a boat. We built two free ABYC E-11 calculators for exactly this: - [Marine Wire Gauge Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-wire-gauge-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — sizes any DC wire run for ABYC voltage drop and ampacity requirements - [Marine Fuse Sizing Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-fuse-sizing-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — recommends fuses with proper continuous/motor multipliers and warns if your wire can't safely handle the fuse ### Shelly on a Boat: Cheap Smart Automation for 12V Marine Systems URL: https://www.goodkit.io/shelly-on-a-boat-cheap-smart-automation-for-12v-marine-systems/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T16:04:09.000Z ## Why Shelly on a Boat? Shelly devices are compact smart relays designed for home automation. They are also, accidentally, some of the best automation hardware for boats and RVs — because they run on DC, they are tiny, and they work with [Home Assistant](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/) over Wi-Fi without needing cloud services. We run multiple Shelly devices aboard our sailboat. They control lights, monitor temperatures, and automate systems that used to require manual switches or expensive marine-specific controllers. ## The Key Models for Marine Use ### Shelly 1 Mini Gen4 This is the workhorse. A single-channel smart relay small enough to fit behind a switch or inside a panel. It handles up to 8A on DC, which covers most lighting and fan circuits on a boat. We use these to: - Automate anchor lights — turn on at sunset, off at sunrise - Control cabin LED strips via Home Assistant dashboards - Create smart switches that also work as physical toggles (the relay passes through, so the manual switch still works if Wi-Fi drops) ### Shelly H&T Gen3 Temperature and humidity sensor with an e-ink display. Battery powered, reports over Wi-Fi. We have these in the engine room, the lazarette, and the main cabin. The engine room sensor triggers a Home Assistant alert if temperature exceeds a threshold — critical for catching overheating before it becomes an emergency. ### Shelly Plus Plug S For shore power monitoring. Tracks energy consumption of any AC device plugged into it. Useful for understanding how much power your battery charger, air conditioning, or water heater actually draws when on shore power. ## The 12V DC Question Most home automation devices expect 110/220V AC. Boats run on 12V or 24V DC. This is where Shelly stands out — the Shelly 1 Mini Gen4 natively supports DC input from 12-48V. No voltage converters, no adapters. Wire it directly to your DC panel. Important: check the specific model's DC voltage range before buying. Not every Shelly device supports DC, and some older generations only handle AC. The Gen4 Mini is the safe pick for DC systems. ## Connecting to Home Assistant Shelly devices connect to Home Assistant via the native Shelly integration — no MQTT configuration needed. Once they are on your boat's Wi-Fi network, Home Assistant auto-discovers them. From there, you can: - Build dashboards showing all your boat systems in one place - Create automations (lights on at sunset, fans on above 80°F, bilge pump alerts) - Log historical data — temperature trends, power consumption, switch activity - Set up notifications via phone, email, or Telegram when something goes wrong We run Home Assistant on a Raspberry Pi 4 with a Zigbee coordinator for additional sensors. The Pi draws about 3W — negligible on a boat power budget. ## Reliability at Sea The biggest concern with smart home devices on a boat is reliability. If your Wi-Fi router reboots, will your lights stop working? Shelly handles this well. The physical switch passthrough means lights and relays still work manually even with no Wi-Fi. When the network comes back, the Shelly reconnects automatically. We have had zero issues with Shelly devices failing due to power fluctuations, humidity, or motion — and our boat is in the tropics. ## What It Costs A Shelly 1 Mini Gen4 costs about $12\. A marine-rated smart switch from a chandlery costs $80-200 and does less. The entire automation system on our boat — six Shelly relays, three temperature sensors, and a Raspberry Pi running Home Assistant — cost under $200 total. ## The Bottom Line If you want smart automation on a boat or RV without paying marine-industry prices, Shelly plus Home Assistant is the answer. Cheap, reliable, runs on DC, and fully local — no cloud dependency. Start with one Shelly 1 Mini on a light circuit and see how you like it. ## Related Articles - [Home Assistant + Shelly on 12V DC](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/) - [Best Marine Battery Monitor: Victron SmartShunt 500A](https://www.goodkit.io/best-marine-battery-monitor-victron-smartshunt-500a-review/) - [AI Tools for Marine Navigation](https://www.goodkit.io/ai-tools-for-marine-navigation-and-boat-monitoring/) The Shellys are the muscle; Home Assistant is the brain. If you haven't set that up yet, our [Home Assistant setup guide for boats and RVs](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-boat-rv-setup-guide/) takes you from blank SD card to your first useful automation. ## Parts we use **Affiliate disclosure:** As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - [Shelly 1 Mini Gen4 on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Shelly+1+Mini+Gen4&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Shelly H&T Gen3 on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Shelly+H%26T+Gen3&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Shelly Plus Plug S on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Shelly+Plus+Plug+S&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Raspberry Pi 4 kits on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Raspberry+Pi+4+kit&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Cheap, DC-native, useful. value10 / 10 versatility9 / 10 ease8 / 10 ### Best Marine Battery Monitor: Victron SmartShunt 500A Review URL: https://www.goodkit.io/best-marine-battery-monitor-victron-smartshunt-500a-review/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:47:33.000Z ## Why You Need a Battery Monitor Voltage alone does not tell you how much battery you have left. A 12V lithium bank can read 13.1V at 80% and 13.0V at 30%. By the time voltage drops noticeably, you are already in trouble. A battery monitor tracks current in and out over time and gives you an accurate state of charge — like a fuel gauge instead of a check engine light. ## The Victron SmartShunt The Victron SmartShunt 500A is the monitor we run on our boat and the one we recommend for most RV and marine installations. It is a shunt-based coulomb counter — it sits on the negative battery cable and measures every amp flowing in and out of your bank. What makes it better than the competition: - **Bluetooth built in.** Open the Victron Connect app on your phone and see state of charge, voltage, current draw, and time remaining. No extra display needed. - **VE.Direct port.** If you run a Victron [Cerbo GX](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-cerbo-gx-setup-guide-from-install-to-remote-monitoring/) or GX Touch, the SmartShunt feeds directly into your system monitoring dashboard. This is where it really shines — full historical data, remote monitoring via VRM, and trend alerts. - **Midpoint voltage monitoring.** If you have a 24V bank made of two 12V batteries in series, the SmartShunt can detect imbalance between them before it becomes a problem. - **Accurate.** The 500A/50mV shunt handles up to 500A continuous. For most RV and boat systems, this is more than enough headroom. [→ Victron SmartShunt 500A on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-smartshunt-500amp-50mv-bluetooth-smart-battery-shunt-shu050150050?ref=goodkit.io) ## Installation Basics The SmartShunt installs on the negative side of your battery bank. All negative loads and charging sources must pass through the shunt — this is how it counts every amp. If anything bypasses the shunt (a ground wire bolted directly to the battery negative, for example), your readings will drift. The wiring is straightforward: 1. Mount the shunt close to your battery bank. 2. Connect the battery negative to one side of the shunt. 3. Connect all negative loads and charge sources to the other side. 4. Run the small sense wire from the shunt to battery positive (this measures voltage). 5. Open Victron Connect and configure your battery capacity, chemistry, and charge parameters. Total install time is about 30 minutes if your wiring is already accessible. The hardest part is usually rerouting any negative wires that bypass the shunt. ## What About Cheaper Options? You can buy a battery monitor for $25 on Amazon. We have tested several. The problem is not accuracy on day one — it is accuracy on day 30\. Cheap shunts drift, lose calibration, and do not sync properly after full charges. The SmartShunt auto-syncs when it detects a full charge and maintains accuracy over months. The Victron ecosystem is the other reason. If you ever add a solar charge controller, inverter, or Cerbo GX, the SmartShunt already speaks the language. You are not buying a standalone gadget — you are buying into a monitoring platform. ## SmartShunt vs BMV-712 Victron also makes the BMV-712, which is the SmartShunt with a dedicated display panel included. If you want a permanent mounted display showing state of charge, the BMV-712 is the way to go. If you are fine checking your phone or already have a Cerbo GX display, the SmartShunt saves you money and mounting space. ## Free Tools Sizing wire and fuses correctly is non-negotiable for any electrical work on a boat. We built two free ABYC E-11 calculators for exactly this: - [Marine Wire Gauge Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-wire-gauge-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — sizes any DC wire run for ABYC voltage drop and ampacity requirements - [Marine Fuse Sizing Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-fuse-sizing-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — recommends fuses with proper continuous/motor multipliers and warns if your wire can't safely handle the fuse ## The Bottom Line If you have a battery bank worth protecting — lithium especially — the SmartShunt is the right monitor. It is accurate, integrates with everything Victron makes, and the Bluetooth app alone is worth the price. Stop guessing your state of charge. [→ Victron SmartShunt 500A on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-smartshunt-500amp-50mv-bluetooth-smart-battery-shunt-shu050150050?ref=goodkit.io) ## Related Articles - [How to Wire a Victron SmartShunt](https://www.goodkit.io/how-to-wire-a-victron-smartshunt-step-by-step-install-guide/) - [RV Battery Monitoring: What Actually Works](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/) - [Victron vs Renogy: Which Solar Setup?](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-vs-renogy-which-solar-setup-is-right-for-your-rv/) The verdict Your batteries’ honest gauge. accuracy9 / 10 app8 / 10 value9 / 10 ### Caframo Sirocco II vs Sirocco II Elite — Which Fan Do You Actually Need? URL: https://www.goodkit.io/caframo-sirocco-ii-vs-sirocco-ii-elite-which-fan-do-you-actually-need/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:47:41.000Z ## The Best Marine Fan, Two Ways The Caframo Sirocco II is the best 12/24V fan you can buy for a boat or RV right now. Quiet, compact, gimbal-mounted, and built to handle the marine environment. That part is not up for debate. The question is whether you need the standard Sirocco II or the Elite. They look identical, mount the same way, and move the same amount of air. The difference is the motor — the Elite uses a brushless DC motor. That is the only meaningful hardware difference, and it is the entire reason the Elite exists. ## What We Run We have both versions aboard. The standard Sirocco II ran in our saloon — the high-traffic, always-on location — for three years of hard use before the motor finally gave out. Not a complaint. Three years of near-continuous duty in a salt air environment is a solid run for a brushed motor fan. When that fan died, we replaced it with an Elite. The saloon fan runs almost all day in warm weather, so the brushless motor made sense for that location. Our bedroom fans are standard Siroccos, and we keep standard units as spares. They only run at night, so the duty cycle does not justify the price bump. ## Brushed vs Brushless — What It Means for You A brushed motor uses physical carbon brushes that make contact with the commutator as it spins. Over thousands of hours, those brushes wear down. That is what kills the fan eventually. It is not a defect — it is just how brushed motors work. A brushless motor eliminates that contact. No brushes, no wear surface, dramatically longer lifespan. Brushless motors also run slightly quieter and draw marginally less current, but in a fan this size those differences are minor. The real benefit is longevity. ## When to Buy the Elite - **The fan will run most of the day, most days.** Saloon, pilothouse, main cabin — anywhere the fan stays on for extended periods. - **You are in a hot climate year-round.** If you are cruising the tropics or living aboard in the southern US, your fans are running constantly. The brushless motor will pay for itself. - **Access is difficult.** If the fan is mounted somewhere annoying to reach, you want to minimize how often you replace it. [→ Sirocco II Elite on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/seekr-by-caframo-sirocco-ii-elite-fan-white-7012cawbx?ref=goodkit.io) ## When the Standard Is Fine - **Overnight or part-time use.** Bedroom fans, guest cabin, any location where the fan runs 8 hours or less per day. - **Budget matters.** The standard is cheaper, and if you get three years out of it at moderate duty, that is a fair deal. - **You want spares on hand.** Buying two standard fans for the price of one Elite means you always have a backup ready. [→ Sirocco II on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/seekr-by-caframo-sirocco-ii-3-speed-7-gimbal-fan-white-12-24v-7010cawbx?ref=goodkit.io) ## Side by Side | | Sirocco II | Sirocco II Elite | | --------------------- | ------------------------- | -------------------- | | **Motor** | Brushed DC | Brushless DC | | **Voltage** | 12/24V | 12/24V | | **Speeds** | 3 | 3 | | **Mount** | Gimbal | Gimbal | | **Size** | 7" | 7" | | **Expected Lifespan** | \~3 years heavy use | Significantly longer | | **Noise** | Quiet | Slightly quieter | | **Best For** | Part-time / overnight use | Always-on locations | ## The Bottom Line Both fans are excellent. The Sirocco II is the best marine fan at its price point, and the Elite is the same fan built to last longer under heavy use. If your fan runs all day, buy the Elite. If it runs overnight or occasionally, save the money and go standard. Either way, stop buying cheap fans that rust and die in six months. The Sirocco is the right answer. ## Need a Portable Too? Hardwired fans are great for permanent locations but cannot solve the "I need air right here, right now" problem — the cockpit, the galley, a guest cabin. We pair our Siroccos with a [Koonie rechargeable clip-on fan](https://www.goodkit.io/the-best-portable-fan-for-boats-and-rvs-koonie-review/) for everywhere else. Battery lasts overnight on low, USB-C charges, and goes wherever you need it. For those spots, we reach for a [rechargeable clip-on fan](https://www.goodkit.io/the-best-portable-fan-for-boats-and-rvs-koonie-review/). The verdict Elite if you run it nightly. brushless lifeElite noiseElite priceStandard ### Best Mail Forwarding Services for Full-Time RVers and Cruisers (2026) URL: https://www.goodkit.io/best-mail-forwarding-services-for-full-time-rvers-and-cruisers-2026/ Last updated: 2026-07-21T21:44:26.000Z Disclosure: some links below are affiliate links, which means we may earn a commission if you sign up. Notably, our actual top pick — St. Brendan's Isle — is **not** one of them. They don't run an affiliate program. We recommend them anyway, because they're the service we've used for years. If you live on a boat or travel full-time in an RV, you still need a physical mailing address. Banks need one. The DMV needs one. Insurance companies need one. The IRS needs one. You can't put "slip 47, somewhere in the Bahamas" on a tax return. A mail forwarding service gives you a real street address, receives your mail, and lets you manage it remotely — scan it, forward it, or toss it. Some also help you establish domicile in a tax-friendly state. We've used St. Brendan's Isle for years while cruising. Here's how the top five services compare. ## Mail Forwarding or Virtual Mailbox? You'll see both terms used for the same basic idea. A **mail forwarding** service gives you a permanent street address, receives your mail, and ships it to you on request. A **virtual mailbox** is the same thing with the digital experience up front — every piece is scanned so you can read, forward, or shred it from an app. Most of the services below do both; the difference is which side they lead with. Full-timers who need a domicile address lean toward the traditional forwarders, while remote workers who just want a paperless inbox lean toward the app-first virtual mailboxes. ## Why Domicile Matters Before picking a mail service, you need to decide where you want to be "from." Your domicile state determines: - **Vehicle registration** — where you register your car, truck, RV, or boat trailer - **Driver's license** — tied to your domicile state - **Insurance rates** — vary dramatically by state - **State income tax** — Florida, Texas, and South Dakota have none - **Voting** — you vote in your domicile state - **Banking** — some banks and brokerages need a residential (not PO Box) address The three most popular domicile states for nomads: | | Florida | Texas | South Dakota | | --------------------- | ----------------------------- | ------------------- | ---------------------- | | State income tax | None | None | None | | Vehicle registration | Moderate | Low | Lowest | | Insurance costs | Higher | Moderate | Lower | | Residency requirement | Must declare intent | Must declare intent | One night in the state | | Best for | Boaters, international travel | RVers, central US | Cheapest registration | South Dakota is the easiest to establish — you literally stay one night, walk into the DMV, and you're a resident. Florida is popular with cruisers because it's a natural departure point for the Caribbean and Bahamas. Texas splits the difference. **Pick your domicile state first, then pick a mail service in that state.** ## The Five Services Compared ### 1\. St. Brendan's Isle — Our Pick **Location:** Green Cove Springs, Florida **Price:** $13.99-$29.99/month + $100 refundable deposit **Mail scanning:** Add-on: $7.99-$15.99/month (Mail Scan Pro) **Domicile:** Florida St. Brendan's Isle has been doing this since 1988\. They serve over 7,000 customers and have an A+ BBB rating. They were built specifically for cruisers and full-time travelers — not as a generic virtual mailbox service that happens to also serve nomads. **What we like:** - Rock solid reliability — we've used them for years without a single lost piece of mail - Florida domicile support is straightforward - Staff actually understands the cruising/RV lifestyle - Mail scanning works well — they scan the exterior of every piece, and you choose what to open and scan the contents - Forwarding is easy — tell them where you are, they ship it **What we don't love:** - The web interface is dated — it works, but it looks like 2010 - No mobile app - Scanning is an add-on, not included in the base price - Not the cheapest option **Best for:** Cruisers and boaters who want Florida domicile and a service that's been doing this longer than most. Reliable, no surprises, no gimmicks. **Pricing:** - Basic: $13.99/month (mail receiving and storage) - Standard: $19.99/month (adds forwarding discounts) - Premium: $29.99/month (priority handling) - Mail Scan Pro: $7.99-$15.99/month add-on - $100 refundable deposit [Visit St. Brendan's Isle](https://www.sbimailservice.com/?ref=goodkit.io) --- ### 2\. Escapees RV Club **Location:** Livingston, Texas (also FL and SD addresses) **Price:** $95-$135/year + $49.95/year club membership + $50 deposit **Mail scanning:** $10/month add-on **Domicile:** Texas, Florida, or South Dakota Escapees is the oldest and largest RV club in the US. Their mail service is a benefit of membership. If you're already an Escapees member, it's a natural choice. **What's good:** - Cheapest annual cost if you're already a member - Three state options (TX, FL, SD) so you can pick your domicile - Decades of experience with the RV community - Large community and support forums **What's not:** - Requires club membership ($49.95/year) on top of mail service fees - Mail processing is Monday-Friday only — no weekend processing - Scanning is an extra $10/month - Some users report DMVs and banks occasionally rejecting the address as "not residential" - The FL and SD addresses use a dual-address system that can be confusing **Best for:** RVers who are already Escapees members or want the cheapest annual option with Texas domicile. [Visit Escapees Mail Service](https://www.escapees.com/mail-service/?ref=goodkit.io) --- ### 3\. Americas Mailbox **Location:** Box Elder, South Dakota **Price:** $169.99-$248.99/year + $25 setup fee **Mail scanning:** Included on higher tiers (exterior scans) **Domicile:** South Dakota If you want South Dakota domicile — and a lot of RVers do because of the low registration costs — Americas Mailbox is the go-to. They even have an on-site campground so you can stay overnight and establish residency the next morning. **What's good:** - South Dakota domicile is the easiest to establish (one overnight stay) - On-site campground for establishing residency - They'll handle vehicle registration for you (for a fee) - Titanium Plus plan includes unlimited exterior scans and cloud storage - Competitive annual pricing **What's not:** - Vehicle registration service is their biggest draw AND their biggest complaint — multi-week delays and poor communication are common in reviews - Some BBB complaints about the registration service specifically - Limited to South Dakota domicile only - Web interface is basic **Best for:** RVers who want South Dakota domicile for the cheapest vehicle registration and no state income tax. [Visit Americas Mailbox](https://www.americasmailbox.com/?ref=goodkit.io) --- ### 4\. Traveling Mailbox **Location:** Sanford, North Carolina (hub), \~25-50 satellite addresses nationwide **Price:** $15-$99/month **Mail scanning:** Included in all plans **Domicile:** None — not a domicile service Traveling Mailbox has the best digital experience of any service on this list. Scanning is included in every plan, the mobile app works well, and the interface is modern. If you just need a virtual mailbox and don't need domicile services, this is a strong option. **What's good:** - Scanning included in base price — no add-on fees - Best mobile app and web interface - Multiple address options across the US - 7-day mail processing (not just weekdays) - Cloud integrations and digital organization tools **What's not:** - ALL mail routes through one facility in North Carolina regardless of which address you choose — adds 2-3 days of delay - No domicile or residency services - Not built for the RV/cruiser community specifically - Reviews are polarized — great on Google, rougher on Trustpilot - Higher-tier plans get expensive ($99/month for the top plan) **Best for:** Remote workers or digital nomads who want a clean digital mailbox experience and don't need domicile services. [Visit Traveling Mailbox](https://travelingmailbox.com/?ref=3812) --- ### 5\. Anytime Mailbox **Location:** 2,500+ third-party locations worldwide **Price:** Starting at $5.99/month (varies by location) **Mail scanning:** Varies by location **Domicile:** None — not a domicile service Anytime Mailbox is a marketplace — they connect you with independent mailbox operators (UPS Stores, pack-and-ship shops, etc.) across the country. The cheapest option on paper, but you get what you pay for. **What's good:** - Cheapest starting price - Massive number of locations — pick an address in almost any city - Good if you need a local-looking address in a specific area **What's not:** - Quality varies wildly by location — some operators are great, others lose mail - Pricing can change dramatically — multiple users report 4-6x price increases with little notice - No accountability when things go wrong — corporate blames the operator, operator blames corporate - Not HIPAA or SOC 2 compliant - No domicile services - If your location closes, you have to find a new one and update everything **Best for:** People who need a cheap virtual address in a specific city for business purposes. Not recommended for your primary life-admin mailbox. [Visit Anytime Mailbox](https://www.anytimemailbox.com/?ref=goodkit.io) ## Comparison Table | Feature | St. Brendan's Isle | Escapees | Americas Mailbox | Traveling Mailbox | Anytime Mailbox | | ----------------- | ------------------ | ---------- | ---------------- | ----------------- | --------------- | | Monthly cost | $14-30 | \~$8-11 | \~$14-21 | $15-99 | $6+ | | Scanning included | Add-on | Add-on | Higher tiers | Yes | Varies | | Domicile states | FL | TX, FL, SD | SD | None | None | | Mobile app | No | No | No | Yes | Yes | | Best for | Cruisers | RVers | SD domicile | Digital nomads | Cheap address | | Years in business | 37+ | 30+ | 15+ | 10+ | 10+ | | Our rating | ★★★★★ | ★★★★ | ★★★½ | ★★★★ | ★★★ | ## Our Recommendation We use **St. Brendan's Isle** and it's GoodKit Approved. It's not the cheapest. The website looks like it was built during the Obama administration. There's no app. But in years of use, they've never lost a piece of mail, the scanning works, the forwarding works, and the staff understands what it means to be unreachable for days at a time on a boat. If you need **South Dakota domicile**, go with **Americas Mailbox** — just don't rely on their vehicle registration service without a backup plan. If you need the **best digital experience** and don't need domicile, **Traveling Mailbox** is the most modern option. Skip Anytime Mailbox for anything mission-critical. ## How to Switch If you already have a mail service and want to switch: 1. Set up the new service first — get your new address 2. Update your address with the USPS (change of address form) 3. Update critical accounts: bank, insurance, DMV, IRS 4. Keep the old service running for 3-6 months to catch stragglers 5. Cancel the old service only after mail stops arriving there Don't rush it. Missing a piece of mail from your insurance company or the IRS is not something you want to deal with from a marina in the Dominican Republic. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### What's the difference between mail forwarding and a virtual mailbox? They overlap heavily. A traditional mail forwarding service gives you a physical street address, holds your mail, and ships it to wherever you are on request. A virtual mailbox does the same but leads with the digital side — they scan the outside of every piece, you view it in an app, and you choose what to open-and-scan, forward, or shred. Most modern services do both. If you want a paperless, manage-from-your-phone setup, look for virtual mailbox features like included scanning and a solid app (Traveling Mailbox and Anytime Mailbox lead there). If you mainly need a domicile address and reliable forwarding, a traditional service like St. Brendan's Isle or Escapees is the better fit. ### Can I use a mail forwarding address as my legal or residential address? Usually yes for domicile, banking, and licensing — that's the whole point of the RV and cruiser-focused services — but not for every purpose. St. Brendan's Isle (FL), Escapees (TX/FL/SD), and Americas Mailbox (SD) are set up specifically so their address works for vehicle registration, driver's licenses, and voter registration in that state. Some banks and the occasional DMV clerk still balk at an address they recognize as a mail service, which is exactly why the domicile-focused services are worth the money — they've spent decades getting their addresses accepted. A generic virtual mailbox at a random location is far more likely to be rejected for legal or residency use. ### Which state is best for RV or boat domicile? Florida, Texas, and South Dakota are the big three, all with no state income tax. South Dakota is the easiest to establish (one overnight stay) and has the cheapest vehicle registration, which makes it popular with RVers. Texas is central and RV-friendly. Florida is the common pick for boaters and anyone doing international travel. Choose the state first, then pick a mail service that offers an address there. ### Will banks, the DMV, and insurance accept the address? The established, domicile-focused services format their addresses as street addresses rather than obvious PO boxes, so they pass most checks. That said, a few banks and brokerages specifically require a residential address and may flag a known mail-service address — it's worth confirming with your bank before you move everything over. Favoring a service with a long track record in your domicile state is the safest route. ### How much does a mail forwarding or virtual mailbox service cost? Roughly $6 to $30 a month depending on the service and features. The cheapest starting prices come from Anytime Mailbox (from about $6/month, though quality varies by location) and Escapees (effectively $8-11/month, but it requires club membership). Full-service cruiser and RV-focused options like St. Brendan's Isle run about $14-30/month, with scanning often an add-on. Traveling Mailbox includes scanning and ranges from $15 to $99/month depending on volume. ### Can I register a vehicle or boat at the address? Yes — with a domicile-focused service in a state that allows it. Americas Mailbox (South Dakota) will even handle the registration paperwork for you, though that specific service is also their most common source of complaints (multi-week delays), so build in time. St. Brendan's Isle and Escapees support registration in their states too. A generic virtual mailbox that isn't built for domicile generally won't work for this. ## Related GoodKit Guides Getting set up for full-time RV or boat life? A few more guides worth a look: - [RV solar system sizing](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-solar-system-sizing-how-to-calculate-what-you-need/) — how to size a system that actually covers your loads - [RV battery monitoring that actually works](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/) — know your real state of charge - [RV winterization checklist](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-winterization-checklist-every-step-to-protect-your-rig/) — every step to protect the rig - [Best 12V fridge for RVs and boats](https://www.goodkit.io/best-12v-fridge-for-rvs-and-boats-compressor-fridges-compared/) — the compressor fridges we trust full-time ### Dometic CFX5 75DZ Review: 3 Years on a Boat URL: https://www.goodkit.io/dometic-cfx5-75dz-review-3-years-on-a-boat/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:46:19.000Z We've been running a [Dometic CFX5 75DZ](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHXMT21Z?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) on our boat for three years now. It supplements our built-in fridge and freezer, and it's been one of the most reliable pieces of gear aboard. Here's the honest review after thousands of hours of use. ## What It Is The CFX5 75DZ is a 75-liter dual-zone portable fridge/freezer. "Dual zone" means the cooler is split into two separate compartments, each with its own temperature control. You can run one side as a fridge and the other as a freezer, or both as fridge, or both as freezer — whatever you need. It runs on basically anything: 12V DC, 24V DC, 110V AC, or 240V AC. Plug it into your boat's 12V system, your RV's cigarette lighter, shore power, or a generator. It doesn't care. ## What We Love ### It Just Works Three years. Multiple countries. Rough seas, tropical heat, power outages. The Dometic has never failed. Plug it in, set the temperature, forget about it. That's exactly what you want from a fridge on a boat. ### Dual Zone Temperature Control Each side has its own temperature setting, controlled from a small screen on the top of the unit. Set one side to 37°F for drinks and produce, set the other to -4°F for freezer. The controls are simple — two buttons per side, display shows set temp and actual temp. No phone required. We keep the smaller side as a freezer and the larger side as a fridge. Ice cream goes under the freezer basket. The baskets are genuinely useful — especially on the freezer side where everything would otherwise become one frozen mass at the bottom. ### Power Flexibility 12V DC on the boat. 110V AC when we're at a marina or have the generator running. We've never had a situation where we couldn't power it. The built-in battery protection system prevents it from killing your house battery — you can set the cutoff voltage so it shuts off before draining your bank too low. ### Build Quality The VMSO3 compressor is solid. The insulation holds temperature well — during power outages, the freezer side stays frozen for hours. The hinges, the drain plug, the handles — everything feels like it was designed by people who actually use these things on boats and in overlanding rigs. ## What We Don't Love ### The Latch Our latch broke after about two years. After looking around online, this is common enough that [someone designed a 3D printed replacement](https://www.printables.com/model/1363604-dometic-cfx-lid-latch?ref=goodkit.io) with reinforced gussets where the OEM part fails. We ended up finding a reasonably priced OEM replacement and it was an easy swap — just a few screws. But a $900 cooler shouldn't have a latch that breaks. ### The Bluetooth / App It has Bluetooth. There's an app. In three years, I've never really needed to connect to it. The app tends to not work if you haven't used it in a while — needs an update, won't pair, the usual Bluetooth nonsense. The small screen on the unit itself tells you everything you need to know: set temp, actual temp, and buttons to adjust. Skip the app. ### Weight 75 liters of cooler plus a compressor is heavy. Empty, it's about 55 pounds. Full of food and drinks, you're looking at 90+ pounds. Not something you casually move around. Pick a spot for it and leave it there. ### Price The CFX5 75DZ runs around $900\. That's a lot for a cooler. But compared to a built-in marine fridge of equivalent capacity, it's actually reasonable. And you can take it off the boat and use it in the truck, at a tailgate, or at a rental house. Try doing that with a built-in unit. ## CFX5 vs CFX3 — What's the Difference? Dometic recently replaced the CFX3 line with the CFX5\. The key differences: | Feature | CFX3 75DZ | CFX5 75DZ | | ---------- | --------- | ------------------------ | | Compressor | VMSO3 | VMSO3 (same) | | Capacity | 75L | 75L | | Weight | \~55 lbs | \~55 lbs | | WiFi | No | Optional (some models) | | Ice Maker | No | Available on some models | | Build | ExoFrame | Updated ExoFrame | If you find a CFX3 75DZ on sale or used, it's essentially the same cooler. Don't pay a premium for the CFX5 unless you want the ice maker option. [Dometic CFX5 75DZ on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHXMT21Z?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ## Who Should Buy This **Buy it if:** - You need supplemental cold storage on a boat or RV - You want dual zone (independent fridge and freezer) - You need 12V/24V DC operation - You want something that works reliably in harsh conditions - You're okay with the price for a buy-once piece of gear **Skip it if:** - You just need a cooler for weekend trips — get a quality ice chest instead - Budget is tight — the [Dometic CFX5 36](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dometic+cfx5+36&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) (\~$600) is the same build quality in a smaller single-zone package - You need something you can easily carry — at 55 lbs empty, this isn't a grab-and-go cooler ## Alternatives | Cooler | Capacity | Zones | Price | Notes | | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ | -------- | ------ | -------- | ------------------------------- | | [Dometic CFX5 75DZ](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHXMT21Z?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | 75L | Dual | \~$900 | Our pick — proven reliable | | [Dometic CFX5 36](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dometic+cfx5+36&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | 36L | Single | \~$600 | Same quality, smaller | | [ARB 73 Quart](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ARB+73+quart+fridge+freezer&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | 73 Qt | Dual | \~$1,100 | Overlanding favorite, pricier | | [Engel MR040](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=engel+mr040+fridge+freezer&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | 40 Qt | Single | \~$700 | Legendary reliability, smaller | | [Iceco VL75ProD](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=iceco+vl75+dual+zone&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | 75L | Dual | \~$600 | Budget alternative, less proven | ## The Bottom Line Three years, zero failures (minus a latch), and it's kept our food cold through everything the Caribbean has thrown at us. The [Dometic CFX5 75DZ](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHXMT21Z?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) is expensive, heavy, and the Bluetooth is pointless. But it's also the most reliable portable fridge/freezer we've ever owned. The dual zone with independent controls is genuinely useful, the baskets keep things organized, and the power flexibility means it works anywhere. If you live on a boat or full-time in an RV and need cold storage that just works — this is the one to buy. ## Mounting on a Boat or RV If you're installing the CFX5 75DZ in a boat or RV, the Dometic OEM slide mount kit is essential. It lets you pull the fridge fully out for access and locks securely while underway. It is sized exactly for the 75DZ — no fitting required. Shopping around? See how the CFX5 stacks up against the field in our [12V fridge comparison](https://www.goodkit.io/best-12v-fridge-for-rvs-and-boats-compressor-fridges-compared/) — and for the other half of comfort aboard, our [Koonie fan review](https://www.goodkit.io/the-best-portable-fan-for-boats-and-rvs-koonie-review/). [→ Dometic Slide Mount Kit for CFX5 75DZ on Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/dometic-slide-mount-kit-f-cfx3-cfx5-75-dz-9610000653?ref=goodkit.io) --- ## More from GoodKit - [Best Mail Forwarding for RVers](https://www.goodkit.io/best-mail-forwarding-services-for-full-time-rvers-and-cruisers-2026/) - [Home Assistant + Shelly on 12V DC](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/) The verdict Three years, zero failures. reliability10 / 10 cooling9 / 10 portability5 / 10 value6 / 10 ### TimeZero Review: The Best Integrated Marine Navigation Software (With Some Frustrating Gaps) URL: https://www.goodkit.io/timezero-review-the-best-integrated-marine-navigation-software-with-some-frustrating-gaps/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T16:04:11.000Z I've been using TimeZero as my primary navigation software for a while now, across a PC, an iPad, and synced to Furuno chartplotters. It's the best integrated marine navigation platform I've found — and it has some frustrating gaps that keep it from being perfect. Here's the honest breakdown. ## What TimeZero Is TimeZero makes navigation software for recreational and professional mariners. The ecosystem includes: - **TZ Navigator** — the PC/laptop application (Windows only). Full chart plotting, route planning, weather, radar overlay. - **TZ iBoat** — the iPad/iPhone app. Charts, AIS, basic navigation. - **TZ Cloud** — syncs waypoints, routes, and tracks across all your devices. - **Furuno NavNet integration** — connects directly to Furuno MFDs (TZT2, TZT3, TZtouchXL) via Ethernet. The whole point is that everything stays in sync. Plan a route on your laptop, it shows up on your iPad and your chartplotter. Drop a waypoint on the chartplotter, it syncs back to the laptop. This is what sets TimeZero apart from everything else. ## What I Love ### Furuno Chartplotter Sync This is the killer feature. If you have Furuno NavNet hardware (and you should — Furuno makes the best commercial-grade electronics for recreational boats), TimeZero talks to it natively over Ethernet. Not NMEA 0183, not a janky WiFi bridge — a direct network connection. Routes, waypoints, tracks, radar overlay — all shared between your laptop and your chartplotter in real time. No other navigation software does this as seamlessly. ### TZ iBoat Integration The iPad app syncs with TZ Navigator via TZ Cloud. Plan a passage on your laptop at the nav station, walk up to the cockpit with your iPad, and everything is there. Mark a waypoint on the iPad, it shows up on the laptop and the chartplotter next time you sync. For cockpit use, the iPad is often more convenient than going below to the nav station. Having your full route plan on a tablet you can hold is genuinely useful. ### Weather Routing (Paid Module) The weather routing module on TZ Navigator is excellent. It downloads GRIB data, factors in your boat's polar diagram (or power boat performance profile), and calculates optimal departure times and routes based on forecasted conditions. It's not PredictWind-level ML routing, but it's integrated directly into your chart planning workflow. You don't have to switch apps, export routes, or manually reconcile different tools. Plan the route, check the weather, optimize the timing — all in one window. ### Weather Overlay (Paid Module) Live weather overlay on the chart is well-implemented. Wind, waves, pressure, precipitation — all rendered as color overlays or particle animations directly on your navigation chart. You can cache forecasts for offline use, which matters offshore. ### The Integration Factor This is really the whole point. Every other approach I've tried involves stitching together multiple apps: Navionics for charts, PredictWind for weather routing, a separate AIS app, a separate anchor alarm, separate radar display. TimeZero puts it all in one platform with one interface. The reduction in task-switching and data reconciliation is worth the price of admission alone. ## What I Don't Love ### Windows Only (PC Version) TZ Navigator only runs on Windows. If you're a Mac user — and a lot of boaters are — you're either running Boot Camp, a VM, or buying a dedicated Windows laptop for the nav station. It's 2026\. This shouldn't be a limitation. The iPad app helps bridge the gap, but it doesn't have weather routing or the full feature set of the PC version. So you still need that Windows machine for passage planning. ### Chart Selection This is my biggest ongoing frustration. Garmin acquired Navionics, and chart availability has gotten complicated. TimeZero supports C-MAP and Navionics (via Datacore), but the options feel limited compared to what's available on other platforms. In some regions the chart quality and coverage is excellent. In others, you're stuck with charts that feel outdated or lack detail. If you're cruising in well-charted waters (US, Europe, popular Caribbean), it's fine. If you're going off the beaten path, check chart availability for your area before committing. ### Weather Model Limitations The paid weather module uses GFS as the base model, with high-resolution regional models available as add-ons. But it doesn't include ECMWF — which is widely considered the best global weather model for marine forecasting. The Copernicus wave model (which is forced by ECMWF winds) is available, so you get some ECMWF-derived data for wave forecasts. But for wind and pressure forecasting, you're limited to GFS and regional models. If you're doing serious offshore passages, you'll probably still want PredictWind or a dedicated GRIB viewer with ECMWF access alongside TimeZero. ### Price TZ Navigator with charts runs around $650\. The weather routing module is additional. The weather overlay module is additional. Chart subscriptions are ongoing. The iPad app has its own in-app subscriptions for premium features. It adds up. For a full setup with all the modules, you're looking at $800-1000+ and then ongoing chart/weather subscriptions. It's not unreasonable for what you get, but it's not cheap. ## Who Should Use TimeZero **Buy it if:** - You have Furuno chartplotters and want seamless laptop/tablet integration - You want one platform instead of five separate apps - You do passage planning and want integrated weather routing - You value workflow integration over having the absolute best of each individual feature **Skip it if:** - You're a Mac-only household and don't want a Windows machine on the boat - You need ECMWF weather models for offshore routing - You're on a tight budget and free apps (Navionics, OpenCPN) cover your needs - You don't have Furuno hardware — the integration advantage disappears ## The Bottom Line TimeZero is the best integrated navigation platform I've used. The Furuno sync, the iPad integration, the weather routing, and the unified workflow genuinely make passage planning and navigation easier. Nothing else combines all of these into a single ecosystem this well. But the Windows-only limitation, the chart selection issues, and the lack of ECMWF weather models keep it from being the slam-dunk recommendation it should be. If those gaps don't affect you, TimeZero is excellent. If they do, you'll end up supplementing it with other tools anyway. For most cruisers with Furuno electronics, TimeZero is worth the investment. Just go in knowing the limitations. ## Related Articles - [AI Tools for Marine Navigation](https://www.goodkit.io/ai-tools-for-marine-navigation-and-boat-monitoring/) - [Dometic CFX5 75DZ Review](https://www.goodkit.io/dometic-cfx5-75dz-review-3-years-on-a-boat/) - [Shelly on a Boat](https://www.goodkit.io/shelly-on-a-boat-cheap-smart-automation-for-12v-marine-systems/) TimeZero reads its data off the boat's NMEA 2000 network. To get that same data onto a phone or laptop, see our [Yacht Devices YDNR-02 review](https://www.goodkit.io/yacht-devices-ydnr-02-review-3-years-of-nmea-2000-to-wi-fi/) — the NMEA 2000-to-Wi-Fi gateway we run. ## Buy or price TIMEZERO - [TIMEZERO Navigator and upgrades — official store](https://store.mytimezero.com/home/?ref=goodkit.io) - [Find an authorized TIMEZERO reseller](https://mytimezero.com/find-a-reseller?ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Brilliant — if you’re on Windows. features9 / 10 integration9 / 10 flexibility4 / 10 ### Best Instant-Read Thermometers: ThermoWorks Thermapen, Sizzle, and ThermoPop Compared URL: https://www.goodkit.io/thermoworks-thermapen-one-the-only-thermometer-you-need/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:47:27.000Z If you cook meat — on a grill, in an oven, over a campfire, in an RV kitchen — you need an instant-read thermometer. The question is which one. ThermoWorks makes the best instant-read thermometers on the market. They recently started selling on Amazon, so you can actually get them with Prime shipping now. Here's the full lineup and which one to buy. ## The Lineup ThermoWorks has three tiers of instant-read thermometers. All three are good. The question is how fast and how accurate you need. ### ThermoWorks Thermapen ONE — The Best Made (\~$105) The [Thermapen ONE](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG71Q1LZ?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) is the flagship. One-second readings, ±0.5°F accuracy, IP67 waterproof, auto-rotating backlit display, and a 5-year warranty. It's the thermometer every other thermometer gets compared to. - **1-second** readings - **±0.5°F** accuracy - IP67 waterproof - 2,000+ hours battery life (AAA) - Auto-on/off with probe If you cook professionally or you're the kind of person who wants the absolute best tool for the job, this is it. You'll never think about thermometers again. [Thermapen ONE on Amazon (\~$105)](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG71Q1LZ?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ### ThermoWorks Sizzle — The Sweet Spot (\~$49) The [Sizzle](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FM4MKB2S?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) is the newest addition and honestly, it might be the best value in the lineup. Two-second readings, ±0.9°F accuracy, same folding probe design, waterproof, magnetic back, auto-rotating backlit display. - **2-second** readings - **±0.9°F** accuracy - IP67 waterproof - Magnetic back (sticks to your grill) - Folding probe with auto-on/off I've been using one and it's genuinely hard to justify the Thermapen ONE at double the price unless you need that last half-degree of accuracy and the extra second of speed. For 95% of home cooks, the Sizzle is the one to buy. **This is our pick for most people.** [ThermoWorks Sizzle on Amazon (\~$49)](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FM4MKB2S?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ### ThermoWorks ThermoPop 2 — The Budget Pick (\~$35) The [ThermoPop 2](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG6M1TMY?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) is ThermoWorks' entry-level option. It's a lollipop-style (non-folding) thermometer with 2-3 second reads and solid accuracy. If you want ThermoWorks quality but don't want to spend $50+, this is the floor. - **2-3 second** readings - **±2°F** accuracy - Splash-proof (not fully waterproof) - Rotating display Good thermometer. The Sizzle is worth the extra $15 for the folding probe and waterproofing alone, but the ThermoPop 2 won't let you down. [ThermoPop 2 on Amazon (\~$35)](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG6M1TMY?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ## What About the Kizen? The [Kizen](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073KYTWGB?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) (\~$15) gets recommended everywhere because it's cheap and has 50,000+ Amazon reviews. It works fine for casual cooking. But it's 3-5 seconds to read, accuracy is ±1-2°F on a good day, and the build quality is plastic-toy-grade compared to any ThermoWorks product. If $15 is your budget, the Kizen is okay. If you can stretch to $49 for the Sizzle, do it. The difference is night and day. ## Comparison Table | Thermometer | Price | Speed | Accuracy | Waterproof | Probe Style | | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | ------ | ------- | -------- | ------------ | ----------- | | [Thermapen ONE](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG71Q1LZ?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | \~$105 | 1 sec | ±0.5°F | IP67 | Folding | | [Sizzle](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FM4MKB2S?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | \~$49 | 2 sec | ±0.9°F | IP67 | Folding | | [ThermoPop 2](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG6M1TMY?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | \~$35 | 2-3 sec | ±2°F | Splash-proof | Lollipop | | [Kizen](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073KYTWGB?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | \~$15 | 3-5 sec | ±1-2°F | IP67 | Folding | ## Why It Matters for RV and Boat Cooking If you cook in an RV or on a boat, your conditions are different from a home kitchen: - **Unpredictable heat sources** — camp stoves, small ovens, charcoal grills with no temperature control. A fast, accurate thermometer compensates for inconsistent heat. - **No room for waste** — overcook a steak on a boat and you can't just grab another one from the fridge. Getting it right the first time matters when provisions are limited. - **Outdoor conditions** — wind, sun glare, wet hands. The Sizzle and Thermapen's waterproof body and backlit displays handle all of it. - **Limited prep space** — the folding probe design means one-handed operation. Open, read, close, done. ## The Bottom Line **Buy the** [**Sizzle**](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FM4MKB2S?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) **($49).** It's 90% of the Thermapen ONE at half the price. Two-second reads, waterproof, magnetic back, great accuracy. Best value instant-read thermometer you can buy right now. **Buy the** [**Thermapen ONE**](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG71Q1LZ?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) **($105)** if you want the absolute best and don't care about the price premium. One-second reads and ±0.5°F accuracy are unmatched. **Buy the** [**ThermoPop 2**](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG6M1TMY?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) **($35)** if budget is tight but you still want ThermoWorks quality. **Skip the** [**Kizen**](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073KYTWGB?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) unless $15 is genuinely all you can spend. The verdict Fastest, most accurate read. speed10 / 10 accuracy10 / 10 value6 / 10 ### Victron vs Renogy: Which Solar Setup Is Right for Your RV? URL: https://www.goodkit.io/victron-vs-renogy-which-solar-setup-is-right-for-your-rv/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:47:44.000Z ## Free Tools Sizing wire and fuses correctly is non-negotiable for any electrical work on a boat. We built two free ABYC E-11 calculators for exactly this: - [Marine Wire Gauge Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-wire-gauge-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — sizes any DC wire run for ABYC voltage drop and ampacity requirements - [Marine Fuse Sizing Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-fuse-sizing-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — recommends fuses with proper continuous/motor multipliers and warns if your wire can't safely handle the fuse --- ## title: "Victron vs Renogy: Which Solar Setup Is Right for Your RV?" date: 2026-03-28 tags: \["solar", "RV", "gear", "comparison"\] If you're wiring solar into an RV or boat, you've already landed on the two brands that dominate the space: Victron Energy and Renogy. They show up in every forum thread, every YouTube build, and every Amazon search for MPPT controllers. So which one do you actually buy? ## The Short Answer Victron is the better product. Renogy is the cheaper product. Both work. The right choice depends on how you use your rig, how much you want to monitor, and whether you plan to expand later. Here's the full breakdown. ## Build Quality Victron charge controllers use aluminum housings with passive cooling — no fans, no moving parts, nothing to wear out or clog with dust. They run at roughly 98% peak efficiency and feel like something pulled from industrial equipment. Because there's no fan, they're silent, and there's one less component that can fail in a hot engine bay or a damp lazarette. Renogy controllers use plastic housings with active fan cooling. Efficiency lands around 96-97%, which is still good. The build quality is adequate — these aren't flimsy products — but they don't feel premium. The fan is a potential failure point, and plastic doesn't shed heat or resist UV degradation the way aluminum does. In a climate-controlled house, this distinction barely matters. In an RV roof compartment hitting 140 degrees in July, or a sailboat locker soaked with salt air, Victron's construction earns its price difference over time. ## MPPT Performance Both brands use Maximum Power Point Tracking, but the implementation differs significantly. Victron's MPPT algorithm tracks fast. When a cloud passes, when a tree shadow slides across one panel, when you're driving through dappled light on a tree-lined road — the Victron controller re-finds the optimal power point quickly. This matters because partial shade is the norm for most RV and boat installations, not the exception. Renogy's tracking is slower. In steady, full sun, it performs well. But in dynamic conditions — passing clouds, partial shade, panels at imperfect angles — it lags behind. It still harvests power, just less of it. The real-world difference is roughly 5-15% more energy harvested from a Victron controller in imperfect conditions. On a cloudy week when you're relying on every watt, that gap matters. ## Software and Monitoring This is where the gap becomes a canyon. **Victron** ships every SmartSolar controller with built-in Bluetooth. Open VictronConnect on your phone and you get real-time data: panel voltage, charge current, battery state, yield history, error codes. No extra hardware needed. Add a [Cerbo GX](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-cerbo-gx-mk2-bpp900451100?ref=goodkit.io) and you unlock the full VRM (Victron Remote Management) portal — a cloud dashboard that lets you monitor your entire electrical system from anywhere with an internet connection. You can check your battery state of charge from a restaurant. You can see that your fridge tripped a breaker while you're at work. You can view 30-day yield graphs and spot trends. **Renogy** offers a basic app and the DC Home module for local monitoring. It shows you the essentials — voltage, current, basic history. But there's no real cloud platform, no remote access, and the interface feels like an afterthought compared to VictronConnect. If monitoring matters to you — and for full-timers or anyone with a lithium bank, it should — Victron's software ecosystem is the single biggest reason to choose it. ## Integration and Ecosystem Victron products talk to each other. A SmartSolar controller connects to a [SmartShunt battery monitor](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-smartshunt-500amp-50mv-bluetooth-smart-battery-shunt-shu050150050?ref=goodkit.io) over VE.Direct. Add a Victron inverter/charger and a [Cerbo GX](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-cerbo-gx-setup-guide-from-install-to-remote-monitoring/), and every component reports to one unified dashboard. Battery voltage, solar yield, AC loads, shore power status — all in one place, all logged, all accessible remotely. Renogy products are mostly standalone. The charge controller does its job. The battery monitor does its job. But they don't share data in a meaningful way. There's no single pane of glass for your whole system. If you want one dashboard that shows everything — and you will, once you've lived with solar for a few months — Victron is the only real option in this price range. ## Panels Here's where Renogy fights back: their panels are genuinely good and significantly cheaper than Victron's. A [Renogy 200W panel kit](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VYJ8JXH?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) runs around $200\. A comparable Victron panel setup costs $350 or more. The efficiency difference between panels at this level is minimal. Both use monocrystalline cells. Both have similar temperature coefficients. Both will bolt to your roof and make electricity for 20+ years. Panel quality matters less than controller quality. The controller is doing the hard work of converting variable panel voltage into the correct charge profile for your battery. A great controller paired with budget panels outperforms a budget controller paired with premium panels. This opens up the best strategy for most people: **mix and match**. ## Pricing Comparison Here's what a typical system costs from each brand: | Component | Renogy | Victron | | ------------------- | ---------- | ----------- | | 200W panel kit | \~$200 | \~$350 | | 30A MPPT controller | \~$100 | \~$180 | | Battery monitor | \~$50 | \~$100 | | Full 400W system | \~$500-700 | \~$800-1200 | Victron costs roughly 50-70% more across the board. For a basic weekend-warrior setup, that's money you might not need to spend. For a full-time rig, it's money that pays for itself in reliability, monitoring, and expandability. **Specific products worth looking at:** - [Renogy 100W Monocrystalline Panel](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=renogy+100w+monocrystalline+solar+panel&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) — solid budget panel, easy to find - [Renogy Rover 30A MPPT Controller](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=renogy+rover+30a+mppt&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) — best value if you're staying in the Renogy ecosystem - [Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/30](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-smartsolar-mppt-charge-controller-100v-30amp-ul-approved-scc110030210?ref=goodkit.io) — the sweet spot for systems up to 400W - [Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150/60](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-smartsolar-mppt-150-60-tr-solar-charge-controller-ul-approved-scc115060211?ref=goodkit.io) — for larger systems, higher voltage strings, or future expansion - [Victron SmartShunt](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-smartshunt-500amp-50mv-bluetooth-smart-battery-shunt-shu050150050?ref=goodkit.io) — the best battery monitor under $150, pairs perfectly with VictronConnect ## Warranty Victron offers a 5-year warranty across their product line. That's notable confidence in hardware that lives in harsh environments. Renogy's standard warranty is 1-2 years on most products, with some newer items stretching to 5 years. Read the fine print — coverage varies by product and sometimes by where you bought it. For equipment mounted on a roof that bakes in summer and freezes in winter, warranty length matters. Victron's 5-year coverage isn't just marketing; it reflects how long they expect their hardware to last. ## Who Should Buy Renogy Renogy makes sense when: - **Budget is the primary concern.** A full Renogy system costs 40-50% less than the Victron equivalent. That's real money. - **Your setup is simple.** Panels, controller, battery, done. No need for networked monitoring or remote access. - **You're a weekend or seasonal user.** If the RV sits in storage most of the year, you don't need Victron-tier hardware. - **It's your first solar setup.** If you're not sure you'll stick with RV life or expand the system, Renogy lets you get started without a major investment. ## Who Should Buy Victron Victron is worth the premium when: - **You live in your rig full-time.** Reliability and monitoring aren't luxuries — they're necessities. - **You want remote monitoring.** Checking your system from your phone while you're away from the rig is genuinely useful. - **You're running a lithium battery bank.** Lithium batteries need accurate state-of-charge monitoring and precise charge profiles. Victron delivers both. - **You plan to expand.** Starting with a 200W system but thinking about 600W next year? Victron's ecosystem scales without replacing components. - **You're in a marine environment.** Salt air, humidity, and heat punish cheap hardware. Victron's aluminum construction and passive cooling handle it. - **You want one ecosystem.** Solar, batteries, inverter, shore power — all visible in one app, one dashboard, one system. ## The Best Combo: Our Pick For most serious RV and boat solar setups, the best value isn't all-Victron or all-Renogy. It's this: [**Renogy panels**](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VYJ8JXH?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) **\+** [**Victron SmartSolar MPPT controller**](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-smartsolar-mppt-charge-controller-100v-30amp-ul-approved-scc110030210?ref=goodkit.io) **\+** [**Victron SmartShunt**](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-smartshunt-500amp-50mv-bluetooth-smart-battery-shunt-shu050150050?ref=goodkit.io) You get Renogy's affordable, reliable panels doing the simple job of converting sunlight to DC power. Then the Victron controller handles the complex work — fast MPPT tracking, precise battery charging, Bluetooth monitoring. The [SmartShunt](https://www.goodkit.io/best-marine-battery-monitor-victron-smartshunt-500a-review/) gives you accurate battery state-of-charge data. And the whole thing talks through VictronConnect on your phone. This combo saves you $100-200 over a full Victron system while keeping the components that matter most at the premium level. It's the setup we'd recommend to anyone who's past the "just experimenting" phase and wants solar they can depend on. ## Bottom Line Renogy gets you running for less money. Victron keeps you running with more confidence. If you can afford Victron's controllers and monitoring — even if you pair them with Renogy panels — that's the move. If budget is tight, Renogy will still keep your batteries charged and your fridge cold. Either way, you're ahead of the person still running a generator. --- ## More from GoodKit - [RV Solar Sizing Guide](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-solar-system-sizing-how-to-calculate-what-you-need/) - [RV Battery Monitoring](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/) The verdict Victron to keep, Renogy to save. monitoringVictron priceRenogy reliabilityVictron ### Home Assistant + Shelly on 12V DC: Smart Automation for RVs and Boats URL: https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/ Last updated: 2026-07-16T21:02:00.000Z Most smart home gear runs on AC power. That's fine for a house, but useless on a boat or RV where everything runs on 12V DC. [Shelly](https://www.goodkit.io/shelly-on-a-boat-cheap-smart-automation-for-12v-marine-systems/) makes a handful of devices that work natively on 12V DC — no inverter needed, no AC adapter, just wire them directly to your DC system. Pair them with Home Assistant on a Raspberry Pi and you've got real automation: lights, pumps, fans, water heaters, all controllable from your phone or automated on schedules and sensor triggers. Here's what works, what doesn't, and how to set it up. ## Which Shelly Devices Work on 12V DC Not all Shelly devices support DC power. Here are the ones that do: | Device | DC Voltage | Max Load | Channels | Best For | Price | | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | ----------------- | ----------- | --------------- | ----------------------------------- | ----- | | [Shelly 1 Mini Gen3](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CV3ZQ5B1?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | 12V DC, 24-48V DC | 8A | 1 relay | Lights, fans, small loads | \~$12 | | [Shelly Plus 1](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CN19JZKB?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | 12V DC, 24-48V DC | 16A | 1 relay | Pumps, heaters, single lights | \~$16 | | [Shelly 1 Gen3](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D8YPW46Y?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | 12V DC, 24-48V DC | 16A | 1 relay | Same as Plus 1, newer hardware | \~$14 | | [Shelly UNI](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QY35KNR?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | 12-36V DC | Dry contact | 2 outputs + ADC | Sensor reading, low-power switching | \~$15 | | [Shelly Plus RGBW PM](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DDTZXZM5?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | 12V DC, 24V DC | 144W total | 4 PWM channels | LED strip dimming, RGB lighting | \~$22 | **Important:** The Shelly Plus 2PM, Shelly Dimmer, and most other Shelly devices are **AC only**. Don't try to run them on DC — you'll damage them. ## The Shelly 1 Mini Gen3: The Workhorse For most RV and boat automation, the [Shelly 1 Mini Gen3](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CV3ZQ5B1?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) is the go-to device. It's tiny — fits behind a switch panel or inside a junction box — and it handles up to 8A at 12V, which covers: - Interior LED lights - Ventilation fans - Water pump - Anchor light - Courtesy lights - USB charging outlets At about **$12 per device**, you can automate your entire RV or boat for less than the cost of a single marine-grade smart switch. Wire it in-line between your 12V supply and the device you want to control. The existing physical switch still works — the Shelly just adds smart control on top. ### Wiring (12V DC) ``` 12V Positive ──→ Fuse ──→ Shelly "L" terminal Shelly "O" terminal ──→ Load (light, pump, etc.) Load negative ──→ 12V Negative/Ground Shelly "N" terminal ──→ 12V Negative/Ground ``` Optional: connect your existing wall switch to the "SW" terminal for manual control alongside smart control. For loads over 8A (like a large water heater), step up to the [Shelly Plus 1](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CN19JZKB?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) which handles 16A. ## The Shelly Plus RGBW PM: LED Lighting Done Right If you want to control LED strips on your boat or RV — dimming, color temperature, or full RGB — the [Shelly Plus RGBW PM](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DDTZXZM5?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) is the one to get. It's the updated version of the older RGBW2 with power metering added. Four PWM channels at 12V or 24V, 144W combined output. **Use cases:** - Dim cabin lights to 10% at night automatically - Set warm white during evening, cool white during day - Under-cabinet accent lighting - Cockpit/exterior lighting with color options Each channel controls the negative side of an LED strip. The positive side connects directly to 12V power. **Pro tip:** Pair it with a [quality 12V LED strip](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=12v+led+strip+warm+white+marine&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) and you've got better lighting than most factory RV setups for under $40 total. ## The Shelly UNI: Sensor Bridge The [Shelly UNI](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QY35KNR?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) is different from the relay devices — it's designed for sensor input and low-power switching. It has: - 2 dry contact outputs (low current only — for triggering other relays, not driving loads directly) - 1 ADC input (analog-to-digital converter — reads 0-30V) - Temperature sensor input (DS18B20 compatible) **RV/boat use cases:** - Read tank levels from existing resistive senders via the ADC input - Monitor voltage on your house battery bank - Read temperature from [DS18B20 probes](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=DS18B20+waterproof+temperature+sensor&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) (engine room, fridge, exterior) — about $3 each - Trigger alerts when values go out of range ## Setting Up Home Assistant ### Step 1: Install Home Assistant on a Pi You'll need a [Raspberry Pi 4](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=raspberry+pi+4+kit&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) (\~$45-75) with a microSD card. If you don't already have Home Assistant running: ```bash # Download the HA image for Raspberry Pi # Flash to SD card using Balena Etcher or Raspberry Pi Imager # Boot the Pi, access at homeassistant.local:8123 ``` Or run it in a Docker container if you already have a Pi doing other things: ```bash docker run -d --name homeassistant \ --privileged --restart=unless-stopped \ -v /opt/homeassistant:/config \ -v /run/dbus:/run/dbus:ro \ --network=host \ ghcr.io/home-assistant/home-assistant:stable ``` ### Step 2: Connect Shelly Devices to WiFi Each Shelly device creates its own WiFi hotspot on first power-up: 1. Connect your phone to the Shelly's WiFi (named like "Shelly1MiniG3-XXXX") 2. Open 192.168.33.1 in a browser 3. Go to Settings → WiFi and enter your boat/RV WiFi credentials 4. The Shelly connects to your network and gets an IP address ### Step 3: Auto-Discovery in Home Assistant Home Assistant's Shelly integration auto-discovers Shelly devices on your network. You should see a notification: **Settings → Devices & Services → Shelly → Configure** Accept the discovery and your Shelly appears as a switch entity. That's it — no MQTT, no YAML, no configuration files. ### Step 4: Build Automations Now the fun part. Some practical automations for RV/boat: **Anchor light at sunset:** ```yaml automation: - alias: "Anchor light on at sunset" trigger: - platform: sun event: sunset action: - service: switch.turn_on entity_id: switch.shelly_anchor_light ``` **Bilge pump alert:** ```yaml automation: - alias: "Bilge pump running too long" trigger: - platform: state entity_id: switch.shelly_bilge_pump to: "on" for: "00:05:00" action: - service: notify.mobile_app data: message: "Bilge pump has been running for 5 minutes — check for water intrusion" ``` **Dim lights at night:** ```yaml automation: - alias: "Dim cabin lights after 10pm" trigger: - platform: time at: "22:00:00" action: - service: light.turn_on entity_id: light.shelly_cabin_leds data: brightness_pct: 15 color_temp: 400 ``` **Battery voltage monitoring (Shelly UNI):** ```yaml automation: - alias: "Low battery alert" trigger: - platform: numeric_state entity_id: sensor.shelly_uni_adc below: 12.2 for: "00:10:00" action: - service: notify.mobile_app data: message: "House battery voltage below 12.2V — start charging" ``` ## WiFi Considerations Shelly devices need WiFi. On a boat or RV, that means: - **Your own router/access point** — A small [GL.iNet travel router](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TSK26W?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) (\~$25) running your own network. Shelly connects to this, Home Assistant connects to this. No internet required for local control. - **Range** — Shelly devices have decent WiFi radios, but fiberglass and metal hulls can attenuate signal. Place your router centrally. - **No internet needed** — Everything runs locally. Shelly works without cloud, Home Assistant works without cloud. You can automate your boat at anchor with zero cell signal. ## What About Zigbee or Z-Wave? Shelly uses WiFi, which means no extra hub needed. Zigbee devices (like [Xiaomi temperature sensors](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=xiaomi+lywsd03mmc+temperature+humidity+sensor&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io)) need a Zigbee coordinator (USB stick). Both work with Home Assistant, but for a simple RV/boat setup, WiFi-based Shelly devices are easier to deploy. If you're already running Zigbee for temperature sensors, you can mix both protocols in Home Assistant — Zigbee sensors for monitoring, Shelly relays for control. ## Shopping List Here's everything you need for a complete RV/boat automation setup: | Item | Link | Price | | ----------------------------- | ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | -------------- | | Raspberry Pi 4 Kit | [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=raspberry+pi+4+kit&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | \~$45-75 | | Shelly 1 Mini Gen3 (x3) | [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CV3ZQ5B1?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | \~$36 | | Shelly Plus RGBW PM | [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DDTZXZM5?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | \~$22 | | Shelly UNI | [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QY35KNR?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | \~$15 | | GL.iNet Travel Router | [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TSK26W?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | \~$25 | | DS18B20 Temp Sensors (5-pack) | [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=DS18B20+waterproof+temperature+sensor+5+pack&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) | \~$10 | | **Total** | | **\~$150-180** | Compare that to a marine-specific automation system at $500-2,000+. The Shelly approach gives you more flexibility for a fraction of the cost. ## The Bottom Line Shelly devices are the easiest way to add smart control to a 12V DC system. They're cheap, they work directly on DC power, they integrate with Home Assistant out of the box, and they don't need internet. For RV and boat owners who want automation without the complexity (or cost) of marine-grade systems, this is the way to do it. Start with one [Shelly 1 Mini Gen3](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CV3ZQ5B1?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) on a light or fan. Once you see how easy it is, you'll want to automate everything. Starting from scratch? Our [Home Assistant on a boat or RV setup guide](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-boat-rv-setup-guide/) covers the full picture — install, the integrations worth adding first, and the AI shortcut for writing automations. ### AI Tools for Marine Navigation and Boat Monitoring URL: https://www.goodkit.io/ai-tools-for-marine-navigation-and-boat-monitoring/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T16:04:15.000Z # AI Tools for Marine Navigation and Boat Monitoring ## AI on the Water: What's Real The marine world has been slower to adopt AI than automotive or aviation, but that is changing. For cruisers and liveaboards, the most useful AI applications are not the flashy autonomous navigation demos -- they are the quiet systems that help you make better decisions about weather, maintenance, and energy management. ## Weather Routing and Passage Planning This is where AI has the most mature and immediately useful marine applications. **PredictWind:** Uses machine learning on multiple weather models (GFS, ECMWF, SPIRE, etc.) to generate optimized passage routes. It does not just show you the weather -- it calculates the fastest or most comfortable route based on your boat's polar diagram, sea state, and current forecasts. Subscription-based ($25-50/month for offshore). **Savvy Navvy:** Think Google Maps for boats. AI-powered route planning that accounts for tides, currents, depth, and weather. The free tier is useful for coastal cruising; the premium tier adds offshore routing. **What is actually valuable:** These tools do not replace seamanship, but they process more data than any human can. When you are planning a 3-day passage and need to choose between leaving Tuesday or Wednesday, AI routing can show you the difference in comfort, fuel consumption, and arrival time with surprising accuracy. ## Engine and Systems Monitoring Marine diesel engines are expensive to repair and give subtle warnings before they fail. AI-powered monitoring catches those warnings. **What to monitor:** - **Oil pressure trends** \-- gradual drops indicate bearing wear or oil degradation - **Coolant temperature patterns** \-- rising baseline temps flag heat exchanger fouling or impeller wear - **Exhaust gas temperature (EGT)** \-- changes in EGT indicate injector problems or turbo issues - **RPM vs speed** \-- a degrading ratio flags prop fouling or shaft issues - **Fuel consumption rate** \-- trending upward? Injectors need servicing NMEA 2000 networks already carry most of this data. The missing piece is software that analyzes trends over time. Victron's VRM does this for electrical systems. For engine data, Maretron's N2KView has some trending capability, but true AI-powered predictive maintenance for marine diesels is still emerging. The DIY approach: log NMEA 2000 data to InfluxDB via Signal K on a Raspberry Pi, then set up Grafana alerts on trend deviations. It is not fancy AI, but it catches the same problems. ## Battery and Energy Management Boats with solar, wind, and lithium battery banks face the same energy management challenges as RVs -- but with more variables (wind generation, engine alternator, hydro generator while sailing). **Smart charging:** Victron's adaptive charging algorithms already adjust charge profiles based on battery condition and temperature. The next step is AI that optimizes across all energy sources -- prioritizing solar during the day, scheduling engine charging for optimal fuel efficiency, and predicting energy needs based on your planned route. **Anchor watch:** Anchor alarm apps have gotten smarter, though most still use GPS radius monitoring rather than true ML. The best ones add time-delay logic so a momentary GPS glitch doesn't wake you up at 3am: - **DragQueen** (iOS, free) — built by the ActiveCaptain team. Lets you set both a radius and a time delay before the alarm fires. Solves the false alarm problem that plagues simpler apps. - **Anchor Alarm** (Android/iOS, free) — clean, simple, reliable GPS radius alarm. Can send SMS alerts to a preset number when it detects drag. - **Safety Anchor Alarm** (iOS, free) — lock screen widget, night mode, anchor points library. Good all-around choice for iOS. None of these are truly "AI-powered" despite what some marketing claims. They're GPS-based radius monitors with smart filtering. But that's honestly all you need — the key is using one consistently. ## Computer Vision at Sea **AIS + camera fusion:** Systems like Orca AI (commercial) combine AIS data with camera feeds and radar to create a comprehensive traffic picture. For recreational boats, this is overkill today, but the tech is filtering down. **What is practical now:** - Thermal cameras (FLIR) for night watch that can detect objects not on radar - Underwater cameras with fish/bottom detection for anchoring - Dinghy and deck cameras with motion detection for security at anchor **What is coming:** Affordable collision avoidance systems that combine camera, radar, and AIS into a single intelligent alert. Sea Machines and Orca AI are building this for commercial vessels; recreational versions are probably 3-5 years out. ## Communication and Connectivity Starlink changed everything for offshore connectivity, and AI applications need connectivity to be most useful. With Starlink Maritime (or the cheaper residential hardware that many cruisers use), AI-powered weather routing and remote monitoring become viable even mid-ocean. **AI-assisted radio:** Software-defined radio (SDR) with AI decoding can pull more information out of HF radio signals -- better weatherfax reception, automated NAVTEX processing, and AIS reception at extended ranges. ## What You Can Set Up on Your Boat Today 1. **Weather routing:** PredictWind or Savvy Navvy subscription. Immediate value for passage planning. 2. **Systems monitoring:** Raspberry Pi + Signal K + NMEA 2000 gateway. Log engine and electrical data, set up trend alerts. 3. **Smart energy management:** Victron system with VRM. Free cloud portal with basic analytics. 4. **Enhanced anchor watch:** DragQueen (iOS) or Anchor Alarm (Android) — free, reliable, solves the false alarm problem. 5. **Thermal night watch:** FLIR Scout or similar handheld thermal camera (\~$300-500 for entry level). ## The Bottom Line AI on boats is most useful today for two things: making better weather and routing decisions, and catching maintenance problems before they strand you. Both of these have immediate, practical applications with existing hardware. The autonomous navigation stuff is exciting but not relevant for most cruisers yet. Focus on monitoring and decision support -- that is where AI saves you money and keeps you safe today. Start with data collection (sensors + logging), add intelligence later. You cannot predict what you are not measuring. ## Related Articles - [TimeZero Review](https://www.goodkit.io/timezero-review-the-best-integrated-marine-navigation-software-with-some-frustrating-gaps/) - [How AI is Changing RV Maintenance](https://www.goodkit.io/how-ai-is-changing-rv-maintenance-and-monitoring/) - [Shelly on a Boat](https://www.goodkit.io/shelly-on-a-boat-cheap-smart-automation-for-12v-marine-systems/) ## Products and services mentioned **Affiliate disclosure:** As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. GoodKit and Dupree Products share common ownership. - [PredictWind weather routing](https://www.predictwind.com/?ref=goodkit.io) - [Savvy Navvy route planning](https://www.savvy-navvy.com/?ref=goodkit.io) - [WhereIsOurBoat remote tracking and anchor monitoring](https://whereisourboat.com/?ref=goodkit.io) - [Digital Yacht NavLink 2 NMEA 2000 gateway at Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/digital-yacht-navlink-2-nmea-2000-to-wifi-gateway-zdignlink?ref=goodkit.io) - [Raspberry Pi kits on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Raspberry+Pi+kit&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [FLIR Scout thermal cameras on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=FLIR+Scout+thermal+camera&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Starlink for boats](https://www.starlink.com/boats?ref=goodkit.io) ### How AI is Changing RV Maintenance and Monitoring URL: https://www.goodkit.io/how-ai-is-changing-rv-maintenance-and-monitoring/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T16:04:16.000Z # How AI is Changing RV Maintenance and Monitoring ## AI in Your RV: Not Science Fiction Anymore A few years ago, "AI in your RV" meant a GPS that could reroute around traffic. Today, it means systems that predict when your water heater is about to fail, cameras that detect tire damage before you notice it, and monitoring platforms that learn your power usage patterns and optimize battery charging automatically. Some of this is genuinely useful. Some of it is marketing fluff. Here is what is actually worth paying attention to. ## Predictive Maintenance This is the biggest practical application of AI in RVs right now. Instead of replacing parts on a schedule or waiting for something to break, AI systems analyze sensor data over time and flag anomalies before they become failures. **What it looks like in practice:** A monitoring system tracks your house battery voltage, charge/discharge cycles, and temperature over weeks. When the pattern shifts -- say, the battery is not holding charge as well at the same temperature -- the system alerts you that the battery is degrading. You replace it on your schedule, not on the side of the road. The same concept applies to: - **Refrigerator compressor health** \-- temperature cycling patterns change before a compressor fails - **Water pump pressure** \-- gradual pressure drops indicate a developing leak or pump wear - **Tire condition** \-- TPMS data trends can predict slow leaks before they become blowouts - **Generator runtime** \-- fuel consumption and output patterns flag maintenance needs This is not theoretical. Victron's VRM platform already does basic trend analysis on battery data. The open-source community has built more sophisticated anomaly detection on top of InfluxDB and Grafana. ## Smart Energy Management RV electrical systems are getting complicated. Solar panels, lithium batteries, shore power, generators, inverters -- managing all of these manually is a full-time hobby. AI can help. **Intelligent load management:** An AI system that knows your power generation (solar yield, shore power availability) and consumption patterns can automatically prioritize loads. Run the air conditioning when solar production peaks. Defer the water heater to off-peak hours. Reduce inverter output when the battery drops below a threshold. **Solar yield prediction:** By combining weather forecast data with your panel configuration and historical production, AI can predict tomorrow's solar yield and adjust today's power budget accordingly. Cloudy day coming? The system charges more aggressively from shore power today. Victron's ESS (Energy Storage System) does some of this already. For DIY builders, [Home Assistant](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/) with the Forecast.Solar integration can approximate it, though the setup is not trivial. ## AI-Powered Cameras and Vision This is where things get interesting -- and where a lot of the hype lives. **What is real today:** - Backup cameras with object detection that warn you about obstacles, people, or pets - Dashcams with lane departure and collision warnings (Garmin, Viofo) - Security cameras with person/vehicle detection for campsite monitoring **What is coming:** - Tire inspection cameras that detect sidewall damage, tread wear, and bulging - Roof inspection drones that identify sealant failures and damage - Automated leveling systems that use terrain analysis The camera hardware is cheap. The AI processing is getting cheap. The main barrier is integration -- nobody has built the "one system that does everything" for RVs yet. ## Voice Control and Natural Language Alexa and Google Home work in RVs if you have internet. But the more interesting development is local voice processing -- systems that do not need cloud connectivity. Projects like Home Assistant's local voice pipeline (using Whisper for speech-to-text and Piper for text-to-speech) run entirely on a Raspberry Pi. "Hey RV, what's my battery at?" gets answered without any data leaving your vehicle. For boondockers with no cell signal, this is the only voice control option that actually works. ## What You Can Set Up Today You do not need to wait for manufacturers to catch up. Here is what you can do now with off-the-shelf hardware and open-source software: 1. **Basic monitoring with trend alerts:** Raspberry Pi + sensors + InfluxDB + Grafana. Set up threshold alerts and watch for trends manually. 2. **Smart energy management:** Victron system + VRM portal. The VRM cloud does basic AI analysis on your battery and solar data for free. 3. **AI dashcam:** Viofo A129 or similar (\~$150) with ADAS features. Not RV-specific but the collision warnings work on any vehicle. 4. **Local voice control:** Home Assistant on a Pi with Wyoming voice satellite. Requires some setup but works without internet. ## The Bottom Line AI in RVs is real and useful -- but mostly at the "smart monitoring and prediction" level, not the "self-driving RV" level. The biggest immediate value is in predictive maintenance and energy management. The hardware is cheap, the software is increasingly accessible, and you do not need to wait for a manufacturer to build it into a $200K motorhome. The best approach: start with sensors and monitoring (the data), then layer intelligence on top. You cannot predict failures if you are not measuring anything. ## Related Articles - [AI Tools for Marine Navigation](https://www.goodkit.io/ai-tools-for-marine-navigation-and-boat-monitoring/) - [Home Assistant + Shelly on 12V DC](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/) - [RV Battery Monitoring: What Actually Works](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/) ## Products and platforms mentioned **Affiliate disclosure:** As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. GoodKit and Dupree Products share common ownership. - [Victron Cerbo GX MK2 at Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-cerbo-gx-mk2-bpp900451100?ref=goodkit.io) - [Victron SmartShunt 500A at Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-smartshunt-500amp-50mv-bluetooth-smart-battery-shunt-shu050150050?ref=goodkit.io) - [Viofo A129 dashcams on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Viofo+A129+dashcam&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Raspberry Pi kits on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Raspberry+Pi+kit&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [RV tire-pressure monitoring systems on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=RV+tire+pressure+monitoring+system&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Home Assistant](https://www.home-assistant.io/?ref=goodkit.io) ### RV Solar System Sizing: How to Calculate What You Need URL: https://www.goodkit.io/rv-solar-system-sizing-how-to-calculate-what-you-need/ Last updated: 2026-07-15T15:31:43.000Z # RV Solar System Sizing: How to Calculate What You Need ## Stop Guessing, Start Calculating The most common mistake in RV solar is buying panels first and figuring out the math later. Solar sizing is straightforward once you understand the four steps: calculate your load, size your battery, size your panels, and choose a charge controller. Work through these in order and you will end up with a system that actually meets your needs. ## Step 1: Calculate Your Daily Power Usage List every electrical device you plan to run on battery power. Multiply the wattage by the hours of daily use to get watt-hours (Wh). Here are common RV loads: | Device | Watts | Hours/Day | Wh/Day | | ----------------------- | ----- | ----------- | ------ | | LED lights (5 fixtures) | 50 | 5 | 250 | | Residential fridge | 150 | 8 (cycling) | 1200 | | Laptop charger | 65 | 4 | 260 | | Phone charger (2x) | 20 | 3 | 60 | | Vent fans (2x) | 30 | 8 | 240 | | Water pump | 60 | 0.5 | 30 | | TV/streaming | 80 | 3 | 240 | **Example total: \~2,280 Wh/day (2.28 kWh)** Add 15% for inverter losses and wiring inefficiency. Adjusted total: \~2,620 Wh/day. ## Step 2: Size Your Battery Bank Your battery bank needs to store enough energy to cover your daily usage with a safety margin. The multiplier depends on battery chemistry: - **Lead-acid (AGM/flooded):** Multiply daily usage by 2x. Lead-acid batteries should not be discharged below 50% regularly. So 2,620 Wh x 2 = 5,240 Wh = \~440 Ah at 12V. - **LiFePO4 (lithium):** Multiply daily usage by 1.25x. LiFePO4 can be discharged to 80-90% depth safely. So 2,620 Wh x 1.25 = 3,275 Wh = \~273 Ah at 12V. LiFePO4 costs more upfront but gives you more usable capacity per pound, more charge cycles, and a flat discharge curve. For full-time RV use, LiFePO4 pays for itself within 2-3 years. ## Step 3: Size Your Solar Panels Solar panels need to replace the energy you use each day. The calculation depends on your location and season. - **Peak sun hours:** Use 4-5 hours for the southern US, 3-4 for the north, 5-6 for the desert southwest. These are averages; winter is lower, summer is higher. - **Panel efficiency:** A 100W panel produces roughly 80W in real-world conditions (heat, angle, dust). - **Charge controller losses:** Budget 10-15% loss through the charge controller. **Formula:** Daily Wh needed / (sun hours x panel efficiency x controller efficiency) = total panel watts needed. **Example:** 2,620 Wh / (4.5 hours x 0.80 x 0.88) = \~828W of panels. Round up to 800-1000W for margin. ## Step 4: Choose a Charge Controller The charge controller sits between your panels and batteries. Two types: ### PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) - Simple, cheap ($20-50) - Works well when panel voltage closely matches battery voltage - Wastes energy when panel voltage is much higher than battery voltage - Fine for small systems under 200W ### MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) - More expensive ($100-400) - Converts excess panel voltage to additional current - 10-30% more efficient than PWM, especially in cold weather or with higher voltage panels - Worth it for any system over 200W MPPT controllers are sized by input voltage and output current. Make sure your controller can handle your panel array voltage and your battery bank charge current. ## Recommended Builds by Budget ### Budget Tier (\~$500) - Renogy 200W panel kit with PWM controller - 100Ah AGM battery - Good for: weekend camping, minimal loads, charging devices [Renogy 200W kit on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VYJ8JXH?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ### Mid Tier (\~$1,500) - 400W of panels (2x 200W rigid or flexible) - Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 - 200Ah LiFePO4 battery - Good for: extended boondocking, running a fridge and electronics [Victron MPPT 100/30 on Amazon](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-smartsolar-mppt-charge-controller-100v-30amp-ul-approved-scc110030210?ref=goodkit.io) ### Premium Tier (\~$3,000+) - 600W+ of panels - Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150/60 - 400Ah LiFePO4 battery bank - 3000W inverter/charger - Good for: full-time living, residential fridge, microwave, A/C assist [Victron MPPT 150/60 on Amazon](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-smartsolar-mppt-150-60-tr-solar-charge-controller-ul-approved-scc115060211?ref=goodkit.io) ## Common Mistakes - **Undersizing batteries:** More panels without enough battery storage means wasted solar production. - **Ignoring inverter losses:** A 2000W inverter running at 20% load is less efficient than a 1000W inverter at 40% load. - **Shade:** One shaded cell can reduce an entire panel string's output by 50-80%. Use microinverters or optimizers if shade is unavoidable. - **Wire gauge:** Undersized wires between panels and controller cause voltage drop and heat. Use a voltage drop calculator and oversize by one gauge. ## Free Tools Sizing wire and fuses correctly is non-negotiable for any electrical work on a boat. We built two free ABYC E-11 calculators for exactly this: - [Marine Wire Gauge Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-wire-gauge-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — sizes any DC wire run for ABYC voltage drop and ampacity requirements - [Marine Fuse Sizing Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-fuse-sizing-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — recommends fuses with proper continuous/motor multipliers and warns if your wire can't safely handle the fuse --- ## More from GoodKit - [Victron vs Renogy](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-vs-renogy-which-solar-setup-is-right-for-your-rv/) - [RV Battery Monitoring](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/) - [Best Mail Forwarding Services for Full-Time RVers](https://www.goodkit.io/best-mail-forwarding-services-for-full-time-rvers-and-cruisers-2026/) ### Best RV Tank Monitoring Sensors (2026) URL: https://www.goodkit.io/best-rv-tank-monitoring-sensors-2026/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T18:21:32.000Z # Best RV Tank Monitoring Sensors (2026) ## The Sensor Landscape in 2026 RV tank sensors have improved significantly in the last few years. Ultrasonic and capacitive sensors have replaced the unreliable resistive probes that plagued RVers for decades. Here are our picks after testing the leading options. ## Best Propane Sensor: Mopeka Pro Check The Mopeka Pro Check (\~$45) uses ultrasonic measurement to read propane levels through the bottom of the tank. It mounts magnetically, runs on a CR2032 battery for about a year, and broadcasts over BLE to the Mopeka app or compatible displays. - Accurate to 5% across the full range - No wiring, no drilling, no contact with propane - Works with standard DOT cylinders and ASME tanks - Battery lasts approximately 12 months [Mopeka Pro Check on Amazon (\~$45)](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/mopeka-pro-check-sensor-f-lpg-w-grease-3-spacers-m1017012?ref=goodkit.io) ## Best Water/Waste Sensor: Mopeka Universal The Mopeka Universal (\~$70) applies the same ultrasonic technology to water and waste tanks. It mounts externally on the bottom of the tank, so there is no contact with tank contents. This eliminates the fouling problem that kills traditional in-tank sensors within a year or two. [Mopeka Universal on Amazon (\~$70)](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/mopeka-pro-check-universal-f-poly-tanks-w-primer-mounting-collar-m1017024?ref=goodkit.io) ## Budget Option: Stock Resistive Senders + ADC If your RV already has working 3-wire resistive tank senders, you can read them directly with a Raspberry Pi and an ADS1115 analog-to-digital converter (\~$4). The ADS1115 reads the voltage from each sender and converts it to a tank level percentage. This is the cheapest path to digital tank monitoring if your existing hardware still works. The downside: resistive senders in waste tanks foul over time. This is a good bridge solution, not a permanent one for black tanks. ## Best Temperature Sensor: Xiaomi LYWSD03MMC At roughly $6 per sensor, the Xiaomi LYWSD03MMC is the best value sensor we have ever tested. Flash it with ATC firmware (free, takes 2 minutes over BLE) and it broadcasts temperature and humidity data as open BLE advertisements that any BLE gateway can pick up. - Temperature accurate to 0.3 degrees C - Humidity accurate to 3% RH - CR2032 battery lasts 6-12 months with ATC firmware - Use for: fridge, freezer, engine room, basement storage, exterior [Xiaomi LYWSD03MMC on Amazon (\~$6)](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=xiaomi+lywsd03mmc+temperature+humidity+sensor&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ## Tire Pressure: Generic BLE TPMS Generic BLE TPMS sensors run about $30 for a set of 4\. They screw onto the valve stem and broadcast pressure and temperature over BLE. Accuracy is acceptable (within 1-2 PSI), and they provide early warning of slow leaks or temperature spikes. Battery life varies by brand but is typically 12-18 months. [BLE TPMS sensors on Amazon (\~$30/set)](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Z2P6M48?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ## Comparison Table | Sensor | Price | Protocol | Battery Life | Accuracy | Best For | | ----------------- | ------- | ------------ | ------------- | ------------ | -------------------------- | | Mopeka Pro Check | \~$45 | BLE | \~12 months | 5% | Propane tanks | | Mopeka Universal | \~$70 | BLE | \~12 months | 5-10% | Water/waste tanks | | ADS1115 + Pi | \~$4 | I2C (wired) | N/A (powered) | Varies | Existing resistive senders | | Xiaomi LYWSD03MMC | \~$6 | BLE (ATC fw) | 6-12 months | 0.3C / 3% RH | Temp/humidity anywhere | | Generic BLE TPMS | \~$30/4 | BLE | 12-18 months | 1-2 PSI | Tire pressure monitoring | ## Integration Note None of these sensors talk to each other natively. Each has its own app. If you want a unified dashboard, you will need a BLE gateway (Raspberry Pi with BlueZ, or an ESP32) that collects all the BLE advertisements and feeds them into a dashboard like Grafana, Home Assistant, or a custom web UI. See our RV Battery Monitoring article for more on integration approaches. --- ## More from GoodKit - [RV Battery Monitoring](https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/) - [Home Assistant + Shelly on 12V DC](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/) ### RV Battery Monitoring: What Actually Works URL: https://www.goodkit.io/rv-battery-monitoring-what-actually-works/ Last updated: 2026-08-14T01:59:33.000Z # RV Battery Monitoring: What Actually Works ## The Fragmentation Problem RV monitoring is a mess. Your propane sensor has one app. Your battery monitor has another. Your tire pressure sensors have a third. Your tank levels might have a fourth, or they might just be a row of LEDs on a panel that reads "1/3, 2/3, Full" and is wrong half the time. There is no single system that does everything well. Every option involves trade-offs between cost, accuracy, integration, and complexity. Here is what actually works, based on building and running these systems in real rigs. ## Option 1: Victron Ecosystem ($750-1100) Victron makes the best battery and solar monitoring hardware available. Their [SmartShunt](https://www.goodkit.io/best-marine-battery-monitor-victron-smartshunt-500a-review/) ($120), MPPT charge controllers ($200-400), and inverters communicate over VE.Direct and VE.Can protocols. The Victron GX device ($250-350) ties it all together with a local dashboard and remote monitoring via VRM. ### What Victron Does Well - Battery state of charge: accurate, reliable, properly calibrated - Solar production monitoring: real-time and historical - Inverter/charger management: full control and logging - Remote monitoring: VRM portal works globally with cell connection ### What Victron Does Not Do - Propane monitoring - Fresh/gray/black tank levels - Tire pressure - Temperature monitoring (fridge, freezer, ambient) Total cost for a basic Victron setup: $750-1100\. Worth it for the battery and solar side. But you still need separate sensors for everything else. [Victron SmartShunt on Amazon](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/victron-smartshunt-500amp-50mv-bluetooth-smart-battery-shunt-shu050150050?ref=goodkit.io) ## Option 2: BLE Sensors (Mix and Match) Bluetooth Low Energy sensors are cheap, battery-powered, and available for almost every measurement you need. The downside: each one has its own app, and nobody has built a unified dashboard that combines them all cleanly. ### Recommended BLE Sensors - **Mopeka Pro Check (\~$45):** Ultrasonic propane [tank sensor](https://www.goodkit.io/best-rv-tank-monitoring-sensors-2026/). Magnetic mount, BLE broadcast, accurate to 5%. Best propane sensor available. - **Xiaomi LYWSD03MMC (\~$6):** Temperature and humidity sensor. Flash with ATC firmware for open BLE broadcasts. Best value sensor in existence. Use for fridge, freezer, engine room, basement storage. - **Generic BLE TPMS (\~$30/set of 4):** Tire pressure monitoring. Basic but functional. Battery life varies. [Mopeka Pro Check on Amazon](https://dupreeproducts.com/products/mopeka-pro-check-sensor-f-lpg-w-grease-3-spacers-m1017012?ref=goodkit.io) ## Option 3: CAN Bus Direct (Pi + PICAN Duo) If you want a single system that reads everything, you can build one. A Raspberry Pi with a PICAN Duo CAN bus hat can read RV-C protocol data directly from your coach's CAN bus network. This gives you access to tank levels, battery data, slide positions, leveling jacks, and any other system that communicates on the bus. The catch: this requires real technical knowledge. You need to understand CAN bus wiring, RV-C DGN numbers, and be comfortable writing Python scripts or configuring open-source dashboards. It is not plug-and-play. ## Practical Recommendations - **Budget build (under $100):** Skip the unified dashboard. Use Mopeka for propane, Xiaomi sensors for temperature, and your existing panel for tanks. - **Mid-range ($300-400):** Add a Victron SmartShunt for battery monitoring and Mopeka sensors for tanks. Run each app separately. - **Full integration ($800-1500+):** Victron for power, Raspberry Pi with CAN hat for coach systems, BLE gateway for sensors, and a custom dashboard (Grafana, [Home Assistant](https://www.goodkit.io/home-assistant-shelly-on-12v-dc-smart-automation-for-rvs-and-boats/), or custom web UI). Plus your time. ## Free Tools Sizing wire and fuses correctly is non-negotiable for any electrical work on a boat. We built two free ABYC E-11 calculators for exactly this: - [Marine Wire Gauge Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-wire-gauge-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — sizes any DC wire run for ABYC voltage drop and ampacity requirements - [Marine Fuse Sizing Calculator](https://www.goodkit.io/marine-fuse-sizing-calculator-abyc-e-11/) — recommends fuses with proper continuous/motor multipliers and warns if your wire can't safely handle the fuse - [How to Wire a Victron SmartShunt](https://www.goodkit.io/how-to-wire-a-victron-smartshunt-step-by-step-install-guide/) — the install that makes the monitor accurate - [Victron Cerbo GX Setup Guide](https://www.goodkit.io/victron-cerbo-gx-setup-guide-from-install-to-remote-monitoring/) — see that shunt data on VRM and your phone ### How to Replace Your RV Waste Valve URL: https://www.goodkit.io/how-to-replace-your-rv-waste-valve/ Last updated: 2026-05-08T14:38:13.000Z # How to Replace Your RV Waste Valve ## Before You Start Replacing an RV waste valve is a straightforward job if you prepare properly. The process differs significantly depending on whether you are replacing a standard gate valve or swapping a Twis-Loc seal. ### Tools Needed - Screwdriver (Phillips and flat) - Channel-lock pliers - Replacement valve or seal - Sewer-rated silicone lubricant - Bucket and towels (trust us) - Nitrile gloves - Pipe thread sealant (for gate valve replacement only) ## Preparation 1. Dump and flush your tanks completely. Run clean water through the system until it runs clear. 2. Close all valves and disconnect from the sewer connection. 3. Place a bucket under the valve area. There will be residual water. 4. Put on gloves. This is non-negotiable. ## Gate Valve Replacement Replacing a standard gate valve requires disconnecting the plumbing on both sides of the valve body. This is the more involved procedure. 1. Support the pipe on both sides of the valve to prevent stress on the plumbing. 2. Loosen the fittings on both sides of the valve. If they are cemented ABS, you will need to cut the pipe. 3. Remove the old valve body. 4. Clean the pipe ends thoroughly. 5. Apply pipe thread sealant or ABS cement to the new valve connections. 6. Install the new valve, ensuring the handle orientation allows full operation. 7. Allow cement to cure per manufacturer instructions before using. 8. Test with clean water before connecting to the sewer. **Important:** Do not overtighten plastic fittings. Plastic threads crack easily. Hand-tight plus a quarter turn is usually sufficient. ## Twis-Loc Seal Replacement This is the easy one. If you already have a Twis-Loc valve body installed, replacing the seal takes about 5 minutes. 1. Open the valve fully. 2. Remove the 2 screws holding the top cap. 3. Pull the old seal straight out. 4. Apply a thin coat of sewer-rated silicone lubricant to the new seal. 5. Drop the new seal in with the hole aligned to the open position. 6. Replace the top cap and screws. 7. Cycle the valve a few times to seat the seal. That is it. No plumbing disconnection, no pipe wrenches, no mess. Five minutes and done. [Replacement Twis-Loc seal - $24.99 at Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/collections/all-valves?ref=goodkit.io) ## Upgrading to Pneumatic If you want remote-operated valves, the Twis-Loc can be fitted with a pneumatic actuator. This gives you push-button control from inside the coach. The actuator bolts onto the existing valve body, so no plumbing changes are needed. ## Maintenance Tips - **Lubricate annually:** Apply sewer-rated silicone to valve seals once a year. - **Replace proactively:** Do not wait for a valve to fail. Replace gate valves every 3 years and Twis-Loc seals every 5-7 years as preventive maintenance. - **Use enzyme treatments:** Monthly enzyme treatments keep waste from building up on valve surfaces and extend valve life. - **Never force a stuck valve:** If a gate valve is stuck, apply lubricant and work it gently. Forcing it can crack the valve body or break the handle. ### RV Waste Valves: Why the Twis-Loc Outlasts Everything Else URL: https://www.goodkit.io/rv-waste-valves-why-the-twis-loc-outlasts-everything-else/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:47:29.000Z # RV Waste Valves: Why the Twis-Loc Outlasts Everything Else ## The Disposable Valve Problem Every RV waste valve is a gate valve -- a flat blade that slides across the pipe to open and close the flow. The Twis-Loc is a gate valve. The Valterra is a gate valve. They all work the same basic way. The difference is not the mechanism. It is what happens when the seal wears out. ## Most Waste Valves Are Disposable The typical RV waste valve from Valterra or similar costs $15-40\. When the seal wears, the blade sticks, or it starts leaking -- and it will, usually within 2-5 years -- you throw the entire valve away and install a new one. That means: - Disconnecting the plumbing on both sides of the valve - Removing the old valve body - Cleaning fittings, re-taping threads - Installing the new valve and testing for leaks - On some rigs, this means dropping the entire tank It is a 1-3 hour job depending on access, and it is one of the least pleasant maintenance tasks on an RV. Most people put it off until the valve is actively leaking on the ground. ## The Twis-Loc: Built to Be Maintained, Not Replaced The Twis-Loc valve (originally the Owens Valve, designed in 1964) takes a completely different approach. The valve body is permanent. When the seal wears out -- and eventually any seal will -- you do not replace the valve. You replace just the seal. The process takes about five minutes: 1. Remove two screws from the top cap 2. Pull out the old seal 3. Drop in the new seal ($25) 4. Put the two screws back in No plumbing disconnection. No pipe wrenches. No Teflon tape. No tank dropping. The valve body stays connected to your waste system the entire time. ## 50 Years and Counting This is not theoretical. There are motorhomes from the 1970s still running their original Twis-Loc valve bodies. Airstream, Newell, Blue Bird, SilverStreak -- these manufacturers installed Twis-Loc valves from the factory because they knew the coaches would outlast any disposable valve. The valve body is the same one that was installed 50 years ago. The only thing that gets replaced is the rubber seal, and that is a five-minute job with a $25 part. Think about that compared to throwing away and reinstalling a complete valve every 3-4 years. ## Cost Over Time | Over 10 Years | Disposable Valve | Twis-Loc | | ---------------------- | -------------------------- | ----------------------- | | Parts cost | $60-120 (2-3 replacements) | $25-50 (1-2 seal swaps) | | Labor time | 3-9 hours total | 10 minutes total | | Plumbing disconnection | Every time | Never | | Risk of fitting damage | Every replacement | None | ## Pneumatic Option The Twis-Loc also comes in a pneumatic version ($195) that adds an air cylinder to the same valve body. Press a button inside the RV and the valve opens/closes -- no reaching under the coach. You need an air supply (12V compressor or existing air system) and a solenoid ($65-75). Same maintainability -- the seal swap is the same two-screw process whether you have the manual or pneumatic version. ## The Bottom Line The question is simple: disposable or maintainable? Do you want to throw away and replumb the entire valve every few years, or do you want to drop in a $25 seal in five minutes and keep the same valve body for decades? If you are replacing a waste valve anyway, the Twis-Loc is worth the slightly higher upfront cost. And if you already have one, keep a spare seal on hand. It is the easiest maintenance job on your RV. [Check Twis-Loc valve prices at Dupree Products](https://dupreeproducts.com/collections/all-valves?ref=goodkit.io) The verdict Outlasts the motorhome. durability10 / 10 seal9 / 10 value8 / 10 ### Torin 581T Magna Caddy Hex Bit Organizer URL: https://www.goodkit.io/torin-581t-magna-caddy-hex-bit-organizer/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:47:37.000Z # Torin 581T Magna Caddy Hex Bit Organizer ## The Concept The Magna Caddy uses neodymium magnets to hold hex bits in an organized grid. The idea is great: pop your bits onto the magnetic surface, see them all at a glance, grab the one you need. No more digging through a plastic case or a loose pile of bits in a drawer. ## What Works The base magnets are strong neodymium rare-earth magnets. They hold the organizer to any steel surface firmly. Stick it to a toolbox lid, a workbench leg, or a steel shelf and it stays put. This is the best part of the product. [Check price on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=torin+581t+magna+caddy+hex+bit+organizer&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ## What Does Not Work The bit-holding sheet magnets are weak. Individual bits sit on the surface and stay put if the organizer is flat or mounted vertically on a smooth surface. But if you bump it or flip it, bits can fall out. The holding force on each bit is just not strong enough for a portable application. This is a significant limitation for a tool kit. If the organizer is inside a bag that gets tossed in a truck, you will open it to find bits scattered everywhere. That defeats the entire purpose. ## The Verdict For stationary use on a workbench or inside a toolbox that stays flat, the Magna Caddy works well. The visual organization is genuinely useful. But for a portable kit, the weak bit-holding magnets are a dealbreaker. Neodymium base magnets: good. Bit-holding magnets: weak. Good stationary, risky for transport. This product would be significantly better with stronger individual magnets and a larger form factor. The concept is right; the execution needs work. The verdict Great concept, rough execution. concept8 / 10 hold6 / 10 build5 / 10 ### General Tools 14 Piece Quad Saw/Driver URL: https://www.goodkit.io/general-tools-14-piece-quad-saw-driver/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:47:36.000Z # General Tools 14 Piece Quad Saw/Driver ## The Problem with Hacksaws A standard hacksaw is bulky. The frame takes up a disproportionate amount of space in a portable kit relative to how often you actually use it. But when you need a saw, you need a saw. The General Tools Quad Saw/Driver is a compact alternative that earns its place at under $20. ## What You Get The kit includes 3 saw blades (wood, metal, and drywall), a magnetic bit holder, and assorted driver bits. The handle rotates 360 degrees for confined-space work, and the whole thing fits in a belt holster. Under $20. [Check price on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=general+tools+quad+saw+driver&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ## Multi-Function Done Right - **Hacksaw replacement:** The metal-cutting blade handles conduit, small pipe, threaded rod, and bolts. It is slower than a full hacksaw but takes up a fraction of the space. - **Right-angle driver:** The rotating handle lets you drive screws in tight spaces where a straight screwdriver cannot reach. Not a replacement for a proper right-angle attachment, but useful in a pinch. - **Drywall saw:** The drywall blade cuts outlet boxes and small openings cleanly. - **Wood saw:** Light-duty wood cutting for shims, trim, and small cuts. ## Limitations This is not a replacement for a proper reciprocating saw or a full-size hacksaw for heavy work. The blades are short, the handle provides limited leverage, and sustained cutting in thick metal will tire your hand. It is a portable multi-tool that handles light cutting tasks well within its design envelope. The rotating handle for confined spaces is what really sets it apart from just carrying a spare hacksaw blade. The verdict A hacksaw that fits a holster. versatility8 / 10 portability9 / 10 value7 / 10 ### High Speed Screwdrivers URL: https://www.goodkit.io/high-speed-screwdrivers/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:47:45.000Z # High Speed Screwdrivers ## The Case for Speed Ratcheting screwdrivers let you drive screws faster by eliminating the need to reposition your hand after each turn. High-speed variants take this further with gear ratios that multiply your input, driving screws in fewer wrist motions. ## The Contenders ### SpecTools Overdriver - $35 The Overdriver uses a 4:1 gear ratio. Four turns of the handle produce one full revolution of the bit. This sounds counterintuitive, but the result is that you can drive screws with short, fast wrist flicks rather than full rotations. For repetitive work like electrical plates or cabinet hardware, the speed improvement is significant. Build quality is excellent. The body is solid aluminum, the gear mechanism is smooth, and it accepts standard 1/4-inch hex bits. At $35, this is the premium option and the one to get if you drive a lot of screws by hand. [Check SpecTools Overdriver on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=spectools+overdriver+screwdriver&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ### Stanley FMHT 69236 - Under $20 Stanley's ratcheting screwdriver is a solid budget alternative. It lacks the gear multiplication of the Overdriver, relying instead on a standard ratcheting mechanism. But the ratchet action is smooth, the bit storage in the handle is convenient, and the price is right. For most home users, this is all you need. [Check Stanley FMHT on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=stanley+fmht+ratcheting+screwdriver&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ### Craftsman 4x Speed Craftsman offers a similar gear-ratio approach to the Overdriver at a lower price point. The mechanism works, though the build quality is a step below the SpecTools. If you want the speed multiplier without the premium price, it is a viable option. ## Which One? For most people, the Stanley under $20 is the right call. Both the Stanley and the Overdriver are solid picks. If you drive screws by hand frequently and want the speed multiplier, the Overdriver at $35 is worth the investment. The Craftsman sits in the middle but does not stand out in either direction. The verdict Stanley for most; Overdriver for volume. everydayStanley speedOverdriver valueStanley ### Estwing E3-16C Claw Hammer URL: https://www.goodkit.io/estwing-e3-16c-claw-hammer/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:48:32.000Z # Estwing E3-16C Claw Hammer ## One Piece, No Compromise The Estwing E3-16C is forged from a single piece of American steel. There is no handle to loosen, no joint to fail, no wood to split. The head and handle are one continuous piece of metal. This hammer will outlast you. ## Why 16 oz For a general-purpose portable kit, 16 ounces is the right weight. It drives finish nails and picture hangers without overkill, handles light framing, and pulls nails with the curved claw. It is heavy enough to be useful and light enough to carry all day. If you are doing serious framing or decking work, get a 22 oz hammer for that specific job. But do not put a 22 oz hammer in a portable kit. You will regret the weight. The 16 oz is too light for real framing, but perfect for general use -- and that is exactly what a portable kit is for. [Check price on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IOXN2HI?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ## The Estwing Reputation Estwing has been making hammers in Rockford, Illinois since 1923\. The E3-16C is their most popular model for good reason. The shock reduction grip absorbs vibration, the balance is excellent, and the claw geometry pulls nails cleanly without bending them. ## At $20, This Is a No-Brainer You can spend less on a hammer. You will replace it. You can spend more on a hammer. You will not get meaningfully better performance for general-purpose work. The Estwing E3-16C sits at the intersection of quality, value, and durability that is hard to beat at any price. The verdict Outlasts everything in the kit. durability10 / 10 balance9 / 10 value10 / 10 ### Damaged Screw Extractor / Remover URL: https://www.goodkit.io/damaged-screw-extractor-remover/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:47:35.000Z # Damaged Screw Extractor / Remover ## You Will Strip Screws It happens 5-10% of the time, more often with old hardware and cheap fasteners. Stripped screws are not a matter of if but when. Having an extractor set in your kit means the difference between a 30-second fix and a 30-minute ordeal involving drill bits, vice grips, and creative profanity. Every pencil needs an eraser. Every kit needs an extractor. ## How They Work Screw extractors have a reverse-threaded, hardened tip. You press the extractor into the stripped screw head, apply downward pressure, and turn counterclockwise. The reverse threads bite into the damaged head and back the screw out. Simple, effective, and satisfying. ## What to Buy A 4-piece set covers screws from #4 through 3/8 inch. That handles virtually everything you will encounter in residential and light commercial work. Ditch the plastic case that comes with the set. All four extractors fit in a pocket or a small pouch in your tool bag. [Check screw extractor sets on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=damaged+screw+extractor+remover+set&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ### Quality Matters Here Cheap extractors are made from soft steel. They work on brass and aluminum fasteners but strip out on hardened screws -- which are exactly the fasteners most likely to be stuck and stripped in the first place. Buy a set made from S2 or CR-V steel. The price difference is a few dollars. The performance difference is enormous. ## Tips - Apply firm downward pressure before turning. The extractor needs to seat. - Go slow. Speed is the enemy of extraction. - If the screw is really stuck, apply penetrating oil and wait 10 minutes. - For very small screws, a rubber band between the screwdriver and the screw head can provide enough grip without an extractor. The verdict The bail-out for stripped screws. effectiveness8 / 10 ease7 / 10 value9 / 10 ### Knipex High Leverage Diagonal Cutters (8") URL: https://www.goodkit.io/knipex-high-leverage-diagonal-cutters-8/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:47:26.000Z # Knipex High Leverage Diagonal Cutters (8") ## Why Knipex Cheap diagonal cutters work fine on copper wire and zip ties. The moment you hit a hardened nail, a piece of piano wire, or ACSR cable, cheap cutters either fail to cut or the jaws chip. Then you buy another pair. And another. The Knipex 8-inch high leverage diagonal cutters are $35\. They are made from chrome vanadium electric steel, hardened to handle materials that destroy lesser tools. You buy them once. ## What They Cut - **Hardened nails:** Clean cuts, no jaw damage. - **Piano wire:** Cuts without the wire slipping or the jaws spreading. - **ACSR cable:** Aluminum conductor steel-reinforced cable. Most cutters cannot touch this. - **Standard copper wire:** Obviously. Up to 0 AWG with effort. - **Zip ties, cable sheathing, romex:** Effortless. [Check price on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YYMEE?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ## The High Leverage Design The pivot point is positioned closer to the cutting edge than standard diagonal cutters. This gives you roughly 20% more cutting force with the same hand effort. For all-day use or tough materials, that difference adds up. ## For DIYers You might think $35 cutters are overkill for home use. They are not. Even if you only use them a few times a year, you will never have to replace them, and they will cut everything you throw at them without hesitation. That is worth more than saving $15 on a pair you will replace in two years. The verdict Cuts what others won’t. cutting power10 / 10 build9 / 10 value8 / 10 ### Self Adjusting Wire Stripper URL: https://www.goodkit.io/self-adjusting-wire-stripper/ Last updated: 2026-05-08T14:38:11.000Z # Self Adjusting Wire Stripper ## Why Self-Adjusting? Traditional wire strippers require you to match the wire gauge to the correct notch. Get it wrong and you nick the conductor or do not cut through the insulation. Self-adjusting strippers eliminate this problem. They clamp down and strip cleanly regardless of wire gauge, typically handling 10-24 AWG without any adjustment. There is an ease and elegance to a self-adjusting stripper that makes the traditional kind feel primitive. Squeeze, strip, done. No fumbling for the right notch. ## The $15-20 Sweet Spot There are dozens of self-adjusting strippers on Amazon in the $15-20 range. Most of them are functionally identical. They use the same spring-loaded jaw mechanism, strip the same gauge range, and feel similar in the hand. For occasional use and home wiring projects, any of the well-reviewed options in this price range will work fine. [Check self-adjusting wire strippers on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=self+adjusting+wire+stripper&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ### The Klein Upgrade Klein makes a self-adjusting stripper in the $25-35 range that adds a wire cutter and crimper to the same tool. If you do electrical work regularly, the Klein is worth the premium. The spring is stronger, the jaws are more precise, and it does three jobs instead of one. But most people do not need the premium option. If you strip wire a few times a year, save the money and grab whatever well-reviewed model is in the $15-20 range. [Check Klein wire strippers on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=klein+self+adjusting+wire+stripper&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ## What to Look For - **Gauge range:** Make sure it covers at least 10-24 AWG. - **Spring tension:** Too weak and it will not cut through thicker insulation. Too strong and it crushes fine wire. - **Lock mechanism:** A lock keeps the jaws closed for storage. Essential for a portable kit. - **Comfort:** Padded handles matter if you are stripping more than a few wires. ### Cost Effective VETO Killer? URL: https://www.goodkit.io/cost-effective-veto-killer/ Last updated: 2026-08-09T20:47:38.000Z # Cost Effective VETO Killer? ## The Question The VETO PRO PAC OT-XL is $220\. It is an exceptional tool bag. But $220 is a lot of money for a bag, and the obvious question is: can you get 90% of the functionality for half the price? We tested three bags head-to-head. ## The Contenders ### CLC Custom Leathercraft Pouch - $40 23 pockets, solid stitching, heavy-duty fabric. At $40, this is the entry-level option that actually works. The pockets are well-sized for hand tools, and the bag stands up on its own. The limitation is capacity. With 23 pockets vs. the VETO's 40, you run out of organized space quickly. [Check CLC price on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=custom+leathercraft+maintenance+tool+pouch&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ### Klein Tradesman Pro - $75 40 pockets, 1680D ballistic nylon, molded bottom. Klein split the difference on price and came close on features. The pocket layout is thoughtful, the bag is rigid enough to stay open while you work, and the bottom will not wear through on concrete. This is the strongest value in the comparison. [Check Klein price on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=klein+tradesman+pro+organizer+tote&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ### VETO PRO PAC OT-XL - $220 40 pockets, vertical tool storage, waterproof base, lifetime warranty (limited). The VETO is overbuilt in the best way. Vertical storage means you can see every tool at a glance. The construction quality is noticeably above the Klein, and the warranty backs it up. [Check VETO price on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VKSAQK?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ## The Verdict Are any of these VETO killers? No. Comparing the CLC to the VETO is like comparing a Ford Focus to a Lamborghini -- they are in entirely different classes. The Klein Tradesman Pro is the best value and will serve most people well, but the VETO's vertical organization and build quality are in a different league. If your tools earn you money, buy the VETO. If this is a home kit, the Klein is the smart pick. The verdict Budget bag that punches up. capacity8 / 10 build7 / 10 value9 / 10 ### Premium P80 Tool List URL: https://www.goodkit.io/premium-p80-tool-list/ Last updated: 2026-08-13T16:04:14.000Z ## The P80 Philosophy The P80 is a curated tool kit designed around one principle: 80% coverage. These are the tools that handle the vast majority of repair, installation, and maintenance tasks you will actually encounter. No redundancy, no filler, no "might need it someday" items. Total cost is around $800\. Every item was selected for quality, portability, and versatility. Here is the full list. ## The Complete Kit | Tool | Price | Notes | | ------------------------------ | ----- | ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | VETO PRO PAC OT-XL | $220 | The bag that organizes everything. 40 pockets, vertical storage, bombproof construction. | | Wera Kraftform Screwdriver Set | $45 | Laser-tip grip, comfortable handles, covers Phillips, flat, and Torx. | | Estwing E3-16C Hammer | $72 | 16 oz, one-piece forged steel. Lifetime tool. | | Channellock Pliers Set | $66 | 430 and 440 tongue-and-groove. Made in USA, lifetime warranty. | | Klein Side Cutters | $30 | Flush cut, hardened steel. Essential for electrical work. | | CH Hanson Stud Finder | $9 | Magnetic, no batteries. Works every time. | | Milwaukee Utility Knife | $11 | Quick-change blade, solid lock, belt clip. | | Stanley PowerLock Tape Measure | $10 | 25 ft, wide blade for standout. The standard for a reason. | | Craftsman Combination Wrenches | $17 | SAE and metric set. Chrome vanadium, 12-point. | | Makita 12V Drill/Driver | $129 | Compact, lightweight, enough torque for 95% of tasks. | | Swanson Torpedo Level | $22 | 9-inch, magnetic, V-groove for pipes. Fits in the bag. | | Maglite LED Flashlight | $20 | Compact, durable, adjustable beam. Runs on AAs. | | Victor VC97 Multimeter | $14 | Auto-ranging, measures voltage, current, resistance, continuity. | ## Why These Specific Tools Every tool on this list was chosen because it does its job reliably, fits in the bag, and will not need replacing. The VETO bag is the most expensive single item, but it is the backbone of the kit. Without good organization, tools become a pile of metal in a duffel bag. The Makita 12V drill is intentionally compact. A full-size 18V drill does not fit well in a portable kit, and the 12V handles drywall screws, cabinet hardware, and light drilling without issue. ## What Is Not on the List No socket set is listed here because that depends heavily on your specific use case. See our **socket rail article** for recommendations. No specialty electrical tools either. This is the general-purpose core. Build on it as your needs demand. One tool we tried that did not make the cut: our [Wera Joker review](https://www.goodkit.io/wera-joker-wrench-set-review-great-idea-disappointing-in-practice/) — a clever self-setting design that disappointed in practice. ## Shop the P80 kit **Affiliate disclosure:** As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - [VETO PRO PAC OT-XL](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=VETO+PRO+PAC+OT-XL&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Wera Kraftform screwdriver set](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Wera+Kraftform+screwdriver+set&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Estwing E3-16C hammer](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IOXN2HI?tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Channellock pliers set](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Channellock+pliers+set+430+440&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Klein side cutters](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Klein+9+inch+side+cutters&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [CH Hanson magnetic stud finder](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=CH+Hanson+magnetic+stud+finder&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Milwaukee Fastback utility knife](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Milwaukee+Fastback+utility+knife&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Stanley PowerLock 25-foot tape measure](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Stanley+PowerLock+25+foot+tape+measure&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Craftsman SAE and metric combination wrench set](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Craftsman+combination+wrench+set+SAE+metric&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Makita 12V drill/driver kit](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Makita+12V+drill+driver+kit&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Swanson magnetic torpedo level](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Swanson+magnetic+torpedo+level&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Maglite Mini LED flashlight](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Maglite+Mini+LED+flashlight&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) - [Victor VC97 multimeter](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Victor+VC97+multimeter&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ### The P80 Socket Rail URL: https://www.goodkit.io/the-p80-socket-rail/ Last updated: 2026-05-08T14:38:06.000Z ## Stop Losing Sockets If you carry sockets loose in a bag or a drawer, you already know the problem. They rattle around, you can never find the size you need, and inevitably the one you want is the one that rolled under the workbench three weeks ago. Socket rails solve this permanently. They keep every socket visible, organized by size, and locked in place so nothing moves during transport. For a portable tool kit, this is non-negotiable. ## The Options ### Magnetic Rails Magnetic socket rails look great on a wall. In a portable kit, they add unnecessary weight. The magnets are strong enough to hold sockets stationary, but the rail itself is a heavy steel bar. Pass. ### Chrome Clip Rails (Budget Pick) Harbor Freight sells chrome clip rails for under $5\. They work. The spring clips hold sockets firmly, they release with a thumb push, and they weigh almost nothing. For 1/4" and 3/8" drive sockets, these are all you need. [Check price on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=socket+rail+organizer&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ### Twist Lock Socket Rails (Recommended) For under $30, twist lock rails give you a more secure hold. Each clip twists to lock the socket in place, which means nothing comes loose even if your bag gets thrown around. If you work out of a truck or travel with your kit, these are worth the upgrade. [Check price on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=twist+lock+socket+rail&tag=goodkit08-20&ref=goodkit.io) ## Bottom Line Every portable kit needs socket rails. Start with the Harbor Freight chrome clips if you are on a budget. Upgrade to twist lock if your kit sees hard use. Skip the magnetic rails entirely for portable applications.